1990 Volvo 740 GLE 16-Value 2.3 liter, DOHC, 4-cylinder, Sixteen Valv
Summary:
A long living car if properly maintained.
Faults:
I've recently purchased the car after my 1986 240 DL Sedan had a bit of an accident. I purchased the car with high mileage and a lot of work was needed to bring it back up to the proper specs for only $550. One owner and the body was almost flawless. I could not say no. Though I knew that at that price, there would be many problems to get it up to spec. This is the items and cost.
Timing and Balance Belts need to be changed: ($430) (installed)
Complete brake job in rear: Calipers, rotors, and shoes: ($458) (installed)
Rear right taillight circuit board: ($44) (Part)
Valve cover gasket replaced: ($94.58) (Installed)
O2 sensor: ($247.95) (Installed)
Control Arm Bushings: ($135.90 x 2) (Installed)
Fuel Filter ($28.97) (Part)
Engine Treatment with ZMAX ($34.95) (Self installation)
Front Rotors and Brake pads ($274.55) (Installed)
Front passenger caliper ($128.33) (Installed)
Right front signal assembly: ($75.00) (Self installed)
General Comments:
I've only purchased Volvos most of my life. Always had a 250 sedan. This move to the 740 seems to be pretty good once you get it back to it's proper maintenance level. Should be able to squeeze another 100,000 miles out of the motor and transmission.
Prior owner was from Florida and put massive miles on it within 4 years of over 150,000. I believe once all the repairs are done and it finally gets the once over and the local Volvo dealership, it should be one car that I should keep for a very long time.
The only problem that I have with this car is the length of the seatbelts. They are not long enough for a rather large guy like myself though the 240 was never an issue in this area. The 740 seatbelts does not fit and I'm in the market for extensions for myself.
Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes
Review Date: 23rd November, 2002
13th Jan 2011, 01:15
Regarding the 16 valve motor - it's an interference design.
If the timing belt breaks (or something causes it to jump teeth) on the 16V, the valves hit the pistons and at the very least, valves will be bent. Engine will need head work, and new timing belt.
On the 8 valve - it's not an interference design - if the belt breaks, no damage will be done. Need new timing belt.
'Spose that's the cost of performance.
25th May 2010, 02:43
What's the deal with the timing belt issues on the 16-valve motor? I've heard it is the engine's one major shortfall. I don't quite understand what the problem is though, but have always heard to replace the tensioner when replacing the timing belt. Any clarification on the problem and how to resolve it would be great.