26th Jan 2007, 06:46
Have inherited a 1999 Ka2 blue- used lightly, only 18000 miles. has needed new exhaust (the third in its life) and new suspension this year, despite regular servicing. I am amazed how unreliable this car is- back to the bad old days compared with the ther makes we have had in past few years. It drives very well- but I'd never recommend it.
14th Feb 2007, 08:17
I have had my Ford Ka2 1997, for a little over a year now and have had no problems with it until the last two months, I noticed a week before it was due for a service that it decided to cut out when I put my foot on the clutch! I did nothing about it and decided that a good service was all that was needed. Oh how I was wrong! It lasted a week after the service before it decided to start doing it again, now it does it everytime I put my foot on the clutch (I'm presuming at low revvs!) I have not yet taken it to a garage and was wondering if anyone is experiencing the same and could you give me some ideas of what it might be??
27th Feb 2007, 13:47
Hello fellow KA drivers. Mine keeps stalling at lights, and even going round roundabouts. It's doing my head in. Does anyone know what it could be before I take it to a garage and they charge me an arm and a leg, for something I know nothing about. Thanks.
15th Apr 2007, 01:42
To all above whose KA is stalling with the clutch down... we had the same problem with my wifes KA. Two options both regarding the Idle Air Control Valve:
1) Remove the valve (easy to do) and clean out with WD40 and refit
2) Replace the valve and it will do the job.
Works like a treat now!
20th Apr 2007, 03:37
I've just had my Ka cut out on me, and from browsing the web, it seems a common problem on older Ka models (mine's a basic 1998). The common suggestion seems to be remove and clean the idle air control valve with some WD40 (as suggested above), and people claim this fixes it. I'm going to try this tonight, and will keep my fingers crossed.
7th Jun 2007, 07:31
I have owned a ka since febuary. The only problem I have had recently is the clutch. I'm not sure what the problem is, but it feels like my foot is on the clutch whilst trying to accelerate, even though my foot is above the biting point. Other than that, my car runs perfect.
13th Jun 2007, 12:40
I experienced the same with my 1997 Ka, and the idle control valve isn't the cause of stalling. I just had mine fixed under warranty and it still does it!!!
26th Jul 2007, 06:12
I have had my Ford Ka 1998 for just under a year now. Everything was fine with it at the start until electrical faults, such as window not going up or down, then the door wouldn't lock.
After having the locking system fixed at an expensive and awkward cost, the clutch decides to play up for me, and then the car refused to go into gear at the roundabout! Leaving me to push it across myself. If you are looking to get a Ka, I would say not a good idea!!
18th Nov 2007, 21:49
Hi.
I see this is an old thread, but I'm hoping some of you may have come to a final solution with the cutting out problem. My partner's KA has been doing this for a while and was progressively getting worse. We had the throttle control valve replaced, the wiring loom to the valve replaced, computer reflashed, injectors cleaned, new spark plugs, and tappets adjusted; all to no avail. It's going back to Ford this week. We haven't tried cleaning the idle control valve so I'll suggest it to the mechanic. If anyone has found anything else that has helped, I would appreciate knowing.
Thanks.
Marty.
26th Nov 2007, 03:35
Hi.
I've got a 1997 KA2. Like a lot of other people, no problems up until relatively recently! Mine is stalling under braking too - I would clean out the Idle air valve if I had a clue where it was and if I knew what I was doing!
Will have to get this sorted!
Cheers.
Pete.
1st Feb 2008, 06:38
I have had my 1999 Ka 2 for just over a year now. She's only done 32,000 miles which is good considering her age and apart from a dodgy indicator light that works when it wants to she runs perfectly. However in the past few weeks my clutch and gears have been sticking and at a set of traffic lights I could not get it to go into gear at all. Reg Vardy told me my clutch slave cylinder is leaking and will have to replaced at a cost of £500.
Bought the parts myself and got a local garage to it it for £65.
19th May 2008, 16:47
Could anyone post a step by step guide on how to clean the ICV on a ford KA? thank you.
Matt
smat_hi@hotmail.com.
18th Jul 2008, 03:37
My Ka had a problem with the ICV. I am going to clean it once I've got my clutch slave cylinder replaced. The cars are a dream to drive; just wish they didn't break all the time.
Does anyone know how much roughly it will cost to get my clutch slave cylinder replaced?
X.
28th Nov 2008, 10:42
I have just had my clutch slave cylinder replaced on my Ka (1999), and ever since I got my car back from the garage it has stalled under braking. I am going to get the ICV cleaned and if that doesn't work, get it replaced. Has anyone had their slave cylinder replaced, and which has then led to this other problem? I guess the ICV could have become dirty in the process and stopped functioning properly?
23rd Dec 2008, 14:36
Hi
Was wondering if anyone could possibly help me?! It is Xmas after all LOL.
I have a 2002 KA, this week I have been driving along and when I approach a roundabout or have to slow down, all my engine lights come on and I basically lose power and the steering goes really heavy. I quickly turn the ignition key and it all OK. This has happened 5 times this week :-(
Now this could be because I am coasting for too long.. I am really not too sure.
If anyone could post me any tips on how I can get this fixed I would be really grateful.
Thanks & Merry Xmas :-)
12th Nov 2006, 14:11
13th Jun 2006, "which is why after 80,000 miles the top end rattles like a spanner in a washing machine"
Wrong.
Mine's done 94,000 miles. It's had the oil changed and the tappets set every 6,000 miles from new. Top end is silent, apart from the last 500 miles or so before service time when it sometimes starts to "tick" quietly. 10 minutes (yes really) with a set of feeler gauges and a 10mm spanner, and the replacement of a 96p cork gasket, and all is well again for another 6,000 miles. It's called maintenance.
Your other comments on the engine are laughable. It produces more torque at low to medium revs than any modern DOHC multivalve four of similar capacity and "shopping car" state of tune, and if serviced, these engines will breeze 200,000 miles.