18th Feb 2006, 11:46

The fuel pressure regulator will correct the stalling problem and is cheaper than a tune up. Replace plugs with acdelco plug and wires. hard shifting trans? moving the shifter is harder, trans will not go into gear, or when it goes into gear it jerks. The noise you hear after you turn the car of is the load leveling.

30th Jun 2006, 22:30

I have a 95 AURORA I bought it in 2002 I believe. I have had a few problems. radiator first top horse. back break line failed, the right mirror stopped working. it goes up and down, but not side to side. the drivers door lock locks, but doesn't unlock. now today my car wouldn't start at all. doesn't make a sound when I turn the key. I have all power though so it's not the battery. can anyone please tell me what is wrong or had this problem??

I been told it might be the starter and I finally found where that thing is.

All my problems aren't that bad just now my car is in a parking lot and will be towed tomorrow.. I need help please someone help me. this car is all I have please help me!! contact me at spike_244@hotmail.com

Eddy B..

Avon Ohio.

2nd Jul 2006, 13:33

I have a 1995 Aurora and I love it. I think the body style is fantastic. It has 217,000 miles and still runs strong. I've had a few problems with it, but no major complaints considering the miles. Now, when I shut it off, it makes a clicking sound and the gas pedal moves by itself. Has anyone else had this happen? Please let me know if this is serious or if there is an easy fix. Thanks, Andy S.

3rd Jul 2006, 14:57

Your comments:

I have a 1995 olds Aurora.

About 1,000 miles ago, the transmission started giving problems. It would not change gears. When you accelerate and take you foot off of the gas pedal, it would go to idle. The engine rpm would increase, but the car would not keep running. It would coast, like being pushed and then let go.

I was told that this car goes into a limp mode. And that was what it was doing at this time. This usually happens when I’m driving and the engine gets warm. However, it doesn’t do it when I’ve been running the car just in town short distances, it usually happens when I go on the highway and I drive for a few miles. Then it will not change gears again.

Now it seems to be effected by temperature. It does not do this all of the time. And this makes it hard to put your finger on.

While travelling from the airport, I had to get it checked because it was a 4 hour drive and they told me it that I should be fine. The thing is, that after about 2 hours of driving, it started happening. It started giving problems again. I had to stop and waited about 20 minutes, then got in the car and it was fine for about 30 minutes. It just kept happening over and over again, and it just got worse, but it seemed to me that every time I stopped the car and waited for the car to cool off a bit, it would work for a few minutes..

I understand and also know that it is hard to trouble shoot something that might not be acting up at the time. It's being checked, but at this point I cannot trust the car. You never know when this is going to happen. When the transmission does not shift, the average miles per. gallon display shows like this -- -- -- instead of numbers, and flashes. The temperature will not work at this time either.

After it sits for a while, the display starts working normally, the engine temperature starts reading again, and it starts shifting gears again.

One other thing that it does when acting up - the transmission bumps hard when changing gears from park to drive, and from park to reverse.

15th Nov 2006, 15:06

I'm about to buy a 95 Olds Aurora from a friend. It has 100,000 miles on it, but is a very beautiful car (mint condition). He's asking 2,500. He's got receipts about two inches thick in his glove box of repairs he put in to the car, so I figured it won't need much if I bought it. After reading this I could be wrong.

The car is red with dark tinted windows, touch screen dvdplayer/cd player in it. There's not one thing wrong with the car looks wise; I'm just hoping it runs well. If I would buy it. I was just wondering is 100,000 miles a lot of miles for a Northstar? And how many miles does your car have? What do you think, would you buy it?

30th Jan 2007, 15:47

I have a 1995 Olds Aurora. I need to know how to repair the tilt steering wheel. The steering wheel can be pulled back toward the driver with one finger place at about one o'clock position on the wheel. Also the wheel can be pushed away from the driver with one finger placed at seven o'clock position on the wheel.

I have been told by dealer service department that it needs a "Pivot pins kit" plus some bearings.

Does this sound right? If so, what are the parts numbers, and the approx. cost?

Thanks.

Jdrum@charter.net

13th Feb 2007, 15:43

I have a '95 Olds Aurora, 70,000 original miles, making a funny "bang" when cold shifting from Park into Reverse. We heard that the transmission wiring harness sometimes collects trans. fluid and causes this--so we emptied the harness of fluid, cleaned and treated contacts and repositioned the harness so it could not collect fluid again. Still, we get the "clunk/bang" on occasion. Transmission shifts smoothly and functions fine, otherwise. Any other ideas? THANKS. jon3_16@ilovejesus.net.

23rd Jul 2007, 20:06

I have a 95 Aurora and we replaced the alternator twice already...

Problems; where do I begin?

OK so the car wouldn't start after I lost the key, and I got a new one with a key code, so I thought that was the problem, but it wasn't.

Then I thought it was the battery; replaced that, still not the problem.

So the second time we put in the new alternator, and it ran fine for a couple of blocks, then the check charge system light came on and you could see the battery level going down, then the car shut off...

This car has so many problems I can't think of. What could be wrong? Can anybody help me... please... please I need to sell this beast.

26th Jul 2007, 12:01

Regarding the alternator. Mine had a "bad ground" near the battery under the rear seat. It is a black wire connected to the metal. Take it loose and scratch the paint under where the terminal connects, and re-attach. It solved my problem. Also, a sub par battery may be the cause.