1996 Kia Sephia LS 1.8L DOHC
Summary:
Not bad if you can get it at MSRP of $6995
Faults:
Front brake disc rotors replaced at 25K miles due to warping.
Fuse box melted at 50K miles. Expensive fix.
Passenger side air bag failure. VERY expensive fix. Happened soon after warranty expiration, darn.
Master cylinder started leaking at 65K miles after a 2nd brake pad change.
Battery replaced at 70K miles.
Alternator noisy at 80K miles.
General Comments:
The early Kias were about 75% Japanese, with only some parts made in Korea. This keeps my review somewhat favorable as I know which parts are Japanese... the ones that didn't break. I used the 60K mile bumper-bumper warranty often but the bigger problems came after that. While it isn't a basket case, it isn't the bulletproof wonder like my 1984 Honda Accord which lasted to 134K miles until I sold it. I imagine it's still going strong.
Comfort is good. A/C is good, controls are logically laid out. Road noise is rather high but not unexpected in a sub-compact. Dashboard looks good but the sunlight has taken its toll... the dashboard is lifting in places and is now misaligned with the plastic dash panel instrument gauge insert. Radio is OK, was replaced soon after buying the car with an aftermarket one.
Despite the problems it has been reliable transportation and starts every time.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No
Review Date: 11th June, 2001
16th Aug 2004, 18:00
I own a 1996 KIA Sophia 1.8 and I have had nothing, but problems with this car. I change the oil and wires and plugs and a tune up. I have spent over 1500.00 dollars on this car. What ever you do Do not buy a Kia sephia there made poorly and very cheap. This is not a good car for families.
18th Apr 2008, 21:28
I like my 1996 Kia. The problem for me is trying to find an oil pan.
25th Oct 2021, 19:19
Why in God’s name would you be revving your engine in excess of 5,000 RPMs? If you look at the details of an alternator test performed on a new alternator, you would notice that aside from the power curve, the details of the power supply in volts as well as amps at different RPMs. Ask to see one on a new alternator at a parts store sometime and you can gain some useful information.
26th Oct 2021, 17:17
I don’t know. Maybe merging onto a freeway? Passing someone on a 2 lane road? Unless the redline is below 5000, it shouldn’t be a problem.
24th Jan 2003, 13:00
This is a followup to my original review. Since then I've had my alternator break twice and now it needs a new starter. the driveshafts are also about to go out. Apparently if you rev the engine past 5000rpm the alternator breaks...odd.
The neutral safety switch also broke. it's a small piece of plastic that sits on top of the transmission and cost around $25. A new part costs $165 and the repair shop charged me $300 to replace it. I could have fixed it myself with a crescent wrench and a flashlight. I don't know who are the bigger thieves, the parts manufacturers or auto repair shops.
Now I know why they don't want electric cars on the road... they would last too long and would be too reliable, thus putting parts and repair shops out of business.