20th Feb 2005, 03:43

I feel your pain..

I have a 99 cirrus LXI and I had it two weeks when the motor went out. The timing belt snapped causing tragedy. My car was then forced to go through a transplant. After a few thousand dollars and a few bummed rides I had my car back. I have had nothing but problems with the drive train. I will say that the inside of this car is awesome. It is the best interior that I have ever owned. The drivetrain is FOREIGN!! that is whhy you pay out the nose when you replace anything underneath the hood. Chrysler traded technology with Mitsubishi.. That is why everything under the hood is so expensive. I wish you all the best of luck with your cars. I have 86,000 miles on my car and I do love it just not the problems.

22nd Feb 2005, 19:07

My car is 1995 Model 68k miles. I have same problem with my car. When I start in the morning it start OK than with in 10 seconds engine stalls. I open up the air intake pipe and clean with fuel injector cleaner than couple of week no problem. But last two day engine start stalling again in the morning. I am going to change fuel filter. fuel pump, O2 sensor. and see what happens. If any one find solution for this problem please let us know.

Thanks!!

23rd Feb 2005, 10:55

I am having the same problems here. Just bought one used with about 85,000 miles on it. Was running fine until a couple days ago. The car would not start, battery seemed good, starter, everything. So I had it towed to a shop. The spark plugs were replaced and it fired right up. 4 days later the car would not start up do the same thing again. So now its at the shop, it started up yesterday then while driving cut completely off then came back on a few minutes later. Now I am looking into the fuel lines or pump, but it may just be the car from what I have read here.

Thanks For the Info.

26th Feb 2005, 13:59

Although my 98 Cirrus (59K miles) has not yet died at cruising speed, it stumbles and dies much as the rest of you have described, but when decelerating at a light. I was thinking fuel filter until I read the rest of these comments. As I have already replaced plugs, wires and exhaust gas regulator, I am beginning to think perhaps there are vacuum issues. It sort of *feels* like a vacuum issue. I would be very happy to hear if anyone else has succeeded in solving this issue, as it seems to be a generic fault in this model.

27th Feb 2005, 10:04

Hi, back again (98 Cirrus with 59K miles above). I was thinking about what some had said about electronic sensors associated with the transmission, so I tried driving around town with the transmission in 3rd gear and it did not stall. The downshifts at traffic lights were a little more rougher than I would have liked, but the engine did not stall. Perhaps there is something to this. If anyone with training in this area monitors this list, could you comment on where this sensor is found on the Cirrus?

Thanks!

1st Mar 2005, 16:35

'98 Cirrus- Problem resolution.

I caved in and took it to a shop. They (correctly) diagnosed the EGR valve, which *only* functions when the car is in gear, making diagnosis difficult. However, they replaced it with the re-engineered version offered by Chrysler and the problem is gone. Just thought I would supply this resolution in case someone else has a similar problem.

24th May 2005, 13:20

Please help! Our 1998 Chrysler Cirrus LXI dies at stop lights, in the drive way idling, and on the highway at 70 mph. When this occurs, the "check engine" light comes on and the speedometer bounces all over the place. The light stays on for a few seconds, all power is lost, and then the light goes out and the power is restored. I took it in to the shop and the mechanic checked it out on the computer while driving it. He said that the car duplicated everything I said, but that it did not give any codes to pursue on the computer. So, I spent $75.00 for them to tell me that I have to wait until the car completely fails before they will be able to fix it. Any ideas??? Thanks!

3rd Jun 2005, 20:17

I have a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus LXI with 48,000 miles and was experiencing the same problem as noted by a number of the readers, car stalling while driving on the tollway, stalling at stop signs suddenly, dieing out and then going again. The dealer could not find the problem, but a private repair shop diagnosed a erratic electronic distributor. They replaced it and the car runs fine now. No problems for the last 4 months. Unfortunately the cost of parts and labor was approx. $ 1200. Hope this helps.

1st Jul 2005, 12:37

On my '99 Cirrus (81k miles), I've changed the plugs, wires, distributor rotor and cap, fuel filter, egr valve, and probably some other things I can't even remember. I still have the same problem all of you are having. I've had the diagnostics sent to Chrysler Technical (tech HQ) and they said it had no problems! I've given up. I've spent over a grand already, and the problem is just as bad as it was when it started. Funny thing is, it didn't have this problem until about 500 miles after my dealership gave it a "tune-up". Yeah, they tuned it up "real good".

23rd Jul 2005, 12:27

Hi, my name is Larry St. Clair. I have a 98 Cirrus and have had the same problem. I also became frustrated when the problem could not be diagnosed because it didn't generate a code in the computer. As stated by everyone else, the engine kept stalling at inconvenient times. The reason for the engine stalling is a bad camshaft sensor. It is located behind the distributor. cap. The camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor talk to each other. They tell the computer where the piston and valves are so the engine can be timed properly. When the computer doesn't know this information, it temporarily shuts down the engine to avoid damage until the two sensors start talking again. The only time a code is generated is when the sensor totally fails, which happens rarely. Chrysler dealerships have a laptop computer that can be put in the car to monitor engine functions. Tell the dealership to hook the computer up to your car and let the car run until the engine stops. This could take as long as 20 min. or so. When this happens, the computer on the car will generate a temporary code that the laptop can read, thus solving your problem. Don't let the dealership tell you they can't do that because they can. I am a mechanic, I know. I hope this information has helped anyone with this problem. Any questions? My e-mail is Deathvalley70@msn.com (my favorite place to hike!)