4th Oct 2002, 20:13

The fuel filter is placed on the inside of the frame rail on the drivers side of truck. There is a small screen filter that is placed on bottom of electric fuel pump in fuel tank, this is only a secondary filter and is constructed of a mesh material and can be cleaned. This filtering system is very common among all vehicle manufacturers.

17th Oct 2002, 22:10

I own a 1996 Dodge Dakota Sport 2.5L and I have had all of the same problems as the writer of the original comment. In addition, the manufacturer put a 1997 model transmission on the 1996 engine. When I replaced the clutch, I had to mix and match parts to make it fit. The fuel filter is in the gas tank. My Chilton's manual says that it should be on the frame rail in a 1993-1996 2.5L and in the fuel tank on all other model trucks, but it is in the fuel tank. This could be another example of the manufacturer getting lazy on the last year of the old style Dakota.

Johnny.

28th Oct 2002, 03:55

Bought a 1996 Dodge Dakota 2.5l new in 96'. Problems: Warped brake disk on right front brake, bottom door hinge broke off door - shop inspected said rubber bumper was cause of noise, seat adjustment assembly broke, seat split drivers side, ignition switch mechanical failure, front brakes repair $500 - complete rebuild, clutch replacement next - $500, front grille (plastic) cracked. Truck has 68,000 miles. I have lube&oil at 3,000 miles, vehicle inspections each fall. Maintenance done as necessary/scheduled. Next vehicle will be 'classic'. The kinds of repair I'm having done on a almost new truck I consider normal on a 30 year old car! -computer designed?-

12th Dec 2002, 22:07

I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota and agree for the most part with the original review written about the problems. At least for my vehicle, I think I got a lemon. I bought mine new, in 1995, and here's my mechanical problems list as of its 106k miles:

Seat adjustment levers on passenger side broken/failed: 20k.

Fuel pump replaced: 30k.

First battery died: 42k.

Seat adjustment levers on driver's side broken/failed: 54k.

Fuel gauge inoperable: 60k.

Second battery died: 63k.

Transmission leak due to parts later recalled by manufacturer: 70k.

Radiator blown, replaced: 80k.

Valve gaskets blown, valve covers replaced: 80k.

Ignition failure due to valve gasket/cover problem (oil seeped all down into the starter) : 80k.

Chipped paint, down to primer, left front fender: 85k (I wash and wax regularly by hand)

Passenger side door panel separated from door due to rusted/corroded hardware: 90k.

Ignition failure, waiting to be towed:: 106k, and it's currently stranded in a parking lot.

Regular maintenance done every 3k, yearly check of coolant levels, brake check, transmission checks every 40 to 50k, tune-ups regularly scheduled. Is this a lemon?

26th Dec 2002, 15:42

My 1996 Dodge Dakota dies when I take my foot off the accelerator about half the time I use it. Sometimes when I drive to town, it will die every time I take my foot off the acceleratorand the next time I drive, it may not die a single time. I have replaced the fuel module in the gas tank, replaced the air filter, and had the fuel injectors cleaned. One owner told me he had the same problem once and the dealer cleaned the throttle body and did one other thing which he can't remember. I would appreciate any suggestions.

B. Moore.

5th Jan 2003, 01:01

B.Moore, on your problem with the engine stalling. You might to replace the map sensor or the throttle position sensor. I have a "95" 2.5 dakota sport purchased 2years ago with 105,000mi & know has 123,000mi the truck looks like new & runs great, the only problem I had was with the computer, caused stalling out & hard starting, found out the computer was from a 1991 chrysler car, I replaced it with the proper one & no problems. J.B.

9th Feb 2003, 22:44

I have a 1996 Dodge Dakota sport and at about 90k something happened with my ignition I think, but I'm not sure. When I turn the key, everything else works fine it just doesn't start. I thought it might have been the starter, but I have the starter bypassed with a switch right now temporarily until I get it fixed. If my ignition is turned all the way on, I can start my truck with the switch. If my ignition is off, my truck will just keep turning over if I hit the switch. What could the problem be?

15th Mar 2003, 18:51

I own a 1995 Dodge Dakota 4x4 with a 3.9 liter engine and I am having some problems. After it warms up, it starts to miss. Then it will start shifting in and out of over drive. Sometimes the 'over drive off' button on the left side of the dash will light up and sometimes it won't. After all of this, if I shut the truck off for awhile and go to restart it, it won't stay idling and it runs even rougher. I took it to a Dodge dealer ship and they told me they could not get it to act up, but there were several different codes that they just cleared because they did not make sense. After getting the truck out of the shop, it ran good for a couple of days, but started doing the same thing. I would much rather fix this problem myself if someone could give me some ideas on what to look at. PLEASE HELP. DOUG

30th Apr 2003, 21:50

B. Moore you might want to clean your I.A.C. motor with carb cleaner. It is attached on the rear of the throttle body. Be very careful with it, it is sensitive!

There is a service bulletin out for it #181694 AUG 94 IAC Motor - Erratic Idle/Stalls On Decel/Hot Restart. You can also check with http://www.dakota-truck.net (The DML) and do a search for IAC.

Bryan.

23rd Jul 2003, 04:59

The fuel filter is attached to the fuel pump in the tank. Very convenient (ha ha). Never run theses trucks low on fuel-- pump will quit, since the fuel itself acts as a cooling agent-a design and engineering flaw that Chrysler will not admit to. Chrysler has always opted for a band-aid when surgery is required. Anyone who buys a new/used Chrysler product is taking a gamble-lets go to the river boat!!!

24th Oct 2004, 17:28

B. Moore, or anyone else.

I have a '96 Dakota I bought brand new. Been great truck. The only problem I've had is one day I was driving, when I took my foot off pedal it died. Had to give a little gas to keep running. I took the sensor on back of carb off and cleaned it and pulled the arm out. This worked great for about 3 to 4 days. (I drive my truck a lot) I changed that sensor and ran fine for about a week. Mechanic told me to change the battery. I thought he was nuts since truck turned over fine, but did it anyway. That solved the problem emediately. I do know one other guy that had same problem. Hope this helps somebody.