13th May 2007, 13:10

May 13th, 2007.

Hey, me too! I will post on this site if the "stalling" problem has been fixed this time! I have had it in many times, so I had the mechanic "hook" the car up to the computer, and drive it around for a week! Wish me luck, he says it is fixed and I pick it up on Wednesday!

20th May 2007, 22:35

I am having the stalling problem, too. It usually occurs at stop lights; however, my car stalled two nights ago when I pulled out of a parking lot and would not start again until the next morning. Any ideas as to what is wrong?

6th Jun 2007, 14:08

I've had a 1997 JXI convertible for the past six years. It's mostly garaged in bad weather, but I did notice sloshing sounds in the driver's side rear after rain storms. I looked around for drain holes, but didn't find any and the problem wasn't serious so I never did anything about it.

Recently we've had some heavy rains and the Sebring has been outside my office all day during three of four serious storms. Yesterday I discovered about a half inch of water on the driver's side floor front and rear and some moisture on the passenger side. I parked the car on a steep slope (nose up) and sure enough, there was a steady dribble of water at the back of the rocker panel.

I'll follow the above suggestions and open up the slots under the car or drill holes if I have to and will let you know how it works out.

Thank you all so very much for your help.

6th Jun 2007, 23:54

I have a 1998 limited convertible. Recently, I parked and the next day it would not start. I have put on a crank sensor, egr valve, rotor, tune up, converter, fuel pump, it runs, but is stalling out, but will restart after a few seconds. Now they say I need a new distributor which will cost $1000+. With all of this I almost have a new car. Anyone having stalling problems and what did you do?

7th Jun 2007, 16:02

I have a 1998 Chysler Sebring Convertible. Suddenly my odometer switches to read "deck" when it is either on odometer or trip mode. Has anyone else had this problem? I've looked in the manual and no where does it say what this means. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

10th Jun 2007, 19:05

I have a `996 Chrysler sebring Coupe. The car runs fine, but has begun to frequently blow the 30A motor fuse. I have been replacing it with Autozone fuses. I am going to get one from either the dealer or a foreign car auto parts store. It initially started blowing the fuse as you drove the car down the road. Now, it pretty much zaps it right away upon attempting to start the engine. Any suggestions?

15th Jun 2007, 11:52

I had the same problem with it saying deck in the dash. What this means is your trunk is not latched securely.

17th Jun 2007, 12:33

I've owned my 1997 JXI Convertible for nearly 4 1/2 Years.

It has always been a reliable car however, running great for all these years hasn't kept me from the mechanic. The CHECK ENGINE light has haunted me since day 1. It's on again, it's off again, it's on again. I empty my wallet it keeps coming back. The mechanics don't know how to FIX the problem once and for all, but sure like running my VISA card. The latest is a computer diagnostic that read multiple cylinder misfires. Cylinder 5 and 6 to be exact. Anyone had this problem? Oh yea my odometer comes and goes! Keeps accurate account of mileage, but shares that info with me when it feels like it. Need the car smogged too and can't pass with the CHECK ENGINE light on. Any Tips over this obstacle.

Thanks.

19th Jun 2007, 14:17

To the person with the random check engine light, that need to pass emissions. Take your car to Auto Zone, or Checkers. They will connect the diagnostic code reader and pull the codes. Ask them to erase the history or clear all codes. Then drive directly to the emissions testing facility without shutting off the car. The engine has to send the same code 3 times for the light to come on, so you should be able to get through emission testing.

29th Jun 2007, 10:35

I have a 98 Limited. Have had many of the problems that appear in previous posts: ignition key stuck, transmission went out at 115K, A/C resistor, rear defrost falls off, rear view mirror cloudy. NO flooding, thank goodness.

Have had some problems too that I have not seen in previous posts: trunk struts wore out, wouldn't hold open the trunk, CD player will not work in very hot or very cold weather, stereo volume knob works only sometimes, also, my interior (map) lights won't come on if the car has been running for a while (they work when I first start up the car).

Now my instrument panel lights flicker. Odometer still works fine, but the brightness of the illuminated gauges is not consistent. Dealer wants to replace the whole thing for $300. Has anyone had this before and know if there is a repair I can do?

Also, any expertise to offer on the map lights or stereo problems?

Thanks!

30th Jun 2007, 17:59

I recently purchased a 1999 jxi and had a question concerning noises I heard, a buzzing/ motor running type sound that appears to me coming from under the car. Filled the car with gas and, so far, the sound is gone. Any hints or ideas?

4th Jul 2007, 21:13

To the guy who needs to pass inspection:

Do not "erase the history or clear all codes. Then drive directly to the emissions testing facility" because you will be wasting your money. The mechanic inspecting your vehicle will tell you to come back in a couple days because not all of the codes will have passed through. After the car's computer is reset to clear all of the codes it will take at least a day if not more for it to go through a complete self-diagnostic. If you do not have time to do that when the mechanic reads what the computer says it will show that the codes were recently reset and have not finished analyzing, and you will have wasted the cost of inspection and still not have passed.

If however you reset the codes and wait three days and no lights come on, then go ahead and get it inspected. Good luck to ya.