Faults:

Our power door locks have seemingly "misfired" in a number of ways. Suffice it to say that we don't dare to leave the keys in the car when we simply shut the door, whether the key is in the ignition or just lying on the seat. We don't trust it, because the doors seem to lock on their own.

Now, the power locks have a feature that if we unlock the doors remotely but we do not open a door, the doors will lock themselves again. So I am guessing that that feature gets confused or something, and locks even though we leave the car after removing the keys, opening the door, close the door and not lock it.

I am wondering if I removed the fuse (# 29) in the fuse box inside of the car on the driver's side (labeled 'power door lock' in the user manual), would we be able to simply manually lock the doors? I might be simpler. Please advise.

General Comments:

The style is timeless, more so than most, I think.

The steering radius is surprisingly wide, causing maneuvering problems often.

The Miller engine and transmission is sublime - we have clearly been luckier than many owners.

The Pearl white color is still nice 10 years later. But the front seats are the most uncomfortable for long trips that we have ever had in any car.

Faults:

Throttle body adjustment screw fell out. Fog lights were leaking and would not work.

General Comments:

The selling dealer has taken care of both problems at no cost. The car handles like a sports touring car should. The economy is fantastic for this type of car. I experience 22 to 27 mpg if I use premium fuel. Most of my driving is interstate, @ 75 to 85 mph at 27-28 mpg. The climate control operates flawlessly. The interior is extremely comfortable, especially on long trips.

Faults:

I have a 1998 Mazda Millenia S and while it proves to be a smooth riding car with some power behind it, I ran into some problems since day 1 of ownership that weren't resolved. The "rotten egg" smell appeared, which most-likely is a cat. converter problem. I brought it in a few times and they said everything was fine. At 60K+ miles my check engine light went on and they told me it was a cat. converter code, stating it might need to be replaced. By law, I have no case because the warranty expires at 60K miles.

That was one problem and now I face another. My car won't move in reverse or L1. L2 and drive is sluggish and the car doesn't have the pep it use to and you can't feel that snapping action when it shifts into second gear - as I use to feel. Any idea what the transmission problem could be? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

General Comments:

Overall, the car is a good car. The catalytic converter code that came up after 60k miles makes me question the Mazda Dealership I purchased the car from and had it serviced at. I would like to believe that Mazda would not allow any of their service departments to do anything unethical... but I feel that I was misled since I questioned the rotten egg odor the first month I owned the car and then the error was detected after 60K miles. Maybe it's a coincident, but the odor is still there and the timing of the error being detected seems fixed.