11th Sep 2007, 23:39
My 2000 Mazda Protege ES has had absolutely no problems until 290,000 miles. I kept up on all the services required on it. At 290,000 both catalytic converters went and the transmission started slipping. After talking to numerous mechanics and two different Mazda dealerships, I have found that the car is extremely expensive to repair. But being able to run a car to 290,000 miles without a serious problem is wonderful. My mechanic said that my engine is well used, but is still in great working order. I love this car and would recommend it to anyone.
2nd Oct 2007, 00:43
I have a 2000 Protege with only 60,500 miles. I had a tune up early this year and I thought I heard some clicking sound in 1st gear as I accelerated. When I told the mechanics to check it during the tune up they heard nothing. In the last 2 weeks the clicking sound has gotten worse and can be heard loud and clear in the other gears. Took it to a mechanic and he said the transmission bearings need to be replaced and will cost me $1500. I loved my Mazda until this problem came up. Isn't it kinda early to have a major transmission problem at 60K?? My last car went well over 60K without any major transmission problems.
10th Oct 2007, 11:23
I have owned my 2000 LX since new, and have been through a few of those problems. Currently my check engine light is on, and I searched the internet for the code pulled and it said to replace the O2 sensors, which I did, but still the light is on. I have ~170K on it, no major problems, but I have been keeping up with it.
In regards to the person posted about a clunk over pot holes in slow speeds, replace your front sway bar links. Mine sounded like the suspension is falling apart, but everything was tight, and I finally found the source to be the sway bar links.
Regarding cutting off, when was the last time you replaced your spark plugs? mine did the same thing especially under hard acceleration, till I replaced my plugs with ordinary copper plugs, nothing fancy needed, all the platinum plugs don't work very well, atleast for my car.
I also had a rattle from the bottom of the engine, and I found that one of my exhaust down pipe to the back pipe flange broke and the spring was rattling and causing all the noise, I removed it and the noise was gone. It is not perfect but not as bad.
I have owned a 94 protege since new and loved that car till I got rear ended and it was totalled, and since it was a great car, I decided to buy this one, but I think I am done with mazda.
I hope this information can help someone out there.
Al.
23rd Dec 2007, 06:11
I read someone saying about replacing the intake hose. That could be the solution to my problem with my car about jerking while moving slow from start. My intake hose is busted and I just taped it using duck tape. I surfed the net, but could not find a seller for air intake hose for 1997 Mazda Protege. Can someone help me please? Thanks.
27th Dec 2007, 13:25
I have a 2000 es protege with 120,000k 0n it and have had no major problems only a timing belt tension spring broke so I then replaced that and the belt, it was cracked really bad, but after 117k what did I expect? this car has been great on gas, as gas prices do not allow me to drive my truck everyday. This car I put 85 miles on a day and get 26mpg all day.. this car has been a gem and I would recommend this car to anyone looking for a small little car that has plenty of room even in the backseat for adults, as well as enough hp to get on the highway and handles like a go cart...ps, this car sucks in the snow though... only drawback.
2nd Mar 2008, 21:41
To the 2000 Protege LX owner's comments dated Oct. 10th 07, your check engine light can be taken off at your dealer for free. Just ask them to check it by using their hand held computer sensor. They place it under your dash near the fuse box. It will tell you what is up.
My 2000 LX has it's light come on in warmer weather. The hand held says it is the catalytic converter. My light only comes on at about 28F or warmer. If I need a new one I will not go to the dealer as my 170,000 K's puts me over warranty and at a $1000 cost. I will try the local muffler shop for cheaper.
Thanks for the sway bar link tip as I have the same noises. To others regarding the hard shift linkage! It cannot I am told be lubed as in a Honda. My shifter sure is tight and hard to move especially going into first gear.
9th Mar 2008, 16:59
I own a 2000 Mazda Protege ES. It has 117000 miles on it. I bought this car from a girlfriends parents for 500 bucks, just because they wanted to get rid of it.
My check engine light is on now, and I had it checked and they said it was the catalytic converter. Is it expensive to fix this? I heard up to 500-1000 to get a new one.
Also, I have heard that if you shove something in the tail pipe through the converter, that it is an easy way to fix it. Does anyone have any suggestions about this? Thanks.
2nd Jun 2008, 20:13
I own a 2002 Mazda Protege' ES. We bought it used in January of 2005. We have had nothing but problems with this car. The cylinder head had to be replaced at 70,000. Less than a year after that the engine had to be replaced because it was starving the top end. Now at 130,000 the transmission is slipping between 3 and 4th gear. The dealer says that the transmission needs replacing or a rebuild. He says a new transmission is going to cost me 4-5,000 dollars. I was wondering if tightening the bands on the transmission would help.
10th Sep 2007, 11:51
I just bought a 2000 Mazda Protege 4 door sedan. I have had no major problems so far, but have not had the car long either. My car is a 5 speed so slipping tranny isn't an issue, but, has anyone else got a small banging in the front end when you go over small pot holes and ruts? The struts seem fine and so do the ball-joints. Any ideas? I also have a very stiff shifter movement; are there bushings in the shift socket that wear out, like Hondas?
Overall the car is OK, but it also revs too high for about the first minute after start and I can't find out why.
Now my final comment, (which really puzzles me); why does the car rev so high at highway speeds 100-120 Kph (60-80 mph)? This car is a 5 speed, but still gets close to 3000 rpm on the highway. I have driven cars and big suburbans, all stay neatly around 2000 rpm when cruising. Does anyone know why?