25th Jun 2008, 16:00

I have an 02 taurus, bought it with 20k miles on and and it is now at about 85k. Right now I have a dead blower motor, and am waiting on a replacement. I have replaced front and rear brakes, and the battery but besides regular maintenance I have had no problems until now. My car rides great and I get 32 MPG on the highway. I am thinking about switching from drum brakes to discs on the rear. Has anyone done this themselves?

29th Jun 2008, 16:32

Adding the disc brakes to the rear shouldn't be too hard. If you are going with Ford units rather than more pricey aftermarket units, you can pick up the stuff you need from a salvage yard. I'd recommend new rotors and caliper units, as well as replacing all the related hoses just as a matter of safety. Keep us posted on how this goes if you proceed with it.I honestly don't think I'd go to the trouble unless you are really into high performance driving.

One of my cars has disc front/drum rear and 2 have all wheel disc. The one with the rear drums stops almost as well, and you really can't tell the difference in normal driving. Tires actually make more of a difference. Good AA traction rated tires will dramatically increase your stopping ability, regardless of your type of brakes.

12th Sep 2008, 00:53

I bought a 2002 Ford Taurus and I haven't experienced any mechanical problems. The only problem I do have is water is somehow getting into the area where my spare tire is, and dampness is surrounding that area. I had no idea I had this problem until I lifted up my trunk mat and saw moisture on my mat, right above the spare tire and water had filled up the area where my spare tire is. I had it drained but the water came back again. I had it checked out by one mechanic, but he wasn't able to find out what's causing it. I am hoping I can get this mystery problem fixed. My greatest concern is how is this water getting there?

9th Nov 2008, 02:16

Regarding the leaking trunk... Had the same problem several times. Best approach is to get into the trunk with a flashlight. Have someone run water all over the trunk, including the rear window. You may find multiple leaks, so don't stop when you find just one. Leaks can occur, 1) at the metal seam on both sides (about half-way between the tail lights and the rear window), 2) at random places around the rubber gasket that goes around the entire trunk opening, 3) around the tail light assembly... in particular the attachment bolts, and 4) around the tail light where the light bulb goes into the back of the tail light module. Silicone works well... use it liberally. You can also use thin, foam or rubber, weather striping on the trunk lid where it meets the rubber gasket.

Good luck.

10th Dec 2008, 18:26

I have a 2002 taurus. No heat coming from the vents. Probably a blend door problem. Took it to a mechanic and after two days he called me back and said he couldn't help. He did not have the required test tools for this car. He said Ford dealers probably the best bet. Anybody out there know of a website with video of the procedures done to get to the magical "Blend Door"??

21st Dec 2008, 13:09

We bought a 2002 Taurus wagon new and have had the blower problems and other small problems fixed, but now the engine is chirping at 140ks which is probably the cam sink sensor, but it still runs fine with the chirping sound slight and of course with the windows up and the radio on you can't hear the noise. Will this sensor make the engine fail eventually??? It's a pretty expensive fix. Or could it fix it self? Could it help to put a tank of premuim unleaded gas in? Jkotulak1@cogeco.ca.

26th Feb 2009, 22:03

Have 2002 Taurus from new, only 49000miles. Have had a valve replaced and 2 battery changes, but all in first couple of years, OK since then. Now it seems to have an intermittent fault, usually when slowing down for stop or light, but not every time. On several occasions, the red THEFT light comes on for a second then goes off, CD player acts like it jumps, but car keeps going. Also, on one occasion, all the warning lights came on for a second, like it was stalling, but lights go off and car keeps going. Any ideas?

14th Sep 2009, 13:24

I have a 2002 Taurus SE, 3L V6 (Vulcan) and has just turned 282,000kms (160,000 miles-ish) and not a problem to report. Only minor thing, power door lock quit and some rust is starting to show (Canadian winters are not nice to cars) This is my 4ths Taurus/Sable I've had a 94 Sable Wagon, 95 Taurus sedan, 97 Taurus sedan and now my 2002 Taurus all lasted me well over 250,000kms.

Sorry to hear you are all having such problems, but all I can say is mine is regularly maintained (by myself) and whenever it needs something I fix it, I don't wait. Drive it nice and it'll treat you the same.

31st Mar 2010, 16:07

I have a 2002 Taurus with 157000 kilometres on it. It was 1 year old when I purchased it. I have had the normal stuff done on it: brakes, battery, heater blower fan, timing cover gasket leaking coolant. Now I have I have a engine light on, but have not had it checked out yet.

The engine sometimes will jerk at 60 kmph, but not all the time. Does anyone have any suggestions? This is my second Taurus and I like them.

20th May 2010, 12:23

2002 Taurus 3.0L Vulcan 120k miles.

Blower motor was only working at high speed, then finally went out 2 months later. Had the lake issue in my front passenger side floorboard. I replaced the motor, and rain hat kit, did it myself. Motor $100. Rain hat kit replicated - $12.

Brakes were left until grinding, no need to say this was stupid nevertheless. Get those rear brakes checked often, these drums are problematic.

Total cost - $680 - Just brakes.. because I won't work on brakes. :)

Cam synchro was chirping at about 100k, but quit after an oil change and has been fine ever since. Oil change - $10.

Car started backfiring and rough idle at 110K. Replaced wires and plugs with Bosch Platinum plugs; word to the wise, make sure you have the right tools to do this, the rear 3 plugs are tough to get to on this engine and I had a heck of a time. Plugs - $22. Wires - $13.

Check engine light came on at 115k. Started to idle rough again, but not as bad. Had Autozone do OBDII test and got a P0316 Code. (Random misfire in first 1000RPM) Checked the voltage on the crankshaft position sensor and was getting no surge in voltage when trying to start. Replaced the sensor and all was well. Sensor - $27.

Noticed water leaking under passenger side front wheel at 118k. Checked and found leak from water pump seep hole. Replaced the water pump to find it had completely corroded and rusted away the pump inner arms. This also was the cause of a (dirty reservoir). Cleaning flushed the block and system for debris and replaced with 50/50 antifreeze. Waterpump and gasket - $37. Coolant cleaner - $8. Antifreeze - $13.

Hesitation and power loss at 120k. Replaced the fuel filter and good as gold. Fuel filter and all is well. Fuel filter - $12.

Driver rear window stopped working, driver front and passenger rear window takes 20-30 tries before kicking in. My next project.

Overall yes, annoying little problems here and there, but overall not that expensive if you keep your maintenance up and don't let those brakes grind out. :P I would recommend this car if you are on a budget. I see them all the time for less than 3-4k. I picked mine up back in 2005 for only 7k with 60k miles. Yes it is a Ford, but no not that pricey to fix. Rides phenomenally and gets great gas mileage about 25HWY and 18CITY. I love the comfort and size of the car.

I have learned just about everything I could about this car during my repairs. You have to if your going to fix the issue for as cheap as possible. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me @ xposure2k@yahoo.com. I will help as much as I can.

Michael

Love my ToreAss