6th Jan 2007, 12:15
I have an 89 b2200 and I have no clue where the fuel filter is. Any suggestions anyone?
10th Jan 2007, 22:37
The fuel filter on the 89 Mazda B2200 is under the hood on the right hand side. Incredibly easy access!
16th Jan 2007, 11:22
The fuel filter on the fuel injected models are next to the firewall as the previous person posted. However, if your truck has a carburetor it will be under the truck on the passenger side near the rear axle.
Also, the fuel filters themselves are different. You will need to specify whether your truck is fuel injected or carbureted when you buy it.
30th Jan 2007, 15:16
I have an 88 b2200, there seams to be a big hole in the back of the head where oil is leaking really bad... how do I fix that?
14th Feb 2007, 08:31
I have an 88 B2200, and it keeps getting water in the gas tank/fuel line. Anyone else have this problem?
9th Mar 2007, 20:37
I just bought an 89 B2200 at 200,000 km or 124,000 miles (carburetor), when I am on the highway I am unable to go faster than 120 km/h or 74 miles per hour, so if I put my pedal to the floor, I lost speed! but I think there is to much of cold air going in my carburetor (i live in Quebec Canada, and I never did a ride in the summer!). Does anyone have an idea for this problem?
4th Jul 2007, 15:17
Asking for information.
89 B2200 with 100,000k.
Previous owner just put on new head and rad over heated now there is mixing of oil and coolant in the crankcase likely cracked head or gasket? or other cause that is common to these engines thanks for your input.
30th Jul 2007, 16:04
I recently acquired a Mazda B2000 SE-5 and my grandfather and I replaced the cylinder head. However, it seems to be leaking oil and a little coolant. I replaced the water pump and it seemed to help, but there still seems to be a problem, maybe from the oil cooler. I have no idea on the oil leak, but after I run the engine there is burning oil near the number 1 spark plug. o assume the valve cover gasket is the problem. My gas mileage is bad, 15 mpg, does anyone know how to fix that?
2nd Sep 2007, 19:30
I have an 89 Mazda B2200 pickup that I need to find an engine diagram on. I tore the motor apart months ago and now can't remember where the ac bracket mounts on.
20th Nov 2007, 19:51
I have a 1989 B2200 2.2 liter. I've had it about 9 months and ever since I've had it theres been a knocking noise coming from the engine. Tried a lower octane gas, 87,but it still knocks. Truck has 220,000 miles. I use 20w-50 oil in it. Any ideas on what to do? Thanks, Shane.
13th Dec 2007, 00:10
B2200s have a problem with the lifters not pumping up fully, due to wear and small oil ports in the rocker arms. 20w-50 is too thick. Switch to 5w-30 and it will get better. To cure it replace the lifters and clean the rocker assembly
12th Apr 2008, 21:49
If it's helpful to anyone here... I had a '88 b2200, that started running like doodoo, it would run fine for about ten minutes then choke out and die like it was starved for fuel...
If I left it alone for ten minutes, it would start right up and run for another ten minutes, then choke and die... thought it was the catalytic converter, so I took that off and punched it through, then replaced the fuel filter, but after looking further into it, the factory Mazda B2200 carburetor has a solenoid on it, it's about $25 bucks and takes literally 5 minutes to change, and that fixed the problem right up.
2nd Jun 2008, 15:46
I have an 88 B2200 won't start. No spark at the plugs but power at the coil. Both sides of coil get power when ignition is turned on. Please help DAVID basspirate69@yahoo.com.
16th Jun 2008, 02:21
Well I have a 89 Mazda 2200 with 249655 mile. It runs so great, and is a very good truck. I am the second owner.
The only problem I found is that I get poor gas mileage on it. The engine runs very smooth, but I get about 19 mpg on highway and 17mpg in the city, or about 275 on full tank on the highway. Does anyone knows what could be wrong with this picture here? I had been getting about the same gas mileage since the truck had 135000 miles.
17th Jul 2008, 19:16
I am trying to find out what the gear is in my 89 Mazda B2200. The top of the housing has 3.909 stamped on it, but I still don't know how to convert it over to the gears you find in catalogs.
I have a 351 Ford Windsor V-8 in it, and the gears and 4 speed auto trans that came with the V-8 top out at 50mph at 4000 rpms. Can anyone help me out and point me in the right way.
Thanks
Christian Pearson. e-mail if need to sidera208@yahoo.com or call if must at 1-601-307-1498
5th Aug 2008, 22:51
I need some help here.
I have a 1993 Mazda B2200 and I think I blew the head gasket. I'm loosing a lot of coolant and at times it smokes a lot and overheats easily. However, my oil level isn't going up. Could there be any other problems besides a blown head gasket? It would be great if someone could help me out on this.
Feel free to e mail me at spazattack72@hotmail.com.
6th Aug 2008, 20:00
I have a 1993 Mazda B2200 with 221,000kms on it. The engine is great but I having a problem with it stalling. I think its the ECU any other ideas. Harrison.G.White@hotmail.com.
14th Aug 2008, 02:47
So I'm 18, my Mazda is my first truck and I come to find they are very time wasting trucks and a big waste of money...
I really like my truck, but I've found out from other owners before me that the engine has been blown up twice. Yeah, I'm stupid for buying a blown up engine in a blown up truck, so most of these problems I have the answer for you. If your truck seems to be stalling after warm up and dying and running like crap, check your EGR and every vacuum line on the carburetor. I've had this problem and it's not worth replacing everything else like I did; one vacuum line cut, broke or misplaced, and the whole thing is screwed.
As for the lifter tick; I would say it's normal for these little four banger trucks to make those sounds. I took my truck head to a shop and had the whole thing rebuilt: new lifters, camshaft, rocker arms. If your truck is a B2000, they use older, mechanical lifters. For the B2200, hydraulic lifters with a screwed up way to build oil ports; that's why you get lifter tick. Now there are fixes for this, but I'm not going to tell you because you will rip your motor apart and break your truck. My best advice is to switch your oil to 5w-30 and your problem should go away or maybe not bug you as much.
For you guys that have overheating problems, replace your radiator hoses just so they don't blow later on down the road. It happened to me. Buy yourself a new radiator, water pump, make sure to flush the whole system. Get a thermostat as well and make sure you put it in the right way.
If you replace the head gasket, you should replace your freeze plugs, too. It would not be cool showing off your new fully rebuilt tricked out Mazda pickup to your friends, and rev it up to 5,000 and have your freeze plugs pop out because of the 13psi of water behind it. They weaken after the engine has been overheated.
Oh, one more thing, drop your gas tank and give it a good cleaning. You don't want any crap getting into your engine or blocking the fuel line.
I bought mine for 200 bucks and now it's a show truck, but it doesn't look like it's from Japan, it looks like it was built in the USA. Mag rims, dropped the front end down a little bit, which gave it that dragster look. Gutted the emissions stuff right out; that will give it some power, gut number one and number 2 cats, then I put a cherry bomb on it, and man does it turn heads. Nice blue paint job.
I love my truck and that's why I restored it. I just think it was a waste of money for a little truck that has a million problems after 19 years of use, and she has 206,564 miles and runs like a top now.
Well good luck, don't give up on your truck. You will be a pro at Mazda trucks after you find out what I've been through; it's a lot of work.
19th Jul 2006, 02:55
Is the area in front of the valve cover oily, too?
If so, that may be the cause of your leak. It's the front cam bearing and oil is supposed to pump inside of it, but there's no way to seal it, so it tends to leak.
According to the factory manual, they say pull the bearing cap and liberally apply Permatex sealant to the mating surfaces.
I did this when I rebuilt my engine in '95.
Lasted about 200 miles, then I heard a very faint "pop" and the oil leak started again.
I've done nothing further to stop the leak and simply monitor the oil level on a very regular basis.
IF, the front of the engine is dry and the leak seems to be contained to right around the fuel pump, remember that the pump is mechanical and the lever that works it goes through the head and is actioned by an extra lobe on the camshaft.
A paper gasket is all that I remember sealing the head, where the pump attaches.
It could be that you simply need to replace that gasket.
Dean Seaman (gundorps@yahoo.com)