2000 Oldsmobile Bravada AWD 4.3 Vortec V6
Summary:
A Good Value--Comfortable and Durable
Faults:
- The Check Engine light is continuously illuminated. Codes indicate a faulty gas gauge and secondary air pump (very common issues on this vehicle).
- The transmission leaks fluid from the front seal. A new pan and gasket did not correct this issue.
- Tires (Uniroyal Laredo) are unevenly worn and leaking air. A replacement set of Dunlop Radial Rover RVXT would improve the ride and handling of this vehicle dramatically.
General Comments:
I purchased my previous vehicle, a 1986 GMC Jimmy S-15, for use primarily in the snow. The truck was very dependable, comfortable, and easy to maintain. It developed a fuel leak, however, and my mechanic offered to buy it above blue book value. Being without a winter vehicle, I decided to purchase the Bravada in August 2004. I was impressed by its sound handling, comfortable ride quality, and large cargo space. (Due to the high center of gravity of this vehicle, it is crucial to maintain proper tire inflation - 26 PSI makes the truck feel buoyant and clumsy; 38 PSI makes the truck feel secure and "tight.") The 4.3L V6 provides great off-the-line performance, but highway passing power is only adequate. The SmartTrak all wheel drive system performs well in the snow and mud, and I have yet to get stuck. (Have this system inspected by an Oldsmobile/GM dealer before purchasing--the units seem to fail prematurely). The seats are comfortable, featuring power lumbar and six adjustments, but I am not impressed with the constant plastic creaking noises on the interior. Pieces feel like they are breaking with each road bump or door close. Overall, the vehicle performs well and is easy to operate and maintain. I just wish it had as few electronics as my 1986 Jimmy!
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 11th December, 2006
13th May 2004, 01:39
I Live in Colorado and purchased a 2001 Bravada used with 26k miles on it, it is now up over 58k miles. I have experienced the exact same problems that you have, with one exception, My Dealer had his act together :)
First, I have owned a Ford once, and several Dodge and Chrysler vehicles as well as Chevy. For my money I would buy Chevy/GM again. This Bravada has been great!
The problem you described with the transfer case shaking really hard in reverse is a known issue. I noticed it shortly after purchasing the vehicle. When I mentioned it to the Oldsmobile dealer in 2003 they took care of it free of charge. The problem is at the time of manufacture, the clutch disks had a coating on them that during use wore off and contaminated the transfer case fluid. The solution, the dealer drained the transfer case, filled it with GM Auto-Trak II fluid (GM PN 12378508), told me to bring it back after I had driven 300 miles, then they drained and refilled it again. It has been flawless ever since. (over 32k miles later)
Harsh shifting and no 3-4. I experienced this problem and it was the Ignition Switch! No kidding, the give away was on a couple occasions I was driving down the road and all the instrument cluster lights came on, then went off, exactly the same as when you first start the car. Eventually the Service Engine Soon light came on and the Dealer pulled DTC codes P0740, P0753, P0758, and P1860 from the computer, they told me the ignition switch was the problem. Since the vehicle was now out of warranty I purchased one from them for around $83.00 dollars and installed it myself. The transmission has been fine ever since. Now over 15k miles since the Ignition switch replacement. (FYI: I have also heard of contaminated transmission control bodies during manufacture that cause a similar problem.)
Rough Idle. This, in my case was due to too much TLC. I had the dealer replace the Fuel filter at 30k miles. Shortly there after (5k miles) I noticed rough idle. This culminated to very poor fuel economy (As indicated on the overhead computer) and eventually the Service Engine Soon light came on. The dealer pulled the codes from the computer and saw numerous "Misfire" conditions. They said this was due to "Bad Gas" getting by the fuel filter and fowling the fuel injectors. I said bull! They used their in-car fuel system cleaning procedure (Normally a $100 fee) to flush out the lines and injectors free of charge. At my request I also asked them to replace the fuel filter (At my cost for the second time) and to give me the old one. I cut the old filter open and there was a hole in this GM OEM filter element allowing contaminates to pass. I pointed this out to the dealer and they basically had no comment. I have put 28k miles on this vehicle since then with no further problems.
Last, but not least, suspension components. My Idler Arm just became so sloppy at 58K miles that I replaced it myself. The Cost for this part was $86.00. In all fairness, I have slammed into potholes so hard while driving this vehicle that I wondered at the time what damage I just did. Also the Idler Arm grease fittings have not seen my grease gun for over 32k miles, due to the fact that it is impossible to see these fittings unless you drop the plastic suspension shield, and I completely overlooked them. I would venture a bet that most fast-lubes miss these also. As for Ball Joints, I noticed a popping in mine at around 34k miles, the dealer asked me when did you last lubricate them? I responded about 8k miles ago, they politely told me to RTFM (Read the Owners Manual) and lubricate them at every oil change, or 3000 miles. The dealer then lubricated them free of charge. Although they have been fine since then, I have to wonder from reading other posts, if GM has place inadequate (Geo Metro?) ball joints on a SUV, and they will fail soon. Now that I am keeping up proper lubrication, only time will tell.