7th May 2009, 09:22

I have a 2000 Denali w/196,000 miles on it, having a lot of the same issues as everyone else. Power windows, wipers, & radio suddenly cut out, driver side heated seat doesn't work right, idles very rough when stopped at a light or in traffic. Very poor radio reception on the AM dial. I really like this truck, but having serious doubts if I would buy another. Any suggestions on fixing the issues would be appreciated, need this truck to last another 2 years.

Kevihess AT earthlink DOT com.

Thanks.

26th May 2009, 13:55

Hi all. I have a 99 Yukon Denali. I purchased with about 150k miles on it and it now has almost 180k miles. I have only put a radiator on it and the previous owners papers are in the glove box with hardly any repairs at all, just small stuff and maintenance.

Now for a question. I am an A/C and refer tech, and this one has me stumped. The A/C in the rear is fine and blows cold, but the freon loses its charge about every 4-7 weeks. This is puzzling. I recharge a few ounces but it just keeps leaking down. I tried new caps, leak stop etc., but no help. Anyone have any ideas please e mail me at mobo96@hotmail.com, it'll be much appreciated, and don't hesitate to ask me anything you like. Thanks...

9th Jun 2009, 11:23

I have a 99 Yukon, just turned 200,000 miles... read all of the comments here and anyone who thinks this vehicle isn't GREAT is not taking care of it (or those who had it before them did not)...

The car has quirky electrical problems. Replace the BCM- it fixes most of them. Door locks not always working- it IS the door actuators- buy them on line and try to replace them or pay a shop to do it if you can't. Brakes- this vehicle is heavy on the front end- the original rotor size is too small for this vehicle unless you drive it like a grandma... if you had the rotors turned because they 'needed' it- all you did was make your rotors slimmer and weaker. Replace them next time with some upgraded, heavy duty or high performance rotors that dissipates heat - and replace the shoes. The rear brakes can stay standard.

Clunky transmission- make sure your get the transmission cleaned, flushed, and greased PROPERLY. AC compressor going out- has nothing to do with the car- my went out after 180000 miles. It's an expensive fix- no other way if you want cool air (I live in Florida and need it.) Suspension and U-joints- unless you are planning on driving it like a race car, don't replace the original suspension items unless they brake- just replace the shocks with heavy duty ones.

A new Yukon is $600/mo. $7200 a year! Put $1800 a year in it for maintenance and you can drive one of these beauty's for $150 mo. Do the math!

They are great vehicles!

18th Oct 2009, 00:14

I bought my 99 Denali in 07. It had 155,000 miles on it.

Problems I've had have been minimal. No A/C; replaced the A/C switch in the dash because it only worked on high, but a few weeks later the same thing; wires have a short in them.

I replaced the factory radio with an aftermarket one, sounds good.

I have an irritating squeak under the front suspension. I've had it lubed only to have the sound return about a month later.

No heat on the drivers seat.

I love it, I always wanted one since 1999. If I have my way, I will keep it because she's a head turner on 24 inch rims / burgundy, still shining like it's 1999, and I love the take off.

Unfortunately she did not start for me couple days ago, fuel pump my mechanic says. He says 700 for another, tell this isn't so. Can I get one cheaper?

She also needs a lower left ball joint, should I replace the upper left, or do I do all the balljoints all around?

Please help - djdebo@gmail.com

21st Nov 2009, 01:59

I bought my 99 Denali new in 99. I still think it is the most beautiful body design in the GMC SUV line up. It was my every day car for many years and now it is just my hunting rig so it only gets 3-4K per year. Currently, it has about 85K. I have had little problems but I have kept up the scheduled repairs. This past summer I had AC work for $600. I live in Texas so got to have AC. Rear drum brakes are still good (after 85K) and I recently added third set of brake pads to the front and replaced warped rotors. That is right. I have only had 2 prior sets of brake pads on the front. I have not had as many electrical problems as most have reported, but I did lose power on a 6 lane busy city street last year, and that would not have been fun at 70 on a freeway.

19th Jan 2010, 11:33

Same ride for me.

The wiper issue is what got me on this site. Sounds like the module so many have spoken of. I have replaced my gas pump also.

Does anyone know what to do about the heated seats not working? What do you buy? Switch, element? There are no answers online.

Other than that, I agree with another write. 150 a month is cheap to maintain the truck. Don't wait until you have 5 problems. Fix them as they come. Oh, I also had to fix the "sagging door". That was the worst so far!

7th Apr 2010, 13:21

Still having window problems. Driver's side will roll the windows down, but the doors will not. Can anyone help?

14th Apr 2010, 12:57

We have a 2003 Yukon Denali - it has started flashing the T/C light on the dashboard, and the reduced engine speed kicks in a lot now. Stability control is always on the dashboard, and as you're driving, the vehicle now cuts off. It will re-start immediately, but it does it randomly as the T/C kicks on and off constantly. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for or how to fix this problem? Any help would be appreciated greatly.

16th Apr 2010, 23:46

I have a old body style '99 Yukon. My brakes go to the floor, like the ABS is on and I was told that it's the front wheel bearings are rounded out that is causing this - any suggestions??? I have almost rear-ended a few at the drive thru.

17th Apr 2010, 11:08

To comment 23:46.

Wheel bearings rounded out? Well, if your wheel bearings aren't round, then your wheels aren't going to be rolling. If your wheel bearings were WORN out, they would make a grinding sound, but they wouldn't affect your brakes.

A pedal that goes to the floor usually means there is air in the lines. Have your brake system bled.