Best bang for the buck
Nothing except I had to get the air control valve lifted once...
The car is great, best bang for the buck that's available.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 18th January, 2001
Great car for the money!
We have recently received 2 recall notices for the E-brake and intake manifold.
Paint job had quite a few blemishes, but the dealer fixed them without any trouble.
It has completely shut down on me 3 times after getting on the throttle pretty hard.
Overall we have been very pleased. It's a great looking car that turns heads everywhere we go(performance red) and once you figure out the right take off rpm, WOW does this pony fly!
Tip for anyone that never wants to get beat by a Z28 - START OUT IN 2nd GEAR! The car has more than enough torque!
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 12th January, 2001
To GET BEAT by a Z28 you should start out in 2nd gear? How does that make sense? Why wouldn't you start in 1st gear? More torque in first gear. Maybe you meant TO BEAT a z28 start in 2nd???
Anyways, start in whatever gear you want, you'll still lose.
Actually starting in second gear may just work. It is a question of the shape of the torque band and the ratio of the gearing. With a broad torque range, a high red line RPM (which the 4.6 OHC engine has) and a relatively short 2nd gear (or drive ratio), it may be faster to start in 2nd rather than lose time shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. Another factor is the distance that the race is conducted. I had a 1980 Chevelle Malibu SS which had a very broad torque band and a high ratio diff. This thing would pull away without a shudder in 4th from a dead stop (on level ground) Rather than "row" it, I regularly started in 2nd to improve 0-60 times. Buy the way this thing ran at 3000 RPM in 4th at 60 mph. With a 5000 rpm red line in could not get over 100 mph! although it got there very quickly.
Just bought a 2000 mustang and it's bad, getting ready to drop some more pony power in her.
GOT TO LOVE IT.
Good performance, but too many problems for the price
Transmission whine.
Rear end differential whine.
Ticking noise from the dash area.
Acts weird everyday, like today it was kind of dragging along when you get on it.
This car is in my opinion a lemon, maybe it's just the one I have; I don't know but I sure wouldn't sign the papers if I had to do it all over again.
I love to drive the car and listen to the great sound of a Mustang, but I should have gone with the previous body style (96-98 Cobra), which would have been the best deal financially (also the Cobra has better performance).
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 18th December, 2000
I want to garage my current 2000 GT and buy another. I'm a middle aged businessman who loves these cars. Not even a minor problem.
I agree with you, the 1996 Mustang I own is an over priced piece of junk!!!
Problems:
Transmission failure at approx 23K.
Convertible top failure at 32K.
Leather seat failure at 32K. Still disputing this with Ford at 63K, next step is to go to the State Attourney as I believe this is an unresolved warranty.
My suggestion, if you want a muscle car look at other manufacturers than Ford.
It all depends on how you keep the car. I know the car you have right now is not your fault that it's breaking down. I have a 1990 Mustang 5.0 5-speed, and it has never given me a problem. I just replaced the clutch a month ago. It was the same one since it came out of the factory, at 114,000 miles it gave out. I consider that very good!
My 2003 GT with a 5 speed is a transmission nightmare. It grinds when I go from 1st to 2nd, and Ford tells me that it is normal, or that they can't reproduce the problem. It goes away mostly once the car is warm. There are hundreds of postings on stangnet.com about this very issue, but no one wants to do anything about it.
Mike.
20th Mar 2001, 09:44
Why did you have to get the air control valve lifted? What was the car doing?