Faults:
Odd tire wear on left rear, replaced at 40,000 miles.
MAF sensor (IAT shorted) 50,000 miles.
Alternator only producing 13.2 volts, replaced about 60,000 miles.
Battery failed after only 2 1/2 years, out of mileage warranty.
Have had 3 diagnostic routines with no real answer of problems. Dealer suggested that engine be replaced at only 62,000 miles. Cost of $6,500.
Performed a engine tear down/diagnostic myself, found piston 7 has large porosity opening into piston ring grooves. Ring grooves have failed and was causing a high compression issue, NOT low compression that ford techs claimed.
In attempt to locate a replacement piston, ford says it is in back order and has no idea when it will be available.
General Comments:
The first 37,000 - 38,000 was good, some rattles and squeaks that still have not been resolved. Some of that front end shake that so many of these trucks have experienced.
Above that mileage (out of warranty), I have had several issues with odd tire wear (left rear), failed MAF sensor, and some drivability issues.
Started to have some cold start spark knock at about 40,000 miles. Took it to the dealer, was diagnosed as a vacuum or false air issue. Checked ALL vacuum lines, fittings, and intake gaskets with no change. Purchased my own PC based diagnostic software and interface. Was getting codes 171 (system lean bank 0ne), 300, 305, 306, and sometimes 307 (random/specific misfires).
Began checking coils, sensors, plugs (learned about the issues with them and was forced to purchase $300 removal tool and 8 new plugs) but made no difference.
Took it back to dealer for additional service, was told it had low compression on cylinder 7 and that I most likely had a burnt valve.
Brought back to dealer for head removal and valve inspection, but was told I had a bent connecting rod and that I should replace engine at a cost of $6,500.
Began engine tear down/diagnostic myself, found that the rod is NOT bent. Called dealer and spoke with service advisor and engine mechanic that did last diagnostic was told that the compression was ABOVE specs. Started me thinking about how to achieve higher compression when building an engine. That is achieved with tighter fitting pistons and rings that are taller then stock. Pulled piston 7, found the ring grooves had failed exposing a rather large porosity pocket that intersections the ring grooves.
Have tried several ford dealers for a replacement piston but it is in back order with no expected date of shipment. I have been forced to purchase a complete set of new aftermarket pistons at a cost of almost $500 and still have to re-assemble the engine.
Lets hope this fixes the problem, for now at least. (I feel a fix and ditch coming on)
27th Oct 2012, 08:49
I've had my 2006 Superduty since 12-12-06. I mudded it, pulled a 3 horse horse trailer with living quarters, and used it as a drag car. Sometimes I miss my oil changes by as much as 1000 miles. I just had the tranny serviced at 60000 miles, and other than a turn signal, I've yet to have trouble.
I have a K&N air system. I cut the factory muffler off and put a 12" Cherrybomb glass pack on it, and a throttle body spacer. I ran a Superchip programmer for a while, and it got better mileage and I could smoke both back tires as long as I wanted.
Mine loved pulling my trailer loaded almost to 10000 pounds, but when I ran upwards of 70 mph for long periods, I got 7.5 MPG. That's my only gripe; it could be easier on gas. I don't know what you got, but I'd get another in a heartbeat!!!