10th Sep 2007, 18:20

I just checked and got a knock sensor code. Car would not start so I cleared the code and checked the gas cap. It felt loose so I will replace that, and after clearing the code and retightening the gas cap, the car starts fine.

12th Sep 2007, 15:32

OK I am having almost the exact opposite problem of some of you guys with the check engine light. I can't get the darn thing to turn on. The reason this is a problem is because in NJ it won't pass inspection with out it illuminating. So I took the dash out... checked the socket for juice...good. Checked the Bulb...good. Anyone out there either know how to fix this or have had this problem?

26th Sep 2007, 00:54

Hello, I have a 1996 Maxima. It runs great; never had a problem with it, but now I'm at 140k miles and the cel came on. I was told it was a knock sensor and purge valve solenoid, but it still runs fine other than the rpms are low and shift awkwardly. I think if I replace the knock sensor and replace the other sensors, this car will be strong and last.

I would recommend to just fix the sensors, but shop around; the prices on all the parts I bought were very different, from ridiculous to good cheap parts. So don't be a fool; use a computer to shop!!!.

27th Oct 2007, 12:13

I have a '99 Maxima SE and I've had several problems with oxygen sensors in the past. I have recently had problems with the coil packs and the knock sensor. Apparently there is a service bulletin to replace all the coil packs (according to the dealership). All in all, it would cost me $1500 to replace them, together with the knock sensor. I replaced the coil packs myself, and I am wondering where the knock sensor is located in this car. I am a real novice when it comes to engine repair. Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks.

7th Nov 2007, 22:58

I own '97 Maxima GXE since '99 (42000km). Didn't have any major problems until this year (it now has 148000km, around (90,000 mles). CEL keeps coming up. Symptoms were that (intermittently) if RPMs are around 1500-2500, RPM needle would vibrate (300-400 RPMS) and it wouldn't react on accelerator pedal further depressed. If I lift my foot of the pedal for a second it would go back to normal until next time. The problem is that the next time might be in 10 seconds or 2 days. So far, I had NOx replaced (the code was there, although sensor checked out in the test procedure), fuel filter, and after another CEL one of the rear O2 sensors. 10 minutes after I drove out from the mechanics the same unresponsivness and "wobbly" RPM needle between 1500-2500. I want to buy a new car, but I am currently without a job and I can't keep pouring money into this.

Does anybody know if the computer needs to be reprogramed after replacing NOx or O2 sensors, and if it does, what is the procedure?

Thanks for any help coming this way.

25th Nov 2007, 01:14

That is true only in some states. My vehicle passed the Texas state inspection with the Service Engine Soon light clearly illuminating. In fact, it had done so the previous year and passed the inspection. It all just depends on what actually is wrong with the vehicle. I know someone who owns a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am and her light stays on all the time.

5th Feb 2008, 22:07

What is wrong with you guys!!! Someone spending $950 for the sensor, and someone spending $1500. Come on people. Use your computer to shop.

If your car is not as fast as it used to be, and the car has more than 80000 miles on it, then just do yourselves a favor; go to eBay (or shop around) and buy yourselves a KNOCK SENSOR, FRONT AND REAR O2 SENSORS. I paid 52 shipped for the knock sensor, and it was Nissan part too. I changed it myself. It took me about 25 minutes. In about an hour or so I was done with all the sensors.

So moral of the story is that, shop around, and go to maxima.org or other forum sites, so you can search and get information, and install those sensors yourself.

Good luck.

6th Mar 2008, 21:32

I have a 1997 Maxima. The check engine light came on a couple months ago. The mechanic indicated the codes were for knock sensor and EGR valve. I already had EGR valve replaced six months ago. Anyway, the battery cables were corroded so he cleaned them and reset the light. It came back on two months later for two weeks and turned off again. We haven't been using premium gas. Can that make a difference?

25th Sep 2008, 16:56

In reference to the August 20, 2008 previous post, I let my school auto class place my car on the diagnostic machine and it only coded for knock sensor. After about 5 fill-ups, the light has gone back off. Hopefully for good, no more cheap gas for me!!!

5th Oct 2009, 20:20

I have a 97 SE 5 speed with a locking diff.

I have have the engine light on since I bought the car, 40,000 ago.

When I used the Checkers code tester, it reported a knock sensor and air temperature sensor.

I have a cold air intake, again I bought it this way. and the air temp sensor is not even hooked up.

The knock sensor is a common item to break; splits in the body of the sensor.

There are several sites that show how to replace the knock sensor in 30 to 45 minutes. I paid $61 dollars for the sensor from Checkers. Without fixing or replacing anything, I have past emissions twice here in Denver.

I have found the Maxima very easy to work on. I have done the shocks, brakes, tire, and replaced both half shafts.

This is one of, if not the best engines Nissan has ever built (95-99). The locking diff is great in the snow. I have never used anything but 91 octane fuel!

This is not a car for a kid. I am not sure what the HP is on my car as there are a few mods on it with a cold air intake and over sized exhaust for two, but I can get 30 MPG if I drive sensible, and be at 80 MPH in third gear getting on the freeway in a VERY short time.

I had a 92, another great car, and my wife drives a 98 GLE Maxima. As several people have stated, research everything online, and shop for prices on parts. PS specialized tools are free for the use at Checkers, just ask.