5th Jul 2008, 01:45

I have a 2000 Honda Accord SE, and the SRS light did come on, and when we took it in, it was fixed for free. We were told that there had been a recall on that issue.

Anyone know anything about issues with the fuel fill door not opening? Having issues with ours and need to put gas in?

12th Jul 2008, 16:13

I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 that I bought in 2002. I am at 86,600 miles.

The check engine light has been on for 3.5 years. Got that checked right away and it showed that the EGR needed replacing. Mechanic "cleaned" the EGR for me ($70) and the check engine light was back on in a few days. Autozone guys checked the code on their computer and said it was the ERG code again. I went there to see how much an EGR valve was (it was $135 three years ago, so I didn't buy one.) They reset the code but it was back on the same day.

Valvoline guys said if it was really a problem with EGR, it would be shaking and stuttering. I haven't had that problem, so I have put off getting it fixed.

Now, yesterday, the SRS light came on, like everyone else's. Also, the hand brake light started coming on and off (when car is cold) about 6 months ago, not to mention the side air bag light that comes on and off for the past 6 years.

After reading these comments, I am in no rush to get the SRS fixed. I may try a new gas cap, get my son to check the alternator, and as a last resort, go to the dealer to see if I am covered under the #06-099 or #06-009 (both are listed in the posts above) bulletin. At least I am not alone.

17th Jul 2008, 12:21

I have a 2000 honda accord EX-V6. My SRS light started coming on and staying on while I'm driving about 2 days ago. Can someone tell how to fix it please!?!?! besides going into the dealership and getting rejected.

17th Jul 2008, 22:21

"Valvoline guys said if it was really a problem with EGR, it would be shaking and stuttering."

Not necessarily.

Those described symptoms would happen if the valve was stuck open. But, your problem could be it is not opening at all. In that case, your engine would probably appear to run fine, but likely have too much heat in the combustion chamber (the EGR valve lowers combustion temperature) and increased NOx emissions. If your knock sensing and compensating system is not properly designed and/or functioning (i.e., sufficiently retarding the timing in response an input signal from the knock sensor), you could also experience detonation (pinging), which is highly destructive to the engine.

I would not take your car to Valvoline. They (and most places like that) do not know anything beyond hooking the vehicle to a code scanner, which means nothing if you do not know how to interpret what you are seeing and perform the additional diagnostic work necessary to exactly isolate why the code was generated.

15th Aug 2008, 13:35

None of these problems with my Chevy. 10 years 180K only oil changes and one set of brake pads. Go ahead save a few bucks on gas and pay a premium for everything else.

Enjoy your Yamasakies Ron Cook.

14th Oct 2008, 13:11

Accord 1.8 manual shift 1998.

When accelerating hard sever judder until 58mph, gear is irrelevent as is road gradient. The problem also appears when driving at 45 to 58 mph, if the road gradient is flat or down gradient when a climb gradient is reached the judder returns. If slowing down from say 70 mph it does not appear as I go through the judder zone. It appears as if it is related to the lean burn control of the car. Can any body help please.

19th Oct 2008, 21:07

Familiar story here. SRS light has been on in my 2000 Accord EX, reset once by my non-dealer mechanic, but it was back on two weeks later. By the way I also have my clock and odometer lights out and have already replaced the EGR valve. One other strange thing, the speedometer sometimes acts erratically and freezes. Overall the car has been good and I've got 246,000 miles. I'd like to get the SRS fixed so the air bags will deploy if needed, but I do not want to pay $700 for the repair. Anyone had luck with high miles getting Honda to pay for this fix?

7th Nov 2008, 12:01

I have a 2000 Accord EX V-6 with 118k miles and a SRS light problem too. I called the Honda customer service number suggested earlier (800-999-1009) and found the representative very helpful. He verified that my vehicle was covered under the OPDS warranty extension (10 yr/150k miles) and gave me a case number. The rep assured me that the diagnostic was included for free. It did not stop the dealer from trying to charge $45 for the diagnostic or having me come back a week later "when the OPDS arrived". Now on to the low fuel warning light. Oh for the Hondas of 10 years ago...

26th Nov 2008, 09:37

My 2001 Accord EX five speed, 37K miles, turned its side airbag warning light on the other day. Several earlier posts mention having things on the passenger seat will make the warning light turn on. After going through the SRS warning light reset procedure, the warning light came back on.

I next removed a light blanket and a book from the passenger seat and set it on the floor. Bingo! Side airbag warning light went out immediately.

Also, while investigating all this, I learned of Honda service bulletin 06-009 for OPDS (occupant position detection sensor) warranty extension, 150,000 miles or 10 years, that the inspection by a dealer is to be free of charge to the customer.

My dealer's tactic was this - if there is something wrong with the OPDS, all is free of charge, but if there is nothing wrong with the OPDS, I will have to pay $90 for the diagnostic plug-in. I emailed the dealer service manager a copy of 06-009. Now they will inspect my car for free. If you search for 06-009 on the net, it is an 8 page bulletin available in pdf format.

11th Dec 2008, 03:25

I have a Honda EX V6 Coupe 2000. The brakes lights do not work. Everything else works. I have changed the bulbs, replaced fuses, and replaced the brake sensor above the brake pedal.

Also tonight when I drove it home, I attempted to shut it off and the engine kept running and all lights were on, even though I turned the car off. Everything shut off as soon as I depressed the brake pedal.

Are there any ideas?