Faults:

Rear window separating completely from top (lower seal).

"Massive" radiator leak.

Flooding on floorboards (caused the amp to blow, along with the front 4 speakers).

General Comments:

This might be the best looking car under $30,000 on the road. If kept clean, it rivals anything BMW, Mercedes-Benz, or Jaguar produce. With the top down, it is beautiful. Long before I owned one, or even considered owning one, my head would always turn when one went by. I think sebring convertibles are a work of art (especially the 1st generation models).

I think they are as mechanically sound as other cars in their price range. Not perfect, but standard for American cars of their era. I've had no MAJOR problems with it. And as far as maintenance, if you Sebring owners think it is expensive, try on a '99 Maxima. You will pay double for the same job.

As a rule, the first thing to go in a car I buy is the factory stereo. So no comment on that. Everything else in the interior is better than average, as long as you do not abuse it.

The top can be a frustrating matter, but ALL convertible tops are a headache waiting to happen. The Sebring top actually held up better than my wife's Audi cabriolet of the same year, even though the Audi's base price is virtually double the Sebring's. It's the price you pay for owning a convertible.

Sure, you will not be winning many drag races with a Sebring, but it is peppy enough. With 168 horses, it isn't lacking power in my opinion. My Maxima (210+ horsepower) was not much better performance-wise. And maybe it's just mine, but my Sebring has a purr to it. Not loud or distracting, but a pleasant whirr that sounds like the car is enjoying itself. Maybe it's the Mitsubishi influence on the car's design. Or maybe I'm crazy.

To sum it up, STOP ABUSING YOUR CARS!! The Sebring will operate fine, and be pretty doing it, for many years if you treat it right. Even a million-dollar Rolls-Royce can only take so much punishment.

Faults:

Lets see Dash/tack not lighting up, Stereo problems, Roof leaks, door panels fill with water, brake rotors, alternator, battery and wheel bearing.

General Comments:

Even though I have had to do some work on it (under-$1000 because I do all my own work) I LOVE the car. think of it though I have put on over 180,00 since I have gotten it and you still cannot hear that engine run. I change the oil and do what needs to be done every 3000-5000 miles. I put in a timing belt 50,000 ago and she's great. I would buy another seabring in a minute she has been great. As long as you take care of it they will last along time.

General Comments:

It is hard to believe I own the same car as the rest of you! Only major repair had at 100k was a fuel pump... most cars need 2 by then. Not anything since. Your problems and huge repair costs are the fault of your poor service facility choices! (example...all gauge and light problems are solder joints in dash assembly... guy in Tampa FL sells redone dash for $50.00 on ebay with a 1 yr warranty... you pay $900 for same fix... stop letting dealer greed bankrupt you!) I don't care what you drive you have to replace brakes... just make wiser choices... any repair shop wants to change everything everytime...if you agree why shouldn't they... bigger profits! Don't let them SUCKER you and blame the car!!!

Faults:

My horn and cruise control stoped working at 75,000 miles.

Had to replace the top at 103,000 miles.

General Comments:

Considering this car has so many problems and faults, it is a fun car to drive when it is not being fixed.

I have another problem with the brakes. When you are on the highway and you have to apply the brakes quickly, the brake pedal gets stiff and it doesn't want to go down. If you keep the pressure on the pedal, the brakes work, but it throws the steering off a little bit. Only when you slow down to around 25 miles per hour does the brake pedal go down to its normal operating position, and the brakes work fine after that.

Has any one else experienced this problem on their car? Please reply.