10th Oct 2007, 18:05

I recently got new spark plugs and a wire set for my 95 aurora and as usual, my know it all brother just had to fix it. Anybody have any clue on how I can tell which ones go where?

22nd Oct 2007, 20:05

I have a '98 Aurora with 172000 miles. I have had the car since '99 and about 3-4 years ago it started skipping, I got a complete tune up. New spark plugs and wires, coil packs and a throttle position sensor. Well it stopped skipping and started stalling whenever it idled. So for 3 years now I have had to keep my foot on the gas so the rpm's stay up there. And now it is back to skipping again. I live in an area where there are not many of these cars and a lot of mechanics won't touch it. I can't bring myself to part with it yet though. The engine light is not on either! Can anyone help please.

23rd Oct 2007, 21:41

I own a 1995 Aurora the problem that I am having is my license plate light does not light up, nor does my fog lamps. I checked the fuses and they all look o.k. and I changed the bulbs still nothing, I know this probably doesn't sound like much after reading all these other comments, but I would really like to get this problem fixed.

Thank You

Joe Denney.

23rd Oct 2007, 22:18

I just bought a 95 Aurora and I love this car. It had 98,000 miles on it when I bought it and unknown to me the transmission was bad. I paid 2,500 to have the trans rebuilt now it seems to run well, but will need to have the oil pan gasket replaced and appears it will be another grand. It seems that I paid too much for the car initially and keep hoping that it won't cost any more money than it already has. I understand the reluctance of some owners to get rid of this vehicle and wonder how in the world could such a nice car have so many defects. This is a beautiful car and was very well kept, but keep wondering if I should get rid of it now before other problems crop up. VERY HARD DECISION TO MAKE!!

25th Oct 2007, 20:23

Help,

My 1999-125,000 mile- Aurora has been a fantastic and reliable car until lately.

Sometimes, it won't start. Nothing happens when I put the key in the ignition. Then a few minutes later, it'll start right up. I've taken it to the shop and of course, it starts up every time. Then I take it out again, get back in the car, and nothing, no noise, no clicking, it just won't start. A few minutes later, it starts right up. I know it's going to stall on me and my mechanic says he can't do anything until it just won't start. Has anyone else had this problem? It seems like it may be related to the security system, but I'm a girl and that's just a gut feeling.

Thanks.

20th Feb 2008, 09:35

2/20/08- I have had 1999 Olds Aurora for the last 3 years and all I have to say is that its been nothing, but major problems and headaches.

29th Apr 2008, 23:47

I'm the owner of a 1995 Olds Aurora. It's a nightmare(not really!). I was lucky getting for 350 bucks, however, I immediately had to inject 1900 into the thing. I had to replace the transmission, new rotors, and breaks, replace the fuel pump. Serious Oil change. The engine still makes noise. The mechanic I went to says it's the rack, (I don't know what that means, I'll ask him tmw.) Then I want to put some new wheels on it. So the Rack fix=450, and the wheels, probably 250 apiece. But let me tell you. It's beautiful tan in and out, leather. I can't help it, I love the car! If you live cheap, and get one cheap, then get the car... It looks like a spaceship. I'm going to get another car for the winter, a small tiny 4banger. Oh, it has stalled on me once, driving into my driveway, and sometimes just don't want to start, and the passenger window doesn't want to operate sometimes. These are the things I know. I have no idea what else is in store. AC and other things. I have to call GM about the recall, see if I can get in on that. Don't buy it unless you like having a Millennium Falcon, you know that's what it is.

3rd May 2008, 11:20

I own a 99 Aurora... beautiful car with 20 inch rims, limo tinted windows and a loud sound system.

But the car has this problem; when I drive the car in the city temp is at normal rate, but when I drive in the highway temperature starts rising! And when I slow down temp starts to drop... what can that be? please email me... verdin7@hotmail.com... thanks.

23rd May 2008, 20:32

My wife's 1995 Aurora has had many problems. We bought it used at 18,000 miles and bought a GM extended warranty for approximately $600, which was a very good move. I took the car to the dealer multiple times for work including: power seats, power windows, rear window trim, roof trim, radio, windshield washer system rusted out, fuel gauge sensor (twice), recalls for seat belts and fuel rails, steering rack, power antenna and several minor engine problems.

We had the zero deductible warranty, but the cost for GM was several thousand dollars. On our own dime, we've replaced the A/C compressor and the ignition coils and plugs. The car isn't driven much and is at about 49,000 miles after 12 years of owning it. It will be a tough decision when something big goes wrong since the value of the car on the market is just about zero, particularly with gas prices at $3.79. It's a shame to send it to the crusher, but dumping money into it doesn't make sense. The good news is my wife wants a Toyota, Honda or maybe a Nissan next time.

11th Jun 2008, 05:08

I have a 96 Aurora, had for a year.. The car is great, I have never loved a car or cared about a car as much as the Aurora! Or thought that someone could care about a car as much..

It is a luxury car, so things will be more spendy than normal.. That is because nothing is normal on this car; that is what sets it apart.. If things were cheaper & average in price, then the parts would be average.. This car's body today still rivals with new cars of today.. With many cars trying to mimic the look, but with no avail.. I get people asking me what kind of car it is, and they can't believe that it is 12 years old! With that said.. You can still own this car and not get raped by bills.. Shops charge more than the parts themselves, so if you fix it yourself, you will save more than 60% off.. Although I haven't ran into anything to major until recently.. I have saved a bunch of money, now that I see what people are being charged..

I had no problems for at least 8-9 months.. Nothing at all until radiator fluid started leaking out - got a new water pump, thermostat, & belt; $128 parts only.. (I've seen on this site that some people paid close $500 for that).

Everything was fine for about 2/3 months. Then the alternator went out very slowly.. Replaced that for $170 parts only (again, I've seen many people pay $500 for that), so that's $300 parts saved, $700 in labor.)

Everything is OK again for a while, and after a longer than average cruise earlier in the day, I went to eat with my girlfriend, and on the way back I couldn't accelerate past 40mph.. Every time I reached that speed, my car wouldn't accelerate; it would just coast and my rpms would continue to rev. Taeing my foot off the gas would make the rpms drop to idle.. And it would buck when mph reached around 35/40, and would buck when you accelerate again.. So I dropped the transaxle fluid pan, and to my surprise there were bearly any metal shavings.. Could this possibly be the solenoid? My check engine light is on.. But it goes on & off so randomly that it's hard to pin point what it is for...

Also people having starting problems, or key problems.. This might help.. This happened to me soon after getting it.. I thought the car's starter went out.. upon turning the key I wouldn't hear anything.. Not even a click.. But instead of being impatient & trying the key over and over.. You just simply have to hold the key in the start position for a couple extra seconds (usually no more than 5-10 seconds, sometimes it takes longer) and it starts right up! Hasn't failed me yet.. Hope this semi helps.. Also this other trick below should be done before trying that, & will help for sure!

My good friend who knows a lot about cars (he has a 91' Chevy Silverado 454ss) told me what his uncle told him, who has worked on cars for longer than I am old...

Claims that when you put your key in the ignition, that YOU SHOULD NEVER START IT RIGHT AWAY! He said you always should put the key in the on position and wait for those annoying beeps to stop... which is the sign that it is OK to start your car.. I know those beeps are super annoying, but now there has got to be a point for em or they wouldn't have the car beep? Right? And there wouldn't be a point on the ignition in between off and start!?

My point is, that when your car is beeping, really what it's telling you is... Don't start me yet (beep) don't start me yet (beep). While that is happening, all your computers are firing up and telling your fuel pump to pump fuel in the fuel injectors, (you can actually hear your fuel being loaded) and to prepare for ignition.. If you go and try this, I guarantee that your car will start up faster than usual, and with less rolling of the starter. I have done this with many cars.. But it shows the most with my Aurora; it starts up with ease & only a sec or 2 of rolling over..

My friend's 96 Town Car had starting problems for months, before I told him what I do.. He now has to let it sit for 1-2 minutes with the key in the on position, and it starts right up every time.. (yeah, maybe 2 minutes seems long to you, but how much longer would you spend trying to get it to turn over and over.. Plus it is easier on your starter and your computer.) I have even started my Aurora at under 12 volts.. at a 3 movie drive-in, all 3 of the movies I had my subs on too.. I had like 11.8-11.6volts and it started right up..