Faults:

Too much surface rust appearing under the paint all over the body. Rotting from the inside??

Too much body rot in structural areas.

It has the famous radiator support rot, right where the engine cradle bolts onto. This could potentially make the vehicle unsafe to drive.

Can you say, planned obsolescence?

I think these vehicles were made of powdered rust that was melted down, and made into 'new' cars. Good job, Nissan.

Needless to say, this problem will be a massive PITA to correct.

Otherwise, the car runs and drives excellent.

If only Nissan chose to use REAL STEEL to build their vehicles.

A recall on these vehicles for the structural rust problems should be made!! Nissan should own up.

General Comments:

Nice interior.

Bad design on the carpeting: too much spongy underlay, which holds water and rots out the floor pan.

Four wheel disc brakes: good if you are racing, but in regular day-to-day driving, all they do is get rusted out.

Powerful engine, the 3.0 litre DOHC loves to rev.

Faults:

Starter.

Alternator.

Air compression unit.

O2 sensors.

Leather seats wearing badly.

Check engine light comes on and off on its own.

Loud popping noise from the front end.

Both U joints had to be replaced on the front end.

General Comments:

I was very disappointed in this vehicle. I am the second owner of this car. After having the car for 3 months, I had to have the air compression unit replaced, which cost me 350.00. Then the alternator went out the following month, which cost 750.00.

I had the vehicle out of the shop for 1 day after having the starter and u-joints replaced at a cost of 600.00, and the check engine light is on, along with a loud popping noise from the front end.

Faults:

First, let me say it has been nothing but a money pit, one for Nissan's bank. I will never buy fake prestige again. Bought a Ford Crown Vic almost 2 years ago, infinitely a better vehicle than the Maxima.

I paid $12000 for the Maxima in 2005, and have racked up $8000 in repair bills as of the date I finally unloaded it. Never again.

Faults:

MAF replaced at 115000.

Primary and secondary O2 sensors replaced at 118000.

Every front alignment piece changed almost right away (upgraded to MOOG).

Battery changed at 158000.

Rear shocks at at 160000.

Replaced every gasket in the engine bay.

Changed transmission pan, oil and filter.

Repaired exhaust (continuous).

General Comments:

Fast - just ridiculous for a car its size.

Cavernous trunk.

Handles like a race car.

Lots of toys.

I get 8.9-10L/100km in summer and 12-13 in winter.

To those who need to do some repairs. Please note that an inexperienced DIYer with little tools should not attempt any engine repairs. It's simple when things go right, but horribly difficult when they go wrong without the backup of a stock of tools.

That said, it took me 18 hours to change every gasket in the engine bay, clean the intake, paint the valve covers and put it all back. It's simple if you follow step by step the Factory Service Manual (FSM). BUT, have a 10mm and 12mm long socket and a 10mm and 12mm short drive wrench and socket (for the rear bolts holding the plenum in place on the firewall side. Very tough to get at otherwise. You will likely scratch up your knuckles). A few elbows would not hurt either.

Email me at apollo111111@hotmail.com if you get stuck or want some guidance as to how to diagnose your issues. I have had them all, and spent 122 hours with mechanics and Nissan techs. Trust me, I probably know what's wrong with it, and what tests you need to do to stop ripping your hair out!