25th May 2006, 13:30

Sure you did all that stuff. Even with a turbo and all the NOS you could stuff in that little engine, it would still do 14's in the quarter mile. And you would probably have to add 200 pounds of welds along with a stronger block and intake manifold to hold the engine together. Anf if some Geo Metro really did beat some stock Camaro, there was probably some Mazda racing engine in there or something.

17th Jun 2006, 20:47

Wamm-puchsss, that's the sound you hear when a Chevy Turbo Sprint goes by, and you get a glimpse, then it's gone! A 3 cylinder turbo running 19.3 pounds boost + more at the drags. Running 10.90s; think not? Visit, teamswift.net, then you'll see high RPM and still smoking ya on half the gas!! Gotta love that ha ha.

20th May 2007, 13:48

I am new to the entire Geo scene and am wondering if I could stick a VW 4-cyl turbo into a metro. I know I would need a transmission swap too, but will it fit?

James_lamb3@yahoo.com.

29th May 2007, 17:05

I just bought a 95 Firefly 1.0 litre. It runs well, but idles a little rough. I have the Hanes manual and thought I would check the timing. Simple task I thought. Hmmm.. Jumper C to D on the diagnostic plug... Well I found the plug, but none of the pins are numbered or lettered. At least not in a manner that a 56 year old can read. The wiring diagram is not much help since it is very generic and the manual covers Geos, Sprints and Swifts, but not Fireflies by name. I'm not real keen on sticking jumpers into places I'm not sure about so I'm stuck.

Nice little car. I'm 6'5" and have three tall kids. We all agree you get better visibility and more room in the Firefly than in the mini van. 993 CC doesn't seem like much, but it certainly chugs along nicely.

7th Sep 2007, 20:46

Stage 1:

-Cold Air Intake

-Exhaust Pipe/Muffler

Stage 2:

-CAI

-Port Intake and Exhaust

-Lighter Flywheel

-Free Flowing Cat

Stage 3:

-T25 Turbo with Custom Mounting or Pontiac Firefly Turbo (if you can find one)

-a mechanic with extensive experience.

Please, don't turbo up your car without having a really good mechanic. They can answer your questions better than the anonymous bumbling 14 year olds who occupy the internets.

Also, unless you're willing to invest many, many times the cost of your car in order to make it competitive, let's allow the 11 second quarter thing to die now. In my experience it's unwise to spend more than twice what a car is worth in maintaining and modifying it. If you get a $2,000 civic, don't spend over $4,000 to repair and modify it. You could have spent $6,000 on an e36 M3 instead and gotten better performance. For the Geo Metro, you're looking at a $1500 car (in good condition). This means that to spend over $4500 total on the car is rather insane. You could have used that as a down-payment on a Toyota Yaris which gets 40 mpg and is brand spanking new.

21st Feb 2008, 12:46

Well spoken, I would have to ask those that claim to have turbocharged a vehicle of any type, what type of fuel system did you use and at what fuel pressure? Do any of you know what kind of power a factory goe fuel line will support? Or better yet, do you even know what -6, -8, -10, etc even means when it comes to line sizes?

How about your pumps? Did you run an external or in tank? of so, what kind? What lhpr? What did you swap your injectors to? Was the pcm tuned for the added airflow, and if so with what software?

I do agree that the GOE engine is tough for what it is. The only way I broke mine was at 60mph into a dead stop at WOT. Killed more than the motor though...

Even still, how about head porting? Or even a cam swap? Who makes that billet blanks to cut the cams from that would cut you one custom?

The moral of the story is, listen and learn, ask questions and maybe you will learn how to properly modify a vehicle.

Oh yeah, what did your timing come in at for max advance under full boost, and on what type of fuel? (see what I mean). Props to the one that can give me an answer!!!

30th Jun 2008, 18:33

Timing settings should be printed under the hood somewhere. Mine says 5 deg. BTDC. You need a timing light (about 40$). The is a fuse block under the steering wheel. There is a computer diagnostic hole (looks like a fuse slot, but it should be empty). Jam a fuse in it. Start the car. Hook the + and - leads on the timing light. Then hook up the last lead (clips over #1 spark plug wire ( (yes over top the wire any were) ). #1 is closest to the pulleys and opposite the tranny. Point the light at the crank shaft. The strobe should light the timing mark. There on the timing cover is a scale telling you the increments. Loosen distributor and adjust. (don't forget to pull that fuse out when you're done) =)

17th Sep 2008, 19:51

To those of you who believe in tuning a Geo Metro, I'd like to add that for the sake of aesthetics alone you ought to consider buying something else if you're really willing to buy a turbo kit.

As for the 1/4 mile, the chassis is a little weak for it, so a lot of welding has to happen and murders your handling. Most importantly, though, it has low torque and therefore a more aggressively geared rear end. Whatever gas mileage you'd like to claim by having a Metro, you're shooting the RPMs skyward over 55MPH just for freeway cruising. Your engine won't last long built for the 1/4 mile.

12th Aug 2009, 13:00

I hate to bump a dead thread, but I have to set some things straight. First a Metro can and has been turbo charged (3 cylinders included) as was mentioned in a previous thread; http://www.teamswift.net/ is a good source for info and 3Tech performance has you covered for cams and heads. Suzuki Racing has the motors covered as well, including a streetable 180hp street motor all the way up to a 1.9L (stroked 1.3L) turbo 580 HP motor. My point is it can be done.

And as to the reason; you said it yourselves, "no one should put that kind of money into a Metro", and thanks to all the F&F ricer kids out there, you can make back your money at the strip off of side bets. Just remember these were the same questions asked to the original import tuners by the muscle car guys.

And for the -6 -8 -10 question; it's fuel line sizes, and they should actually be written as -6an; it's the thread size.

And as for the type of fuel injection, one must use a MegaSquirt system for the ECU; I forget the injector size, but there are calculators online, and an MSD 6 ignition with a boost timing controller, low compression bottom end, and S/S valves with bronze valve guides.

Thank you for your time.