Faults:

Tricky brake pedal switch. Pain to change. The after market doesn't work well. Went to the junk yard, pulled a Nissan switch from a Maxima. No problems since. It was a bit of a pain to change.

This car is 21 years old and has its quirks. I have replaced an after market alternator as well as some hard to find/craft coolant hoses on the intake manifold. The factory Bose sub shorts out. Found and rigged a replacement.

All in all I have put a lot of wear and tear on this vehicle. For the cost of $2000 (8/2020) it's held up well. Starts in -10 and A/C still works with 100 degree weather. The car is not without complaints. It has stood up better inside and out than a lot of older vehicles I've had, foreign and domestic.

General Comments:

Decent. It goes. It still had a solid upscale feel.

Faults:

Electrical issue with the car that caused it to just stop running, wherever and whenever. No warning, no Check Engine Light, nothing. The engine would just shut down. I first took it to Nissan because it was 30 miles closer than Infiniti, but after 3 tries, they gave up. Then took it to Infiniti. They replaced parts for $500, and said it was fixed. I got 1 block from the dealer and it did the same thing. After 2 weeks, they determined that it must be the wiring harness, but would not guarantee that it would fix the problem. Since this was the primary transportation for my wife and kids, I had no choice but to get rid of it. Unfortunately, due to the nature of the issue, I had to take what the dealer offered me for it... Yes, they bought from me for a fraction of what I paid.

General Comments:

I was really heartbroken to have to give up this car, as it really did perform well.. Not sure if I would chance another Infiniti.

Faults:

My radiator had to be replaced ($225 to replace).

Valve cover gasket leaked oil ($350 to replace).

Oil pan leaked oil ($250).

Three way catalyst? Had to be replaced ($1200).

Power steering fluid leak ($200).

Now idle air control valve code is throwing a check engine light. IAC valve ($215 without labor).

And possibly a new ECU because of the IAC valve ($800).

Reprogramming of new ECU at the dealer ($90).

General Comments:

When I first purchased the car, it ran great! Rode smooth, had great performance and was reliable. Drove all over the Southern U.S.

But, in the last two years, I have had to replace the radiator ($225 since I replaced it myself, otherwise $375), oil pan gasket ($250), valve cover gasket ($350), three way catalyst (I think that's what it was called - $1200). I will never forget the price of that, because it went out during my honeymoon in Tennessee Smokey Mountains. Nothing better than being on your honeymoon, and having to pay $1200 when you get back home to your local mechanic to fix your car.

Power steering fluid leak two months later ($200). PS fluid was leaking all over my garage.

Now when I pulled up to work about a week ago, my check engine soon came on. When I got it checked at Autozone; it's the IAC valve. Replaced that myself ($225 after tax) and the CEL is still on. I was told by my mechanic that it may have damaged my ECU, and I will have to buy another one. He said they run around $900.

Bottom line, I will never buy another Nissan made automobile in my life. I have a 02 Silverado with 80,131 miles on it, and my wife has a 05 Cavalier with 98,222 miles on it, and have never had a problem with them. Then Infint (that's her nickname) was gonna be our travel car, but with all these problems, maybe I should stick to Chevy's.