27th Feb 2006, 14:40

Hi M.

I'm having the exact same problem with my Nissan 2000 Maxima. I've actually had 3 problems, but now I'm just down to the car stalling in Park and at Stop Lights. Is your service engine soon light on?

My Service Engine Soon light was on and I took it to Autozone and they hooked a machine up to see what "Codes" would show up.

One Code said I needed and replaced my Camshaft Position Sensor and that solved that code from coming on. The other Code was a P0140 which is the rear O2 Sensor. I looked under the car and saw the ground wire was detached to the Catalytic converter so I re attached it and that cured that.

My Service Engine Soon light is no longer on and it just stalls at idle in park and at stoplights. I have to keep restarting it and it's a real bummer. I like my Nissan Maxima too!

I'm going to check out the Throttle Position Sensor and see if that is it.

I hope some of this helps you or someone else having our Maxima problems.

Brian.

1st Mar 2006, 11:40

My 2000 Nissan Maxima wouldn't start suddenly today without any warnings in the past. I checked the battery and find it's OK. The last time of my drive was four days ago.

This car drove only 45000 miles. One coil was replaced at about 40k when the engine run roughly and the check light was on. Everything looks fine until recently changing the oil. After the oil changed and tire was rotated, I feel the car run somewhat roughly in low speed. But not a apparent problem until this morning.

I'll appreciate for any suggestions to the problems that I have.

4th Mar 2006, 14:54

I have a 97 Mamixa stick with 130K miles on it. Has run beautifully for 9+ years until 6 weeks ago when it started stalling frequently. Thought is was bad gas, water in the gas. Switched stations. Did the Dry Gas and carb cleaner thing. Still stalling. Occurs when coming off the highway and coasting to a stop sign or stop light. On steady incline or decline, it feels sluggish like not enough oxygen or gas is getting into the system. I replaced the fuel filter ($10.00 at Pep Boys). My mechanic friend switched out the spark plugs (never replaced), Coils looked OK. Still stalls. Car died in extreme cold weather. Replaced battery an alternator. Still stalls. Took it to Cherry Hill Nissan. Idle Air control Valve looked fine. No computer codes at all. Identified by connector on the Mass Air Controller. They replaced and re-terminated the connector for $276.00 Next day is stalled 6 times on the way to work. It stalls after 30 minutes of drive time. Any other clues or websites suggestions? Cherry Hill Nissan advised me that no Tech Service Bulletins exist on this. Glad, but saddened, to see others are having the same problem as I am. Sterling in Cherry Hill.

17th Mar 2006, 11:50

I have a 2000 Nissan maxima that I purchased on April 1,2005 it has not given me any problems until recently around November, December when my service engine soon light came on. I took it to the shop and they ran a test on it, it came up that it was my catalylic converter. The light went out afterward, but later down the line it came back on. It is in the shop as I type this letter and the codes are P0420 and P0430 which means its my catalylic converter. All the mechanic can tell me now is it is expensive. I am still waiting for an official answer. But other than that my Maxima has been good to me. My car is not driving any different, its just the service engine light and I was told that my car would not pass inspection!

21st Mar 2006, 22:01

Catalytic Converters are covered for 8 years or 80K miles under Federal regulations on a Maxima. If you have under 80K on your maxima then mention it to the dealer because they always "forget" to mention it.

23rd Mar 2006, 07:50

I have a 99' Nissan Maxima SE (117,000 miles) and it has been running rough at idle or start usually when cold starting. I replaced the fuel filter and air filter. I have a service engine light on and after being scanned # P 1320,ignition signal primary circuit fault. I replaced all six spark plugs myself at over $60 and was thinking that would solve it. Well this morning I started the car and it ran rough again. I noticed when changing the plugs that one of the cylinder's # 1 had looked like it was the one that could have been the problem threads on plug were wet. I now have read this forum and realize that the ignition coils are more than likely the reason for this. I just called my local auto parts place and took a chance and ordered all six at $426, Nissan wanted $620 parts only. I will be replacing them tonight when my wife comes home. Five hundred dollars for a tune up is a lot of money, but I do love my Maxima and my wife. I hope this will solve the rough idle. I will let you know the outcome of this soon.

24th Mar 2006, 21:19

Hey let me know how your 99' Nissan Maxima SE (117,000 miles) drives after the coil install. Looks like I have the same problem on my 2000 Maxima SE (63,000 miles) - rough idle and misfire. Well, at least replacing the MAF sensor was an easy install at $87.00. I used OBD 2 Actron and the code read P1320. I will purchase both rear & front coil@$69.99ea. from local Auto zone store part# C1266. Very expensive, but well worth it! Just follow the manual and don't forget to remove the rocker cover with 4 hex screws 00+ rest should be easy. Only hard part is driving myself to the store with this bugger. LOL.

21st Apr 2006, 16:55

I had a '95 Maxima that had similar issues described above - it would occasionally stall and seemed to be loosing power. I ultimately cleaned the throttle body / mass flow sensor and it fixed the problem.

30th Apr 2006, 21:39

Yeah, same problems. Also cleaned the TB and changed the MAF.

I've never felt so much power from the Max and hasn't stalled since the TB cleaning.

3rd May 2006, 15:25

I've always put premium (91 octane) gas in my 2000 Maxima (85,000 miles), but what with the price of gas, I tried filling up with mid-grade (89 octane). It may be just a coincidence, but the Check Engine Light came on soon after. Borrowed a code scanner from Autozone - it was Code P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). I think this can also mean bad oxygen sensor (s). Cleared the code, but the Oxygen Sensor Monitor is showing Not Ready for several days now. Supposedly the ECM is looking for a particular drive pattern before it will reset the Monitor to Ready. Does anyone know what it's looking for? Could it be something to do with the mid-grade gas? It's a shame if I have to replace the oxygen sensors at several hundred dollars just because I tried to save a dime per gallon.