Faults:

Exhaust and muffler rusted after 7 years - replaced.

False OBD/engine light illumination caused by loose sensor connector - refitted by the dealer at no cost.

Coolant system is very touchy, and requires an annual flush to run smoothly.

'Twaomp' noise from the wheels, replaced bearings, brake pads and rotors, but the noise is still there. Does not effect performance or the vehicle.

Recently, the vehicle misfired whist travelling at freeway speed. It felt as though I'd just driven over a speed bump at 100km/h, although the road was clean and level. The car continued a further 2 or 3 km before doing the same thing. Concurrently the tacho started jumping erratically, and even red lining, all while the vehicle was barely ticking over 3,000 RPM. The car then proceeded to stall, and I lost control of the power steering.

The car was able to restart, but the RAC advised it was best to have a tow back to a repairer.

The mechanic checked the OBD with a scan tool, and a series of faults, including misfire and ignition problems, were identified. On their advice, I replaced the crank angle sensor and the cam sensor.

After about 2 hour of idling in the workshop, I was informed that the mechanics could not make the vehicle 'fault' to replicate the previous issue, and that it performed well on the test drive.

I drove out of the workshop with no problems, and the repairs certainly fixed the issue with the tachometer.

A few days later, whist driving on the freeway in wet, cold conditions, the car's temperature was fluctuating between warm and hot. As soon as it reached about 98 degrees, it would drop down to warm again. This continued for about 20 minutes. Then, in almost the same way as before, I lost power on the throttle; it rev'ed but would not pick up speed. I'm travelling at 100km with my foot on the accelerator getting minimal response. The gearbox would not shift down gears as the car slowed past 50km/h or even at 30km/h. The engine just cut out in top gear, and I lost power steering at about about 30km/h. There was no problem restarting the engine, but the problem persisted and the engine light illuminated. I continued to drive, pulling over every 5 minutes to let the car rest and cool down.

It seems to happen when I'm travelling a distance further than 10 minutes from home.

Since then I have put the car in the naughty corner, and started catching the bus.

I don't know what to do now. I'm thinking that it could be a fuel injector problem or a vacuum leak, but aside from that - I'm out of answers. Do you have any ideas?

General Comments:

Remember, this is the good 4 cylinder 2.2 ecoline engine with auto transmission.

Handles extremely well.

Excellent 'pick-up' on the throttle, with power delivered instantaneously.

Suspension is brilliant - can hardly feel speed bumps or rough roads.

Interior controls are well placed.

Good fuel economy.

Faults:

The car has since last year, several times had the engine cut out whilst driving at 60-70km hour in traffic, which is extremely frightening and deadly. No acceleration, and no steering. I have had the car serviced regularly, and the mechanic cannot find the problem!!!

The coolant hose system split, dumping a complete reservoir of coolant all throughout the engine, and immediate overheating of the engine, requiring the full main coolant hose system to be replaced. Coolant hose system they call 'an octopus'. Complete removal of the engine is required to remove, replace and fit the hose system. Hose unit itself costs over $650. All up, including labour, almost $1,000.

Remote central locking no longer works, so use the key, however central locking on the rear doors is also intermittent if at all.

General Comments:

With no accountability being acknowledged by Holden for the engine cut, or recall to replace, or advice to resolve the issue. I am driving a death trap, which I cannot wait to get rid of!!!