Faults:
Two front ball joints had play when purchased, replaced for $220.
Did the water pump and timing belt at 130,000km for $800.
Replaced transmission fluid at 135,000km.
Replaced the trunk latch mechanism that wasn't closing properly for $100.
Engine started making a moderate tick at 150,000km.
Replaced sway bar bushings and a few rear bushings for $250.
Replaced four headlight bulbs, $30.
Soldered DRL module to get DRLs back, $10.
Replaced windshield washer fluid level "sensor" (not really a sensor). $100.
Replaced an EVAP sensor for $100. (can't remember exact price).
Both front wheel bearings replaced at 160,000km for $300.
Valve timing was done at 170,000km for $200.
Changed plugs, wires, and distributor cap + rotor at 180,000km for $250.
Replaced front and rear brakes, rotors/pads/shoes as well as transmission fluid at 195,000km. Roughly $600.
Switched to synthetic oil at 205,000km.
General Comments:
$2960 + 17 oil changes @ $30, $510.
Meaning roughly:
$3500 in repairs/maintenance over 87000km.
$2300 in recommended maintenance.
$1200 in actual repairs.
Car is generally driven on the highway, minor rust appearing where there were stone chips. Underside, rocker panels and other parts of the body are rust free.
General consensus is to leave the engine ticking. Originally thought it was the valve timings, but had it done to no avail.
Purchased the car in October 2008 for $7000 @ 120,000km. Repairs costing less than 1.4 cents/km vs 2.6 cents/km in maintenance.
Fuel economy is roughly 10km/L avg. Off 55-58L I can get between 600-640km during the summer. In the winter it drops to 520-540km.
I would recommend this vehicle to anyone as long as the vehicle was always maintained it should be in great shape. However avoid all V6 variants for their known transmission problems.
4th Feb 2011, 00:17
Learn to drive stick, and then you'll be out of the misery. Once you do, you'll wonder why you ever bothered with anemic slush-boxes.