Faults:

Having some transmission problems - think it may be the diff problem mentioned by a few others. Not sure yet!

The half shafts have been replaced, but those were my fault.

Exhaust has rusted through in spots, but the roads where I live are treated with salt every winter, so that's not surprising.

Other than that, only normal maintenance has been necessary.

Faults:

Needed new front fenders and repair to the rear fender due to rust (16 years old at time of replacement).

Needed head gasket in 2006.

A/C died 2009.

General Comments:

Real fun car to drive. Good on fuel thanks to the 1.4 litre engine. If taken care of, it will last at least another couple of years.

Faults:

This applies to what I've done to any car I've owned (these are the most common problems you'll have, pretty much in this order) :

Put WD 40 EVERYWHERE that moves or is an electrical connection; except brake rotors and pulleys.

Silicone spray (armor all or any cheapo stuff - if it says tire shine, it's silicone emulsion) to every rubber part, pulley or plastic stuff around the car.

Changed oil (semi or synthetic 20w50; it's hot in this area)

Added leak seal in oil (stops leaks in valve seals and smoke in tail pipe great)

Added slick 50 to your oil (extends life of the engine, consumes less oil, consumes less fuel, lowers operating temperature; my opinion)

Changed Spark plugs (platinum 2 tip - saves some gas)

Changed spark plug cables (also distributor cap and rotor if needed or wanted) if your car stutters on and off, it is probably these cables.

Change battery.

Change starter.

Changed alternator.

Installed free flow air filter (a piece of cotton rag across an empty air filter does the trick too) (saves gas, more horsepower; you choose. I prefer to ease on the pedal and save gas).

Remember to check:

Oil level (carry 1 bottle of oil to replenish)

As someone else said before me, CHECK THE DIFFERENTIAL FLUID!!. It cost me a big headache, a ton of head scratching and a new differential (400 dollars and a whole week dismounting and mounting the spare I bought) That considered, I bought a whole automatic transmission that comes with the differential in it.

If you want to save yourself some trouble, break your piggy bank before your used car strands you somewhere (an ounce of prevention is WAYYYYYYY better than a ton of cure).

This car left me stranded only once. It was due to a faulty starter solenoid (did not know at the time you could tap it and it would work again, at least until you change it)

General Comments:

The best and most reliable car I owned.

WARNING.

Everything conspires so that you do not check the DIFFERENTIAL FLUID.

Most cars 1993 onwards share the same compartment with the automatic transmission.

THIS ONE DOES NOT!. IT IS A SEPARATE compartment!.

Seats could be better, but I've seen worse.

Faults:

As I read in this forum, I also wished I had known to check the differential oil. Everything conspires so that you never check the differential oil. Even repair manuals mislead you. I did check when the steering was pushing to the left, my left brake was dragging, but could not find anything wrong with them. But this did not prevent the differential from seizing.

I was going crazy thinking there was something wrong with my brakes, or that the ball joint or bushings were worn out, that the caliper was frozen instead of floating slightly to accommodate the brake pad wear. Now the differential is broken (the left wheel snaps, especially when turning; I can tell by the skid mark on the rubber on the tire). I hope this helps somebody to check the differential oil. Mine was empty. How could that happen, if the differential is sealed?. All I found when I opened the drain plug was an ounce of oil and about as much metal shaving coming out.

General Comments:

Change the front shocks and you will feel you are in a new car.

Space inside is average to very comfortable. Especially if you are tall, knees do not get close to the dashboard like in some cars.