5th Oct 2007, 22:01
I have a 1999 Mazda 626. At 70,000 miles the car will not shift out of reverse, but won't go into drive. The steering makes squeaking noises and always has. The engine light and od light come on periodically. I am probably looking at 1500 t0 2000 dollars to replace the transmission. Money I don't have. At all. This is beyond disappointing. I have never had a car to crap out on me at 70,000. Even my Mercury Sable didn't do that.
16th Nov 2007, 18:35
I have Mazda 626 LX-99 model. I have been driving it for past 8 years. with 108,000 miles on it, it has been running great, but lately 2 of the door lock has started malfunctioning. One driver side door will not lock either through remote control or by driver's side lock switch. This lock had developed problem 4 years ago too and I have to spent $150 to fix it. The other door (rear side passenger) doesn't open either by remote or power switch.
Another comment is remote is very fragile. I don't understand these parts are not that expensive, but very unreliable. A person spent $20,000 or more to buy the car and these small small unreliable parts make buyers frustrated.
I think Mazda should consider reliable factor for all the parts even though it is cheap.
13th Jan 2008, 22:39
I just bought a 1999 Mazda 626 LX with 130,000 miles on it. Ran great for a week, but tonight it wouldn't start. Got in it, lights came on, turned the key and everything shut down. Any ideas? I've checked battery, battery cables, etc.
21st Mar 2008, 17:06
Purchased our 2001 626 4cyl new and ran really great. Under warranty we had the steering replaced due to a bad seal that caused some squealing noise and the cat convertor fell off (just one end broke). That took several weeks to get replaced while it was wired up.
It currently has 120k miles.
Now we get two issues that are apparently not related. The engine light and rough idling I was told was due to needing a tuneup. First time I replaced the spark plugs and fixed it for a while. Next I did get a tune up. Fixed again for a couple months. Now I have replaced the factory spark plug wires and the water temperature sensor and it seems to be good. My guess is the old wires were causing the spark plugs to fail.
The remaining problem is the engine will rev to about 2200rpm whenever I turn on the fan (for defrost or air or heat). Still have no luck tracking that down to determine what causes it but I am sure it will be a sensor.
26th Mar 2008, 16:25
I am thinking of purchasing a 1999 Mazda 626 with a 4 cyl 2.0 16 valve engine. It has a broken timing belt. Have the valves gotten bent?
8th Jun 2008, 19:52
I have a 1999 Mazda 626 Automatic. I only have about 78,000 miles on it. I would NOT recommend buying this vehicle.
I bought this car in September 2007 and have had to replace the following: Intake Manifold Gasket, Serpentine Belt, Alternator Belt, Alternator, Catalytic Converter, New Plugs & Wires. The alternator belt was replaced (3) times by my mechanic, before he realized he couldn't use an aftermarket belt, so he bought one from the dealer. I haven't had any problems, since I the new belt from the Mazda dealer was put on.
As another person mentioned earlier, do not ignore the engine light!!! It does mean something, but it's very hard to figure out what exactly the problem is without spending a lot of money. The check engine light finally went off after I replaced the Catalytic Converter, which was the last thing that I replaced.
Right now my car seems to be running fine, except for the Air Conditioner doesn't seem to be getting very cold. We just filled it with refrigerant and it's still the same. It's almost 100 degrees here. But, I can deal with this as long as my car runs well for awhile.
13th Jun 2008, 22:55
I bought a Mazda 626 4 cyl 1998. The couple were selling the car for an unusually low price at the time ($2400 in 2006). They mentioned that the transmission had been replaced in 2004. Oh good I thought!
Well it's true, the Ford transmission is inadequate and lacks the proper transmission cooler, which causes the fluids to heat up and ruin your tranny.
NOT A GOOD CAR.
7th Nov 2008, 15:21
I have owned my 1998 626 DX since 2001, 4.0L, 5 speed manual for almost 8 years. I purchased the car with 60K miles and it has been one of the most reliable cars I have owned. I currently have 180K miles and have only performed routine maintenance (oil, filters, belts, hoses, tires, etc.). She has gone strong through 8 years of Utah winters and starts up every time.
There are a few minor problems that you'd expect with a car approaching 200K miles; the transmission is getting a bit 'tight' to shift, but still fine. I have had to change the spark plugs and wires 3 times since I've owned her as she likes to foul plugs every 40K miles or so. Some dash lights have gone out and there are a few rattles and paint likes to fleck off of the door handles. These are all very minor and expected problems.
I trust this car to get me to where I'm headed.
19th Nov 2008, 19:55
I have a 1998 626 I purchased with 100,000 miles on it. It ran fine for 6 months, then it started having problems. Had a bad plug wire, seemed to fix the problem. 6 months later, the problem is back.
I had the transmission done. Problem was back again in a couple months.
The engine surges and stalls when braking. Was told maybe it was the brake booster. My mechanic thinks it's some sort of sensor, chip, solenoid, or bad ground somewhere. Read the posts about the transmission coolers, hadn't heard about that.
Do not buy this car used. I hear the new 626s are much improved and everyone raves about the 3s. Wish I had read this website before buying the car, I would not have paid to have the transmission rebuilt.
7th Jan 2009, 09:07
I bought my 1998 Mazda 626 LX-V6 about a year ago and have had problems since. It now has 160,000 miles on it.
First a spark plug blew out of the cylinder and it burnt a hole in the plug wire, so I had to replace all the plugs and wires because of course, you just can't buy one wire, you have to buy the whole set. There I was out about $200.
Then the CV shaft went on the passenger side, there goes another $100, and three months later the drivers side CV shaft went, there was another $100.
Then a week after that, the transmission went and I have no money.
HORRIBLE CAR, VERY UNRELIABLE, DO NOT BUY.
24th Aug 2007, 01:33
I have a 1998 626 LX, and it runs well most of the time (at 79000 miles). It hesitates badly when accelerating hard from a dead start or when it has slowed (20-30mph) from freeway speed (55mph+). If I try to accelerate hard, the check engine light comes on and will not go off until much later. The air conditioner has failed, because of evaporator failure; or electrostatic controller failure; or an air conditioning plumbing clog, depending on whom you ask. Does anyone have a suggestion?