Faults:

The check engine light went on after I had it for 6 months, and no one has been able to find out why.

The timing belt just went yesterday, and because I got to the automotive shop before it blew through the engine, it will cost $1300.00 to repair.

The vehicle has no power going up hills, and is very slow to accelerate.

The heater has broken 4 times, and the air conditioning 2 times.

The paint started to peel and crack after 2 years.

General Comments:

I would never purchase another KIA, they are throw away cars.

Faults:

I purchased it as a used car 2 months ago.

Except for the A/C blower motor, everything works great.

I was led to believe my mpg would be in the 22-25 range, and so far I've been averaging 29-31 mpg.

I'm very impressed and satisfied with this car. Several reviews seem fixated on the negative, perhaps by the time this car reached me all the "kinks" had been worked out of it... All I know is I'm very satisfied with my purchase ,and most likely will buy one again.

General Comments:

Overall I'm quite pleased with it.

Faults:

I had to get a new starter at 67,000 and a master cylinder. But the master cylinder was my own fault as the brake light was on for months and I didn't have it checked out.

General Comments:

I love this car. I have had no problems with it other than normal maintenance. I plan to keep it for as long as it will run.

Faults:

Updated 22nd September 2009.

Note: W- Denotes repair covered by dealer under warranty.

1. Timing belt jumped several notches at 48K miles causing engine to die requiring towing vehicle to shop.

W-Resolution: Dislodged piece of plastic inside timing belt guard assembly and reset belt to proper position.

2. Tailpipe rusted and dropped to ground at 51K Miles

W-Resolution: Replaced rusty tailpipe and tailpipe hangers.

3. Engine died en-route to work at 61K miles- Battery discharged due to alternator failure.

W-Resolution: Replaced alternator.

4. 4 Wheel drive failed to engage every winter season for 3 consecutive years due to vacuum leaks.

Resolution: Note: Dealer covered under warranty for 3 consecutive years until I reached 60K miles.

-After 60K miles I purchased and installed WARN front manual locking Hubs and discarded KIA original equipment auto-locking hubs.

Used Dremmel tool to cut out center of plastic hubcaps to fit over and protect new hubs - works well.

5. Door Lock solenoids phantom lock/unlock while driving. Caused by faulty wiring in door.

W-Resolution: Found worn insulation causing short, spliced in new section of wire in door.

6. Driver door switch intermittent causing overhead lamp to not illuminate with driver door open.

W-Resolution: Replaced faulty door switch – Moisture/corrosion issue.

7. Rear hatch ajar light suddenly appeared illuminated on dash at 71K miles.

Resolution: Suspect bad switch or wiring. Have had to manually lock rear hatch with key to extinguish light ever since.

8. Gas tank leaked fuel on ground and smelled inside vehicle at 80K miles when filling tank beyond 3/4 full.

Resolution: Replaced entire rusted fuel tank assembly $180 + 3 Hr. Labor.

9. Check Engine light (CEL) illuminated at 70K miles (Misfire on #2 Cylinder). Other symptoms here included rough idle (stutter) while idling.

Resolution: Replaced all coils and installed new plugs.

10. Check engine light illuminated at 75K miles. Fault code indicated low coolant temperature. Code reset works for about 2 weeks only.

Resolution: Replaced thermostat. Note: Must be 195 Degree F thermostat or CEL will keep coming back on. [been there]

11. Whenever car is started/stopped very briefly when it is cold and damp (say running less than 5 minutes); the following day it will always throw a cylinder #3 misfire code and CEL will flash after starting.

Resolution: Fix is to reset code and all is OK until next brief start/stop – usually months later when I have to move the car in driveway and shut it off immediately thereafter.

12. Rear door hinge center pins were frozen due to rust causing rear door to be very hard to open.

W-Resolution: Grind off hinge welds, remove and reinstall (re weld/paint) new hinges.

13. Actuator for gas filler flap/door frozen and door flap would not stay closed.

W-Resolution: Fix was to replace entire rusted latch release cable assembly.

14. Power steering high pressure line rusted through at 82K miles causing loss of power steering and fluid.

Resolution: Fix was to replace [to gear] high pressure section of power steering fluid line.

15. At 85K miles, steering wheel developed dead spots and was very hard to turn from 12 o'clock to 2 o'clock and 12 o'clock to 10 o'clock positions. Noticeably more stiff at cold startup. Sometimes would operate OK, but most times it is very stiff as if there is no power steering. Fluid levels OK and belt is tight. Flushed line and replaced fluid to correct problem.

16. Brake pad and rotor replacement every 12 months. Rotors always warp causing pulsating pedal when braking.

Resolution: Remove and replace front brake pads and rotors annually. Do not have rotors turned, buy new ones.

17. At 115,000 miles, steering very stiff and made snapping noise when turning steering wheel. Replaced Ider arm assembly that was badly rusted.

18. At 117,400 miles, power steering fluid was dripping beneath radiator. Replaced both sections high pressure power steering hose. [$189.03 Matl.!] Note this was 2nd hose replacement since purchasing car.

19. At 118,000 miles, CEL came on indicating code P0171 - System Lean Bank one. Replaced exhaust manifold O2 sensor but code came back on. Found tiny rubber pipe end cap had fallen off the Inlet manifold center area stub pipe causing vacuum leak. Replaced small rubber cap with new one and problem solved.

General Comments:

Better suited for a mechanically inclined owner.

Replace auto-lock 4wd hubs with mechanical locking hubs.

Sell after 80K miles if not original owner. Otherwise sell after 100k mile warranty ends.

Handles well in winter snow in 4wd.

Use hatchback door often on a convertible to keep it from rusting shut.