21st Oct 2007, 18:29
My friend just gave me a 97 Ford Taurus with 246,000 km. I haven't had a safety yet, but it was running fine for her. The headlights stay on, unless you disconnect the battery. Any comments on why that would happen?
28th Oct 2007, 09:23
I have had a 1997 Taurus since April of 1997. I had the transmission fixed a few years ago. A somewhat common problem from what I hear. The water pump lasted only to around 90,000 miles before the impeller's fins corroded to almost nothing. This is also somewhat common from what I hear. The radiator fluid should have been changed more often. My Taurus was the older style 97 without a bypass for the radiator fluid around the heater core. If you are having any heating problems get it fixed right away. I was losing some heating a few weeks ago and flushed the heater core with a garden hose and it fixed it. If the heater core gets plugged with the older style like mine it can make the water pump go out more quickly and you can lose engine cooling. I had a head gasket replaced a few weeks ago also. Otherwise it has been a nice car and I have 191,000 miles. I get very good gas mileage of close to 30 on the highway. I am starting to look for a new car to replace it. I hope to get at least 200,000 miles before replacement and maybe 250,000.
25th Nov 2007, 15:08
Who ever it was that said the door sensor that's in the latch just needs to be sprayed with wd40 to turn the door ajar light off, thanks that was awesome I couldn't figure it out.
13th Jan 2008, 19:02
I still drive my 92 Taurus wagon and bought a 97 Taurus as the wagon seems so reliable. I had to spray wd40 in the first week we owned it to cure the 'door ajar' problem; that was two years ago, and after the cam sensor failed twice, I used epoxy glue to reinstall the magnet in first sensor. That has worked fine for over a year now. It is an easy car for backyard mechanics, and parts are cheap.
18th Jan 2008, 17:14
I just purchased a '97 Taurus LX, I was looking at my friends Sable of the same year and noticed that her car had a gear display on her dash (below her speedometer) and mine did not. I had thought that it was weird that my shifter did not change colors when shifting to assure the gear that it was in. I then noticed that the gear display was there, just not illuminated. It this an easy fix? Does anyone have this problem/know how to fix it?
26th Feb 2008, 13:29
As far as an unknown coolant leak goes, I had the same problem and found out that a common problem with a ford taurus is the overflow tank developing a hairline crack in it. Easy fix!
13th Apr 2008, 19:57
I bought a 97 Ford Taurus GL with 119,000 miles and have had to have the transmission changed out and now the camshaft sensor is causing the Service Engine Soon light to stay on. I like the way the car drives, but I bet I won't get it paid off before I have more problems with it... Thanks to all who have added comments here.. It sure helps knowing what to expect. I will keep my comments on here as I try to get the care straighted out. Thanks.
12th May 2008, 18:11
I have a 1997 Taurus. The problem is: about every 3-4 months I turn off the ignition and when I try to restart it will not start. I have to have it towed home, and after 2-3 day of parking, it will start again. Mechanics have not a clue as to what is the problem. Has anyone had this problem? If so, I would like to hear if there is a resolution?
22nd Jun 2008, 21:06
I just bought a 97 Taurus GL from a friend of mine for $300. A great deal because the car is in great shape a has only 119,000km. However I do have one problem...
The speedometer needle wanders back and forth between 100km/h and 60km/h (while I drive at a stable speed, usually once I reach 100km/h). Any ideas what may be causing this?
Thanks... :)
20th Jul 2008, 07:25
Thanks for the spray your door with wd40, I am having that problem with door ajar light on also. I do have a question also. My brake lights are not working. I thought if I replaced the bulbs that would fix the problem, but it did not. I have a 1997 Ford Taurus with 119,000 miles. Does anyone have a suggestion?
2nd Aug 2008, 18:56
I own a 1997 Ford Taurus with a 3.0L Vulcan engine.
In response to the shutting down and not restarting... only once did that happen to me a couple months back and it sat for two days and it started and I have not had that problem again. Everyone thought I was crazy, and now that it works makes me even more crazy.
Next, I purchased this car for $500 CAD with 221,000kms and I only needed to do routine brake work to get it certified... car has been great no issues up until the last 2 weeks or so. I have put on close to 30,000kms on it since buying it and it seems like it has given me the opportunity of correcting every common issue ALL at once.
First, the Service Engine soon light is related to the camshaft position sensor issue... I have just left it and has not done me any wrongs.
Second, I was having the same problem of running hotter than normal issues with the brown coolant... I flushed the coolant (DIY) and the problem went away (giving it may be the water pump may have gone for the dumper)..but for now it has worked great.
Third, My airbag light randomly flashes on and off and sometimes stays on permanently (not a big deal for me, except of the fear it may give me an unexpected friendly punch in the nose).
Last, now my car has had a new oil and filter change, and today, out of the middle of nowhere, the oil pressure light came on and my engine is knocking. The oil is still present but is not getting into the engine to lubricate it. My guess the oil pump has gone and I am unable to locate where it is... could it possibly be located inside the oil pan area. If I remove the pan, will it be close by? and how expensive is the part to replace? is it a difficult DIY project?
All of the previous issues were within the $20.00 CAD range when I did it myself, which is good financially as I have only spent a little over $1000 CAD for 30,000kms. The car is one of the best handling cars I have owned and I enjoy driving it... If anyone can help... let me know or email me at kylebonneville@tnt21.com.
8th Oct 2007, 12:28
My parents bought a 1997 Mercury Sable, same as the Taurus, in 2001. At that time it had about 40,000 miles on it. It now has over 170,000 miles on it. The only problem they had was the heater not working, and it was some sort of simple fix. They've also had several routine engine coolant flushes performed over the years. They haven't had any problems, even with my dad mistakenly filling the power steering pump first with water, and then with the incorrect power steering fluid. Based on their experience, I wouldn't be afraid to buy a Ford.
Regarding the leaking anti-freeze, it's hard to know how to help without knowing where the leak is from. Try this:
1) When the car is cold, take off the radiator cap and make sure that the radiator is full to the top. Add coolant if necessary, and then add to the mark in the overflow bottle;
2) when the engine reaches operating temperature, let it idle in park and watch under the hood and under the car for where the leak is coming from. On a 10 year old car, it could be leaking from anywhere, and the problem may or may not be routine maintenance. It could be anything from an old, broken hose, to a stone that put a hole in the radiator, to a drain valve that wasn't closed properly the last time somebody changed the fluid, to needing a new water pump (although that would be odd on such a low-mileage car) ;
3) you don't mention that the car is overheating, which is a good sign. This would suggest that nothing in the cooling system is actually clogged and making the engine boil over, but that you just have a leak somewhere that can be fixed relatively easily.
If it's a leaking hose, it can be replaced for a couple of dollars if you do it yourself--heater hose is about $1.50 per foot; radiator hoses are only about $15 apiece. A water pump would be more involved, possibly about $200. If the radiator is leaking from a pinhole, like a stone chip, you could either have a radiator shop braze it (maybe about $50-100), or you could just pour in some "stop leak" to seal it up. I wouldn't use "stop leak" on a new car, but on a 10-year old car that's just a daily driver, it can be a cheap option.