20th Jul 2007, 09:00

The Cobalt is NOT just another Cavalier. It rides, if I remember right, on a European Opel chassis- not the crap "J" platform the Cavalier/Sunbird (Sunfire) used. Overall the Cobalt is far and away a better car, and the SS version gave the Acura RSX Type-S headaches. Road and Track magazine compared the two and the Cobalt beat the RSX! I've ridden in a couple and was pleased with them overall.

26th Dec 2007, 09:10

First off, the Cobalt is a much better car overall. As for this persons problems with the Cavalier, none of them were abnormal except for the fuel pump going. Did this person run the gas tank empty every time between fill ups? Surprise about changing spark plugs at 100000 miles? EVERY car should get new spark plugs after 100000 miles if just to see if you can get the old ones out easily, geesh. New shocks and struts are also a given at 100000 miles. The AC is a bit of a drag, but that is typical for a lot of cars. I have a friend with a late model Honda Civic that has AC problems. Also, if it was the condenser, then that means something could have hit it and punctured it, once again making it not the cars fault. Overall, I think you got a pretty good car. No car goes 150000 miles without any maintenance. Also, a cavalier is hardly expensive to fix.

11th Oct 2009, 12:28

I have a 2000 coupe with 150,000 miles on it and have never had a problem. I think the largest repair I've done was spark plugs, wires, and new coils, but those are basic maintenance repairs. And now when I'm looking for a new car, I'll be searching for the late model Cavalier or even a Cobalt, which is an amazing car from what I've heard. You may have just gotten a bad car off the line, or maybe you need to be gentler with your cars.

18th Apr 2010, 11:28

Well I totally agree with the poster on this one.

I bought my 1999 Cavalier 10 months ago used with 150 000kms on it.

6 months ago the cat clogged, but the computer wouldn't show that was the problem.

So now after changing the motor and still not working, I find out it was the cat.

When I bought the car, I paid 1500 and another 1500 to safety, which I was OK with. Now that I'm out 7000 more on the engine, brakes, bearings, sensors etc etc. and the engine light is still on, I hate my car, but it's all I've got for now.

This car will not see another owner despite how much it has cost me. When I get another car, I will burn this piece of junk to the ground.

I have treated it very well, and not gotten the love back from it.

Drive it hard if you want it to live. The cat clogs too easy at low RPMs.

As for the ABS light.. that is the first thing to come on when you are low on power (mine was due to a faulty battery, then a burnt out wire from the alternator to the starter). You'd think the battery light should come on first before your brakes fail.

19th Apr 2010, 12:03

Your brakes won't fail just because the ABS turns on. The ABS just prevents the brakes from locking up. That system failed in my '95 Neon a long time ago, it was overreacting every time I stepped on the brakes (brakes didn't even begin to lock up, but ABS went crazy.) I just pulled out the fuse for the ABS, live with the light on the dash and make my own ABS (in a panic stop, I just pump my brakes manually). The only time my wheels have ever locked up is in the winter time when there's snow on the ground. ABS won't help you in the snow either, it actually makes it harder to stop in the snow than just locking up the wheels.

4th Mar 2013, 18:09

Agreed. Same thing started happening to me. I checked the owner's manual, and it said to simply restart the car. Guess what? It works. Literally all you need to do to "fix" this is reset the ABS system. Why is it broke? I don't know, and if that's the advice they give in the manual, they probably don't either.