21st Nov 2003, 19:34

Bought a used 2000 Cherokee Sport, It is having a problem when put into 4 wheel drive, it practically comes to a stop when trying to turn in a circle or sharper corners. The entire truck shakes and bucks when in 4x4. Any ideas comments. It has 73k miles.

Thanks.

5th Dec 2003, 21:44

Wow. Wish I had known about this site before purchasing my 2000 Cherokee Classic in July. At first, I was in love with it. Then it rained. Every time the roads are wet, I can't seem to get good traction. It slips and slides all over the place. No one can figure out why. (Treads are fine, I put extra weight in the back, etc.) Has anyone else had this problem and were you able to fix it?

I also have the problem with "wobbling", usually between 50-60 mph. And now, the brake petal thumps (very hard) from time to time when braking in snow and/or slush.

10th Dec 2003, 10:45

I have an 1999 Jeep Cherokee and had similar problems with front end shaking. I found one problem common too many Cherokees is that the front track bar can get loose or wear and the front axle will be miss aligned under the vehicle. I replaced the track bar with an after market adjustable along with a new stabilizer and I have had smooth sailing ever since. Another thing to watch out for on vehicles you are buying used is rear posi-traction. This will cause unusual handling under some adverse road conditions, but it is normal and is the trade off for better off road traction. Some of you have real problems, but it sounds like some of you aren't use to SUVs and some of their unusual traits. No I don't work for Jeep or and other car manufacture. Hope this helps!

29th Dec 2003, 07:20

I own a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Yesterday, after crossing a small pothole at approximately 60 mph, the steering wheel and the entire front end of my car, including the tires, began vibrating severely, and was rumbling very loudly, and I nearly lost control of the vehicle. It seemed like the entire car was going to shake itself apart. I thought I had a flat tire, but it wasn't flat. The problem happened three times yesterday, and I was nearly in an accident twice.

This problem had occurred before, and on three separate occasions. I took the car to the dealership each time, and they "fixed" three different things, but now this dangerous problem occurred again.

29th Dec 2003, 22:30

"21st Nov 2003, 19:34 Bought a used 2000 Cherokee Sport, It is having a problem when put into 4 wheel drive"

This is a result of the 4 wheel drive system sync'ing from 2 to 4 wheels. Because you have the Sport, you have the Command Trac which is ONLY for slippery conditions. Use it for any length of time on dry pavement and your system will be toast. You will notice that during any sharp turns, once the 4 wheel drive system is on, that the Jeep will buck. This is due to the fact that the front and read wheels turn at the same rate. If you turn the fronts then one of the tires has to travel less distance and will cause the "buck". This is not unusual. Selec-Trac (a better system that can be used on dry pavement) was only available on very limited Cherokees, unfortunately I've found even dealers are VERY uneducated about the different systems.

I've got a 92 Sport with Command-trac and 2001 with Selec-Trac. The Selectrac is much better, but will also buck for the first few feet upon switching in/out of 4 wd.

29th Dec 2003, 22:36

Yes, the problem is likely the tires that are on. I find certain Goodyears to be HORRIBLE in the rain. My 92 was on Goodyear Aquatreads and was downright dangerous in wet weather if you can believe this. It didn't matter that the tires had lots of tread and were fairly new. I also experienced the Goodyear's dangerous rain performance on a Trans-am then I switched to Firestone SZ-50 - much much better in the rain!

Solution: pick up a pair of Pirelli Scorpions for the rear (I'd get front and rear if I were you). Once these were on the slip and slide was eliminated completely... a whole different, but safer truck. Best investment I've made.

Hope this helps.

19th Jan 2004, 18:26

Just had a problem with the ignition switch (on my daughter's 2000 Jeep Cherokee 38 K miles) not turning and had it replaced today. $265.39 later I decided to look up problems of the same nature and found this site.

Just for your knowledge, it appears this is a common problem, but is NOT addressed by Jeep. So common that when I called the AAA people to have it towed, they said this is common. Further, when I went to meet the tow truck (in -15F below weather) the tow driver asked me what happened and I told him. He immediately responded that it happens quite often and they "just keep towing these babies".

Has anyone had any luck in getting their money back for this repair?? I for one am willing to stand tall and become involved. Let me know at... pnealon2003@yahoo.com.

Regards and good luck with your Jeeps.

28th Jan 2004, 08:48

I had the same problem yesterday. Key will not turn. I called Chrysler and my dealer and they say it is the locking mechanism that is bound up and not allowing the key to turn. Is that what you replaced?

29th Jan 2004, 11:44

I had the front wheel vibration problem on my 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo. A new steering stabilizer fixed it.

29th Jan 2004, 14:15

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Ignition locked up, my wife is out there now trying to get help from Chrysler 800#.

Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.

Also, on a side note, our door locks have been acting up for a couple of months. They make a lot of noise when engaged and the driver's door doesn't always "catch." We usually have to manually lock that door. Seems like it is somehow stuck? Wondering if anybody else has experienced this?

Thanks,

Matt

SF, CA USA.

3rd Feb 2004, 18:28

SOLUTION to Ignition Lock Problem on Grand Cherokee:

This is a fix that one of the Jeep Service guys showed the tow truck driver, after he mentioned that he gets about "one of these a week" when he was dropping my Jeep off...

Use carefully and at your own risk.

1. Remove Ignition key from the key chain, so that it is a single, lone key--nothing else.

2. Place key in the ignition.

3. Tap the top of the key gently, but firmly, with a small/med. rubber mallet. (Top of key refers to the round part that would normally connect to the key ring. This means the direction you are hitting the key in, is as if you are trying to hit it further into the lock, in the normal direction the key enters the ignition.)

4.) Jiggle Key slightly while tapping the key with mallet.

5.) Keep trying to turn the ignition while tapping the key with the mallet.

Note: What you are trying to accomplish, is to get the tumblers that normally fall down around the key--but are now stuck in an upward position--to loosen up enough to fall down and surround the key and allow you to turn it.

Note: Take special care not to hit the key so hard that it breaks off in the ignition.

Note: This procedure is not intended to allow you to avoid having to replace the ignition mechanism. It is only intended to let you start the vehicle and avoid having to pay up to $125 (it cost me $100) to have your Jeep towed to the nearest dealership. (Even AAA or other Auto clubs will only tow you to the nearest service station.)

If you have any questions, feel free to email me. I can't promise a timely answer, because I am busy--but I will certainly try to clarify anything for you and help you if I can... remove the NOSPAMs from the address:

ModerndaymarconiNOSPAM@aol.NOSPAMcom.

Also, I would suggest copying all of your receipts related to this expense and submit it to Jeep Corporate with a letter saying something about this happening with great frequency, mention the message boards, mention what my tow truck driver said (Gets one per week). This should have been a recall matter, but since they didn't handle it that way, they should reimburse us for these costs as it is clearly a design/manufacturing flaw.

All the best,

Matt.