26th Apr 2010, 04:59

I own the newer shape 1.6 coupe (2002 model, 76k on clock), and for 2 years it was causing no real issues - handbrake cable snapped, that was all.

More recently it's beginning to become a pain. A burst coolant hose and a corroded thermostat housing (along with new thermostat) were replaced a few months back, and yesterday I lost control of the clutch due to the cylinder bursting. A mechanics coming out tomorrow.

The manifold issue was mentioned at my last service, but they said it's not yet a problem, but there are signs of corrosion.

The long term annoyance for me is an intermittent loud tapping sound. It only ever happens when moving, so I cannot locate exactly where it's coming from, but I'm pretty sure it's from the engine.

It's been through 2 MOTs and services with this issue, but hasn't rattled while in the garage!!!

The tapping frequency goes up with the revs - it 'taps' faster at higher revs, and dies down with the clutch pressed.

When it's doing it, if I dip the clutch and rev the engine to 4k a few times, I can sometimes 'rev the rattle out' for a bit, but it soon returns.

Any ideas what this could be??

23rd Jun 2010, 17:21

Please help. I have just purchased a Coupe with full service history on a P plate. It's just started kangarooing. Any suggestions please?

3rd Aug 2010, 12:34

To answer the question of the Coupe kangarooing, it happened to me. I have a 2001 2.0 SE, only 29,000 miles. It started doing the same. The local dealer put it on the diagnostic machine and it was the crankshaft sensor switch.

I had it changed and solved the problem, total cost to have the car tested, the part and the part fitted was 162.25.

However 5 weeks later the engine is now misfiring. It's going in on Tuesday to see what it is. I hope it's only something like plugs or leads.

Can anyone tell me how you know if you have a crack in your manifold?

28th Jan 2011, 07:12

Sounds like a pretty awful car. Which is sad, because the 1st gen ones are rather pretty.

18th Jul 2011, 14:17

Hello everybody! I am just parting with a black 1.6 coupe (Jan 98) registered. We had it new and had the standard alloys fitted. The car has now done 157,500 miles, and won't pass its next MOT due to sill rust around the jacking points.

We have been to Spain twice, France, and all over England.

The only major thing we had go wrong was the equalise valve on the braking system. The tyres go down weekly due to the tyres never sealing properly on the rims. Apart from that, and the proverbial flashing clock, which I see by all the other comments, appears to be a Hyundai practical joke on the English!! The car has done us proud; when we bought it, we had just been made almost bankrupt by a rogue 2.7 ltr Ford Probe.

Now that was a dog and a half, and left us poor!! So the old Hyundai got us out of the crap so to speak. I don't like all the other shapes, so I won't be getting another. I can't understand why they changed something that is a good looking car. Should have just ironed out all the niggly problems with the first model, and left it at that. So my whinge goes on the clock and the wheels. I should have stuck with the steel rims with their cheaper tyres that stayed inflated. It was the best, most reliable car we have ever had!

14th Nov 2011, 17:42

Hyundai Coupe Fx ('98), only 160,000km's. The car stalls randomly at lights, rev's out of control unexpectedly and stalls completely when I press the accelerator. Idles like an earthquake when it's playing up. There's no warning as to when it will strike. No "check engine" light either.

Three separate mechanics have given me three different opinions, but none have found an actual problem, bar one - "I'll tell you what's wrong with your car: it's a Hyundai".

I love the car and want it fixed. The Internet has only made my list of possible problems longer. There are no Hyundai dealers near me, sounds like they were all chased out of town.

23rd Nov 2011, 11:46

I have a 98 Coupe 2.0 SE. Have owned it for 9 months now. When I bought it, I wasn't told about half the problems it had, but as long as they are well looked after and maintained, they should last forever.

I have 180,000 on the clock, and replaced the rear brakes and calipers, radiator, belts, windscreen, reverse light sensor, plugs, fresh oil, and a few other bits that I can't remember now. It cost a lot to get sorted; that's only because the previous owners didn't look after it.

As long as you're the sort of owner that respects their car, I would recommend it.

29th Dec 2011, 04:38

My FX did the same. There are 2 plugs on the right of the engine. One brown and one black; the brown must plug into the engine and the black socket into the air filter. If they're swapped, it stalls.

30th Mar 2012, 11:27

The flashing clock syndrome. I've had three gen 1 Coupes, the last being (which I have now) a V-reg F2 Evo. The first two had the flashing clock. My business is in electronics. If you're handy with a soldering iron and don't mind struggling getting the dash off, it's easy.

The clock pushes out from four plastic clips, and is fairly simple to manage from the back, but you'll put a lot of holes in your dash if you try it with a screwdriver from the front.

The clock wiring is on a connector, so has to come off. Then there is a plastic back plate to the clock, with (if I remember right) a couple of screws holding it.

When that's off, you'll see a big resistor. This runs hot (it's supposed to), but the heat dries out the solder joints. You put a blob of new solder on each end of the resistor, and that's it.

If you're a bit of an anorak, you'll use high melting point solder, and never get that fault again.