11th Mar 2008, 02:25

Hi, my 626 has all the above problems.

Back in 2002 my transmission went bad from the first week. We all know and agree that we have the same problem; why don't we talk about the fix if there is any? If I put in the cooling kit, am I getting transmission problem away or a m I just wasting money? Thanks.

7th Apr 2008, 13:36

I have a 1993 Mazda 626 2.0L auto... I read a lot of the above comments and LMAO, I'm having the same problems... Check this one; I had my tranny rebuilt. The first time because it was really bad, it was beat and when you put it in gear it just grinded.

So I had the tranny replaced along with the axles at a reputable tranny shop for $2100, it was replaced with 114k. I got 8k miles out of it before I noticed a hard shift between 1st and 2nd gear and a hold light flashing. I called the tranny shop and after numerous attempts... external cooler, adjustments.. etc they said I needed to wait for another tranny rebuild.

So I waited... got it back with a new rebuild (2nd one). No problems whatsoever for a few days (less than 100 miles) BAM! The hold light of death is still blinking and it's shifting bad between 1st and 2nd! The transmission shop insists that I have a computer, sensor, or signal network problem.

Now, after the "jumper wire" diagnosis between the sti and grd, I count the engine light blinks... I come up with a code 68. Does anyone know what a code 68 is... (dealer says if it's the hold light it should be a tranny trouble code) because it's not listed anywhere.

What is going on with these 626's?

Is it the tranny? (The shop insists it's not) A sensor?

A computer signal error?

What is a code 68?

I will never buy the headache of a Mazda again!

25th May 2008, 05:25

This car is no doubt evil incarnate. I also had the tranny replaced about 4 years ago. The car would jump hard from 1st to 2nd and the O/D light would flash. I would recommend a salvage or junk yard I got the tranny replaced for $1100 that way and haven't had problems with it since.

I am however having problems with the IDLING. I've managed to reduce the IDLE SHAKE a lot in this car since when I first got it by replacing the motor mounts, A/C condenser fan, and the IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Valve). After I replaced the IAC the car's idle seemed a lot better. It used to dip under 800rpms while idling at a light with the A/C off. With the A/C on the car would go dangerously low to about 300rpms and sometimes the engine would die. Haven't had that happen since I replaced the IAC valve. However, idling with the AC on the car still vibrates uncomfortably, but without turning off. A mechanic tells me that this may be because of the idle timing being off or I'm thinking after reading these posts the MAF sensor. If I ever get this car to stop idling rough ill post it everywhere I can to help anyone out there.

My last words are that I would not recommend this car to anyone considering buying one. This car has a lot of problems even with regular maintenance and parts are hard to find or very expensive. I'm going through school and working a full time job so I have no other options but to keep it running for as long as I can. Insurance is too expensive even on a used car for anyone under 25..

17th Oct 2008, 13:32

I purchased this car back in 2001 and all I have had are problems. This is the perfect car to make you bankrupt. No matter what you fix or how much money you spend on repairs, there is always something else that needs to be looked at. Stay away from MAZDA. These comments show a history over the years of how terrible MAZDA was in provided solutions to all our complaints and transmission problems.

29th Dec 2008, 15:28

I just happened upon this website and am so shocked to hear of all these problems with the 626.

I purchased (for the bargain price of $1300) a 1995 626 in January 2008. I am the third owner of this car, the previous owners were my ex-boyfriend and his dad before that.

The car had 143,000 miles on it when purchased. It is a manual, which I'm grateful for now that I've seen this site.

Having had the car for just under a year, I just had to make my first repair (at 156,000 miles). Smoke started coming from the front left wheel well, thought maybe something was up with the brakes. Turns out it had sprung a bad oil leak that was dripping onto the exhaust. $300 later it's as good as new. Not that I had $300 to spend 2 days after Christmas... but still, considering that the car is 14 years old and has over 150k on it... not too bad.

I love my car, it looks great and even the guy who repaired it commented on how well it drove. It sounds like if you get the auto transmission, you're in for trouble. But the manuals are great cars... at least mine is.

In the year I've had it, I've taken several long trips and never so much as a hiccup. Love my Mazda... but will always stick with a manual. I of course keep up with regular maintenance such as oil changes every 3000 miles, etc.

pedalgirl@gmail.com

5th Jan 2009, 14:25

OK, my Mazda 626 V6 has 140,000 miles so far.. I have no problem yet.. it could be that I'm not beasting the car or it could be me keeping daily maintenance on the engine and transmission.. if you drive like you're driving a Nascar everyday, yes the Mazda or any car will start showing problems... just drive normal and keep maintaining your car, or you be like the comments above me.. good day.

25th Feb 2009, 03:14

I bought a 1995 Mazda 626 V6 (manual trans. with 166,000 on it) for $550 the other day that needed new belts and a new alternator, but so far, other than the check engine light coming on every once in a while, and then going back out, it has been a great car and runs fantastic. Hoping it continues this way..

14th Apr 2009, 11:04

I've had a Mazda 1995 626 for about 2 years already with no major problems, but last week after been stuck in a heavy traffic where you stop and go very often, the O/D Off Light starts flashing and never go off again. I also find my car struggling when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. I want to thank this website and specially the comments from the ones who help me identify my problem and fix it, thank GOD it did not cost me anything but a few minutes.

Here is my theory of what happened to my Mazda, reading on this site I found that after being pressing the brakes on and off very often, this could cause the master cylinder to get full of fluid and get overheated, creating the O/D Alarm flash continuously, I believe this is what caused my car to start doing this flashing thing, then I follow the suggestion unhooking my battery for 10 minutes and the O/D lights went off after that, now I feel my car changing gears smooth and easy as before.

I really suggest to reset the computer unhooking the battery as soon as you see your O/D Light start flashing, and avoid driving your car until you make the flashing light go away, this will avoid damaging your transmission and not having to replace it, which will cost you a lot $$$….!

It was really worth it to read all the comments on this site and I thank you all, but I really thank to those two comments that help me solve my problem…!

Good Luck…!

SergioSaa.