15th Oct 2007, 14:19

I've just bought a 93 Probe. I love my car and would like to have it as long as possible. Lately, I've notice a pinkish fluid coming from the right side under the engine. I think it's the transmission leaking. Also, we just starting parking on a incline and used the parking brake and now the light won't go off even when not in use. I would like to know if there is something I can do, being that money is a object at this time.

3rd Dec 2007, 23:34

I have a 1992 1st generation probe and I love it- gets a little over 360 miles to a tank- it has 150000 miles on it and still running strong... engine mounts have slop and the motor runs ice cold- heater doesn't work all that good, but the AC kicks hard!

Two thumbs up- notch.

19th Dec 2007, 22:17

I have a 93 ford probe gt with 296000 miles, great car all original engine parts, except water pump and timing belt. changed oil every 3000 miles, keep it tuned and properly maintained vehicle includes fuel filter and one that everybody forgets is the pcv. best car I ever had, it is a manual trans, its the only thing I can thank fords for. "Pokey"

7th Jan 2008, 05:04

Yeah, so I have a 1993 Ford Probe GT, and it runs good, but when I put it in neutral it idles funny, and I just put the K&N air filter on, but it was the correct one made for that car, so yeah, but besides that I think I have to change the water pump or belt, cause it is making some noise and I am sure that's gonna cost some money, cause it looks hard to get to, so yeah later.

28th May 2008, 21:17

Hey, I just bought a 1993 Ford Probe GT.. with 85000 miles on it. Nice car, but I took it on the highway the week after I bought it, and the engine turned off in the middle of the highway. It said (engine check fuel cut out) sign in the dash so I stopped going on the highway, but car is doing the same thing ever since then.

I didn't have time to take it to the mechanic. Then I took it on the highway the other day, and it died on me, so I thought that it would start again, but it didn't and I had to toll it home, and now it's sitting on the drive way. I think that it could be a fuel pump or the fuel filter.

I was wondering, maybe I can fix it at home? Anyone know what I should do? Can anyone help?

2nd Jun 2008, 22:24

Same thing happened to my 1993 Probe (4 cylinder), which had just around 99,500 miles on it. Driving down the NJ Parkway to the Navesink fireworks in Red Bank last year, and it lost power. Ended up needing the computer box replaced, which was refurbished, and is located inside the car behind the front dashboard (middle air vents). Hope this helped.

28th Jun 2008, 03:40

Hey everyone, I have a '93 probe, its sittin in the shop right now, but I have one. the problem it has that I've been told is frequent in probes is the water pump. the one pulley for the timing belt has been recalled for a washer being too small and grinding against the water pump housing with time causing the pump to go out. its not a cheap fix, unless you know people, like me, or can do it your self. the parts will cost close to $140.

Other than that, the car is AWSOME. I love it, its my first car, bought for $650 and drove it home. only thing that I was worried bout when I first got it, is the odometer read 300k miles :D but it runs strong, when water pump fixed. handles great and everything. I plan on keeping it for a long time.

28th Jun 2008, 04:02

Just thought I'd answer that question; it more than likely is the water pump and belt if it's a grinding/squealing sound. That's what happened to my Probe; been 2 months, haven't got money yet. You'll need a water pump, timing belt and the revised washer for the pulley on the timing belt.

10th Dec 2008, 21:07

Back again for an update from last year. This time I have a 93 Ford Probe GT manual trans and have 327,000 miles and still going strong with no oil leaks and no engine parts replaced or trans parts. Just the fixed exhaust system last weekend, it's all good now. Hope everybody has this happen with their Probe again; it's all about maintenance.

And that expensive oil, you don't need it, I use the cheapest oil I can find and also use it in my Ranger and that has 281,000 miles on it, all original engine and trans. Can't stress changing the oil enough.

Bye, see ya next year with an update. "pokey"

29th Dec 2008, 18:08

I have a 1993 Probe GT and nearly the same thing keep happening (engine cutout at highway speeds). It turned out out the distributor isn't very robust. I don't know if it is the heat or age that eventually requires replacement. In other items, I got pretty bad oil leaks well and the factory radio and/or amp has gone out because there is no sound coming from the speakers.

17th Feb 2009, 13:01

Bought a 1995 Ford Probe GT brand new in Jan '96 ($17,500). What an awesome car!! But, let me make this long story very short: I traded the car in (after 90,000 miles) for a 2003 Lexus IS 300 in Nov 2002 for $750.00. The Probe's engine, transmission and A/C had a complete meltdown and I will NEVER buy a Ford again because of it. That's it.

9th Mar 2009, 06:07

Hmmmmmmm... that's not very encouraging news. And I've read that the 1995 model is supposed to be the best, although most people seem to warn against buying the auto transmission.

23rd Sep 2009, 23:48

Hello all, I just recently bought a 1993 Forf Probe GT with the turbocharged 2.5 L V6.

I love this car!!! It's quite quick. I've drove both the AT and MT of both. Manual is the way to go if you wanna feel the power.

There are a couple of problems though. When at idle, there is a knocking noise coming from the idler pulley, I'm guessing it's due to the fact that the tensioner is bad and the timing belt is a little loose. Well it's currently in the shop. I am pulling the intercooler, the radiator, all the hoses, and A/C compressor and hoses; all required to access the alternator to replace it. The reason I'm pulling the A/C unit is due to the fact that it will be easier to access the timing pulleys and belt with it out of the way.

Note to anybody replacing timing anything. Be prepared; all the valve covers have to be pulled if you are replacing either the upper or lower idler pulleys, which I am replacing both. "FUN".

Altogether I'm replacing the head gasket, water pump, fuel rails, all timing pulleys, the serpentine belt, plugs and wires, the CV joints + wheel bearings, turbocharger, cold air intake, body kit, front and rear shocks and springs, rims, some interior panels, and I'm putting in an n2o system, performance chip, stabilizer bar, lowering kit and all new lifters and valves, new pistons and cam shaft, mainly so it can handle the increased boost psi and the 2 stage n2o kit.

Any suggestions on what else I should do? I plan on this being a show car/ daily driver. I love this car and plan to have it for years to come.