2001 Chevrolet Blazer LS 4.1
Summary:
High maintenance cost vehicle
Faults:
At 18,000 throttle cable vibrated/rubbed on the engine sending a noise that came from the dash behind the speedometer. Dealer re-routed the cable and used plastic ties to keep it in place.
At 32,000 replaced the Right Wheel Hub/bearing assembly. ($500.00)
At 37,00 replace the Left Wheel Hub/bearing assembly. ($500.00)
At 45,000 replaced both exhaust back flow valves, exhaust air pump, Solenoid/vacuum switch and back-flow valve. ( (Service Engine Light with emission error code when read) ($500.00)
At 55,000 replaced Fuel Pump (loud hum/ buzz). It still ran, but sounded terrible. ($300.00)
At 60,000 replace the Idler Arm, Pitman Arm, both Lower Ball Joints. (So it could be aligned) ($900.00)
General Comments:
This vehicle is high maintenance!
The wheel bearing failure requiring front wheel hub assembly replacement is a known problem by GM according to my service Tech. and they usually fail just out of warranty. GM will not stand behind them and the customer ends up with the $1,000 replacement costs. I was told it a common problem, but there is no GM campaign to address replacing the poor quality troubled bearing assemblies.
Replacement of the Exhaust Air Pump and cause is a real joke at another $500.00 out of pocket. You will get a Service Engine Light, the vehicle will run fine, when the Tech reads the error code causing the Engine Service Light to come on it will be an emission error code (Air Pump). All this air pump does is blow air into the exhaust manifold on a cold start-up so that the emision sensor sees a lower exhaust emison going into the Catalytic Converter. There are back flow valves off the manifold that are supposed to prevent exhaust from getting to the electric air pump motor, but they go bad and exhaust and moisture get to the pump and ruin it, so replace the valves too. Also they tell you to extend the piece of hose they use for the air inlet to prevent condensation also getting in the electric air pump. The have the computer richening the fuel mixture on a cold start-up, then they put an air pump on to lean the emissions, what a terrible system that is made for failure at later customer cost.
Fuel Pump replacement is costly, the pump itself and due to GM putting it inside the gas tank the labor costs are also high. Quality pump and replacement $400.00 to $500.00.
To keep the front-end in alignment is also costly. It seems the ball jont's, especially the lower ones usually need replaced and I was told the Idler and Pitman Arms are a know problem you can count on having to replace. Mine cost me (935.00) at 60,000 miles.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Don't Know
Review Date: 20th July, 2006
30th Aug 2006, 00:14
I was lucky enough to find a local "Mechanic", a Chevy enthusiast, to take care of my Blazer. While I'm not making a comment on "Dealers"; with each incident I've had with my Blazer I've called local dealers to get quotes on the identical repair. The results to date? My expenses on repairs have tallied less that 1/3 of the cost of having them done at the "Dealer".
Does my mechanic warranty his work? Not in writing, but in a handshake. I've had to return one time with the work done. He refused to take a penny. Whatever that cost him has been returned a hundred times in word of mouth.
Though I've had some issues to contend with on my Blazer (2001 bought very used), I don't consider expenses extraordinary by stretch. Total: about $600. About $1950 at Dealer.
My AC quit less than two hundred yards from my mechanic's car sales lot (where I bought the Blazer). He doesn't do AC, but he knew what it was. I drove up to Auto Zone, bought a $21 piece. My mechanic put it in; Good to Go. No Charge.
My point? It isn't all about the vehicle. Things break. Things wear out. Sometimes they're expensive and we crack our wallets and sometimes dive into our savings. Sometimes they're not expensive, but we crack our wallets and dive into our savings anyway.
Once in a while, if you're lucky enough to connect with a good automotive mechanic that isn't... pressured... you can get through fair and square.
It isn't always the vehicle.
Just my opinion.