19th Jun 2011, 12:10

Hi. I want to respond to your question.

I would check the trunk light, the engine compartment light, the glove compartment and brake light switch and make sure when you close the car door no dome light stays on. These items will kill a battery within 3 hours flat.

I work on cars and see this type of thing all the time.

I hope this information be of help to you.

Good luck.

James.

12th Jul 2011, 01:05

I'm having the same problem. Please email me if you solve it.

shawn.gustave@yahoo.com

14th Jul 2011, 23:30

I have a 1998 Taurus SE with the 3.0 DOHC engine. I now have 186,000 miles on it, and the engine purrs like a kitten! The tranny, however, is acting up... it's been flushed a few times, and it still "shudders" when mostly in 3rd gear and going up an incline. She still runs great, so I'm gonna keep driving her til she drops.

8th Oct 2011, 23:19

We have a Ford Taurus, and it sometimes drives fine, and then it acts up. Pressing down on the gas around 40MPH, it is running fine, then it dies down and will only go 10MPH, and then it cuts out. If we shut the car off, and restart it, then it runs fine for about 5 to 10 minutes, and then does the same thing. If we try to go over 40MPH, it runs really rough, jumping too. The engine light is back on. We changed the alternator two times, we got a new battery - the old battery went out due to the problem. What could this problem be?

9th Oct 2011, 11:53

What could it be? A lot of different things. But you seem to be bent on the battery/charging system. If you used up already that many alternators/ batteries, then the repair was not done right. The wiring of the alternator could be faulty. I would remove and clean all wiring contacts at the alternator, and at the other ends at the battery, and ground connections to the body or engine.

Then you said you have a CEL. Get the codes so you know where about to look for faults. But don't change oxygen sensors because the clerk says it's the oxygen sensor. Google for the codes so you know what others have done to deal with the CEL. A vacuum leak or a short in the ignition can throw a lot of codes, and changing the sensors won't fix the problem.

5th Nov 2011, 16:09

I had the same. It's the water pump.

15th Oct 2012, 01:20

I have a 98 Taurus as well. Handed down and still running into problems. But everything I have been doing to fix the car is from other Taurus owners.

Saved money here and there, but to name a few fixes:

WD40 sprayed on door latch when dome light stuck on.

Alternator, reservoir coolant, changes, rear and front spring failures, speed sensor, power steering hose, steering pump, and now the dreaded heater core. Located inside the dash, it's a 5+ hour job at a shop. (Le sigh)

1st Jun 2014, 00:39

After I parked my 98 Taurus on the street for 1 hour, I started it to go home. As soon as I took off, the engine revved up to 3500 RPM+, but the speed was only about 20 mph, and the speedometer read 0 mph. Replaced trans fluid and filter, but it is still in "limp mode". Now what?

1st Jun 2014, 11:40

Maybe a speed sensor. I've seen them go out, and they do stuff like that.

5th Jun 2022, 22:30

I had same problems with doors. Hit a pothole and it started. The rear driver's side door was damaged and wouldn't open. Turns out it did open slightly to alert a sensor. There is a video somewhere in here about a window switch. Switch is not bad. Its a wire got pinched at the driver's door and no power to passenger. I know if it won't start the battery might be just a bit low. Causes the solenoid to jam and you have to remove and turn the gear back down. Make sure the battery is full up and it will start.

Also looking around in engine compartment I found many corroded ground wires and the terminal looks green.

6th Jun 2022, 21:17

Must have been a pretty big pothole to knock the door out of its frame.

7th Jun 2022, 18:43

Maybe an open manhole.