9th Aug 2007, 12:56
Hello fellow 2000 Maxima owners (Part 2).
I just got done replacing the MAF sensor last night. I took on this project myself because of the great advice in this forum. (If you are going to try this at home, remember to remove the negative battery terminal to reset the car's computer. In a previous comment, I noticed someone said it was an easy fix because it only has four bolts. This is true, however, you need to take out the entire air box to get at the last bolt. It's still a pretty easy fix.) The SES light is off and the car is running like a champ. Lets keep our fingers crossed that the SES light stays off.
Thanks to everyone on this forum. It's very helpful to know how to keep my car out of the dealership, and the dealership out of my wallet.
28th Aug 2007, 15:22
Hello all; like almost everyone who posted, I too am having problems with the SES light on my 2000 GXE. The SES light first came on when I switched from premium gas to mid-grade; it came on and off for a few days, then stayed on. I had it checked and was told I needed a major tune up (350.00); I got the tune up and the light went off for a few days. The mechanic said that if the light came back on then I needed a catalytic converter. I failed emissions because the light was on and the code read "catalyst system functioning below threshold." I then had a catalytic converter installed, and about 500 miles later the light came back on. I thought my light must be broken, so I took the emissions test again and failed. Now I don't know what to do. Any suggestions?
16th Sep 2007, 09:41
Hello A]all, I have a 2000 Maxima GLE. I also have problems like SES light on and the code is P0171. I guess the MAF is the problem after so many comments in the forum. I bought one from Nissan shop. I was trying to replace the MAF. I removed all the bolts, but still I was not able to take the airbox outside as the MAF is not coming out. Is there anything else I have to do?
Thanks in Advance.
21st Oct 2007, 21:14
2000 Maxima GLE 85k miles. Purchased 05 with 55k miles.
CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ISSUES.
Private Shop replaced one coil @ 65k miles. $200. Dealer wanted to replace all.
Private Shop replaced MAF sensor @80 miles. $500.
Check engine light came back on. Shop says probably needs a cat. converter. Codes showing bad O2 which could go either way. Still driving great and getting 27mpg on highway. We don't have emission tests in this state, so I'll probably continue driving.
My mechanic is a good buddy. He says the MAF sensor caused the car to run rough and also caused the front conv. problems. Far as replacing O2 or conv.s, he says it can be costly because there several of each.
His advise... always repair a bad coil, spark plug, and MAF. The O2's and cat.conv.'s or your choice... unless you have emission testing. They will cause the light to come on, but shouldn't cause damage to other parts.
29th Oct 2007, 17:31
Hello fellow Maxima owners...I'm having the same problem and then some as all of you.
Recently my girl's 2000 Maxima started hesitating and running terribly for a while. The tach would go haywire and it would run awful. I myself had the same problem with my 95 Accord. Did a test on it at 2 garages and were told by both that all 6 coils had to be replaced. (My Accord only had 1 coil and it fixed the problem, only cost me 60 bucks) Did the wise thing and only bought two, and in the process of finding the problem child. Only had one little hiccup since starting with the first two.
About 4 months ago while leaving an amusement park, the brake and battery light came on. After just a little while I restarted the car and the lights went off. Now fast forward to today and the lights have been going haywire again. My girl called her garage and said its probably the alternator. I told her to take it to Autozone and put it on the computer and they also said the alternator was bad. I'm not sure if that is the problem or not.
If anybody has gone through this, would you please let me know if it would indeed be the alternator or something else? Thanks a bunch.
30th Oct 2007, 22:57
Having the same issues and after reading all the comments on the 2000 maxima coil, cat, and O2 sensor problems, I'm selling mine asap. thanx for the help.
4th Nov 2007, 17:23
Two posts above. It is the alternator. I went through this. The brake and battery lights had come on and for some reason I ignored them. Car died on the highway a week later. $330 for a new alternator installed.
7th Nov 2007, 18:19
I have a 2000 SE Maxima, and at about 79000 miles I recently started experiencing a problem when I place the car in park. On a few occasions the car would idle low then cut off. Happens rarely, but enough to be concerned!!! Computer scan reads system being to rich; what is the solution, any suggestions? Already replaced 02 + 01 sensors. SES light off again.
16th Nov 2007, 13:43
My 2000 Nissan Maxima SE had the same exact problems in 2005 with 38k miles on it. The engine would stall or idle very rough after sitting overnight in cold temperatures in Northern NJ. It would also stall/idle rough at traffic lights. Once the engine was warm, the problem ceased. It took the dealership several days to find & FIX the problem. The mechanic took his time with the car and finally found the problem. It was cracked manifold gaskets (if this makes sense). I'm looking at the invoice. It states they replaced manifold collector/gaskets. Thankfully my car was still under warranty at the time (took out extended when the car was purchased). The car is now at 60k and I have not had a problem with the exception of a minor idle adjustment and a coil/plug replacement on a cylinder. However I do suspect the alternator is on its way out.
7th Aug 2007, 12:31
Hello fellow 2000 Maxima owners.
Yes, I'm having the same problems many of you have.
It all started at 60K miles with the ignition coils going bad. I took it in to my local Nissan dealership and they wanted $800 for parts and labor. One coil was around $80, so I ended up buying them and replacing them myself for a total of $480.
Within the past couple of weeks, 92K miles, the SES light came on. Autozone told me bank 2 was running lean after they did the diagnostics. That didn't sound like an easy fix. I took it back to the dealer. They told me the air flow meter had gone bad and all 3 oxygen sensors need to be replaced. This was going to cost me $1,300 total. $125 for the air flow meter, $170 for each oxygen sensor, and 6 hours of labor at $111 per hour.
Needless to say, I'll be buying the air flow meter and installing it myself. I'll let you all know how it goes.