Faults:

O2 sensor.

Horn.

Spark plug stem.

General Comments:

Extra checks when buying a Pajero iO:

- Check engine light. Flashing or constant is significant. This can be several things, but if it's the oxygen sensor this can be costly as it's problematic to fix. Running on three cylinders is less of a problem. Simply identify the malfunctioning cylinder and the transformer/stem.

- Be sure the horn functions. If it doesn't, walk away as you need this for MoT and it's a can of worms to fix. Sometimes the horn will just start to sound so the fuse had been pulled for a reason.

- Check the fuse boxes to see if any fuses are missing. Specifically horn and heated rear screen. Be aware that fuse boxes have "gaps".

- Look for rust underneath.

- Fog lights are a worthwhile extra as they function as cornering lights.

Faults:

Oxygen sensor.

Transformer stem.

Alternator belt.

Mitsubishi tick.

General Comments:

The check engine light covers a multitude of sins.

Whether steady or flashing is significant. The O2 sensor can be expensive (21,000 yen) and difficult to access. Fortunately there's only one. Also difficult to remove, although a 22mm open-ended should do the trick if you work it back and forward. From 100,000 km the stem insulation on the stem from the transformer to the spark plug can fail causing a misfire at the spark plug end. Easily fixed, especially with a complete transformer/stem from a donor. But there are four of them to work through.

The dreaded Mitsubishi tick will cause Shaken failure as the hydrocarbon reading is too high to pass on emission. This may be the stems of the inlet valves have carboned up as the lubrication hole on the valve lifters is too small (1.0mm). The later ones changed to 0.3mm. This is essentially a write-off "kiss of death" on a 20-year-old. The 2.0- and 1.8-litre engines may be different in this regard. Later engines had the modification. Poor fuel economy is a clue.

The plastic radiator can split if the engine overheats.

The big plus with an iO is its ability to cope with deep snow. Both ice-covered up hill and downhill slopes. Way better than a Subaru. The secret is diff-lock, in addition to 4WD and LSD. Engaging Low and taking out of overdrive (and obviously engaging difflock) is the way to tackle a steep downhill ice covered slopes. But no way can you stop! The problem with snow driving is the other vehicles rather than the conditions. Snow tyres, obviously, year-round preferably.

Jack, the Japan Alps Brit

Faults:

Clutch failure - replaced with a new clutch damper.

Super select - works but will not go into 4wdL.

General Comments:

Great car to drive.

Brilliant gearbox.

Could maybe do with a 6th gear?

Highly underrated off-roader (very capable even without low-range).

Central differential locker works great.

Not underpowered.

Fun car to drive.

Mostly comfortable.

Faults:

Not much.

Driver's electric mirror is a bit dodgy.

Hitting a bump caused a drip-drip water leak from the N/S. Rad sealer fixed it.

General Comments:

An all-function, no-fashion off-roader for bad conditions, especially snow. Buy assuming you will be the last owner. It's the sort of car you run on snow tyres year round.

- Transmission is over engineered

2WD/4WD, can switch on the move. O/D, LSD rear, central diff locking, crawler gear, auto and manual options. Dash light that shows 2/4WD can malfunction and flash, but no worries; it's just the electrics playing up. Better than a Forester in deep snow.

- Shielding

Sump shield, thin plate but foam rubber between sump. Totally inadequate for bad bumps, so you might as well remove it for extra cooling. Alternatively, get another from a donor and double-skin. Or as template for making a heavy duty guard.

Fuel tanks (there seem to be two) are shielded in the same thin plate material, but adequate as a stone guard.

Propshaft universal joint into rear diff has a H/D shield.

- Ground clearance

Good, but central diff cross-member sticks down. Could be an issue in deep snow.

- Suspension

Quite stiff in standard form. Steering alignment never seems to need adjusting.

- Brakes

Disc/drum. The plungers on the fronts need greasing when you change pads. Adequate, especially with ABS; drums on the rear are hardly a deal breaker.

- Power steering

Belt squeaks/slips so you briefly lose power steering when you go through water. Adjustment is not that easy.

- Electrics

The standard battery is small. Changing to a larger battery means you have to address that small/large terminal pillar terminal issue. Changing the headlight bulb on the battery side is a problem, especially as disconnecting the battery means you have to reset the tickover.

Discoloured headlight lenses exacerbates dismal performance. However, bumper-mounted fogs serve as cornering lights.

- Handling

A bit choppy, especially the short wheelbase version. Can't get it to handbrake turn.

Grips well in 4WD.

- Tyres/wheels

215/70/16 seems over-tyred, and for snow a narrower wheel/tyre would be an advantage. However, 21mm wheel nuts with deep fixing means that although 16" Toyota/Nissan wheels fit (if you drill out the holes), you will also need spacers. Best advice; don't go that route.

- Engine

The stem that takes HT to the spark plug shorted out, but even on three you can get around. Standard servicing is relatively easy once you get that useless sump guard out of the way. Note that the fuel filter is fitted above the fuel tank.

One tip: Use spacers on the seat belt buckles to prevent movement so you buckle up on the move.