28th Jan 2006, 00:05
I drive a 2001 F350 Lariat DRW. I too have had to rebuild my tranny at 65000 miles. The company that rebuilt it for me suggested a billet torque converter and shift kit. $3000 and 3000 miles later it's running fine. However, I'm also interested to know if an Allison tranny/7.3 L Powerstroke combination can be achieved. If anyone has information please e-mail to simplesimon211@yahoo.com.
25th Jul 2006, 08:50
I have a 1995 F350 with the powerstroke and the E4OD it has about 250000 miles on it now, I have seen very few problems with the tranny. I am still driving it, the only thing it when you stomp on it 2nd gear might slip a little, but it hold the power from the engine still. It just doesn't give you a really firm shift.
9th Jul 2008, 10:28
I have a 1996 F-350 Auto 4x4 and the trans has not been messed with and it shifts good. the truck has 211,500 miles on it. I added a programer that helped the trans shift. I have a Jake brake on the truck to help with slow downs when towing.
I have another 96 F-350 work truck that has 432,000 miles on it. The trans was replaced ($2,000) at 296,000. otherwise the truck is doing good. Great trucks.
25th Sep 2008, 14:04
I have a 96 f-350 2wd psd auto trans. the trans is not slipping but I noticed the shifts are getting really firm almost harsh any ideas whats going on.
2nd Mar 2009, 13:12
I have a F350 XLT (4-door, long bed, 2WD, manual trans) with 174,000 miles. The truck drives like a champ - no mechanical problems -hard to believe! Any thoughts on what might need to be fixed in the future would be appreciated. Thanks.
18th Mar 2009, 21:50
I have a 1995 F350 Crew Cab dually. The truck belonged to my cousin, now I have it.
It has been maintained from day 1. The truck has 310,000 miles on it now.
About 30000 ago the water pump failed; replaced the radiator and water pump.
I've just recently rebuilt the front end rotors, bearings, tie rods, everything except the steering box.
The torque converter just gave out the other day towing my boat in, but the trans was still shifting great.
The moral is you take care of your Ford or not, the best never rest. My truck is like new inside and out, except for the paint. Original A/C still blows great.
So thanks FOMOCO. TXFORDPROUD.
17th Jun 2010, 20:55
We have a 95 Ford Crew Cab Truck. 7.3 diesel, 4 wheel drive automatic shift. We are having trouble with the brakes not holding. If we are setting at an idle, brakes on, they slowly go to the floor. When engine is off, they hold. We haul a 35 ft Hitch Hiker 5th wheel, or did. We have had 4 master cylinders replaced, the vacuum booster, the equalizer valve, the front disks, or brake rotors replaced, & it has been power bled several times and adjusted.
We have had the truck to 3 Ford dealerships & 1 reg shop.
Anybody have an idea of what is wrong? Or what next to try?
We only have about 80,000 on it.
Thanks
95 Ford in Idaho.
8th Aug 2010, 16:51
Replace the vacuum pump and check for any vacuum lines leaking pressure. I'm having the same problem exactly, even down to replacing the parts 4 times as well. But now I'm changing the vacuum pump. It's probably just not pulling enough vacuum. It's only 3 bolts and a belt to replace. Try that and let me know. The pump is about $145.00, but cheaper than bringing to a shop.
26th Oct 2010, 01:09
Make sure the Ford dealerships and private shops have reviewed Ford's TSB 98-5A-32 which supersedes 96-25-19. Both TSBs refer to the braking symptoms described. One fix is a zero loss power booster that alleviates the "pedal to the floor at idle" problem. The Ford part number is F5TZ-2005-CA and it is a general service replacement part number meaning it is not application specific. Google-ing Ford TSB 98-5A-32 will bring up many articles and discussions regarding the problem. The larger bore master cylinder fixed my low brake pedal problem.
7th Dec 2012, 21:59
Check your brake system. Pay attention to the brake line mounted to the rear axle. It will look like it is in great shape..... but depending what you haul or if you have a load on your truck; let's say 70% of the time, that rubber hose where it crowns will rub on the undercarriage. If you are not afraid of getting dirty, get underneath your truck & look for any type of damp spots. I had a similar problem with my 1995 XLT 350 7.3 Super Crew. Just start from your booster and work your way to the rear axle. You might find a spot that looks like a rub and looks flat.
9th Jun 2005, 22:18
All Ford IFS front axles of this series truck are Dana 44 or 50 for the F150 or F250, the difference is the axle shaft size and hub. Some F250's had Dana 60's around late 1997 like all of the F350's have had. ALL the Super-duty series 99 to 04 use the Dana 60 when Ford went to the 8 x 170mm hub bolt pattern. 2005 saw a redesigned front axle suspension.
True the E40D is weak (overdrive) pre-1996, then mods were made. I have 186k on my 1996 and no troubles. The secret is a huge trans cooler and 15k oil filter changes. The hotter the trans gets the faster the oil break down and wear goes up by the square.
The International T444E speaks for itself. In 9 years I have replaced only the vac pump, cam sensor, batteries, idler pulley, and brake master cylinder cruise control kick out switch ($22) Recommend larger exhaust 4" and better intake for economy. ***The best bet is to use Amsoil for all fluids, you save money "over time" in materials and labor especially.*** Plus things just don't wear!
I have ZERO problems with any of Fords body or accessories.
ONLY 1 COMPLAINT I don't like the brakes!!! They are under sized for towing and the rotors warp. I converted the rear to 4-way disc and saw an improvement.
I told my children to save money and bury me in the truck.
Webmaster-- feel free to repost this as a review of a 1996 F250 diesel 4x4. LakeAmsoil@comcast.net.