26th Nov 2010, 18:58
Just purchased a 1996 Cutlass Supreme Sedan. Owners manual says paint code is on spare tire cover. None of those numbers match any numbers found in the paint reference books at auto parts store. Any ideas?? Thanks.
29th Nov 2010, 16:36
I just found this sight on Google today, and have read all of the postings. It's nice to know there are a lot of you enjoying your autos.
I have a '94 Red and Charcoal unit myself. I bought it in Apr of '06. So I've had some go 'rounds with the same problems as you all.
I believe that if we don't want them to leak, then we shouldn't drive them in the rain. Be patient with the DOHC; it does have inherent problems, but they all can be worked out. Its performance will reward you in the end.
I contacted Gates (because I will never use mine as a daily) to find out what the life of the belt in years is, and they said about six to eight years. So, everyone out there with low mileage cars, beware. The belt can and does fail, and the engine is an interference engine. That is, the pistons will hit the open valves. Either breaking or bending them, or breaking the head itself.
Those intake gaskets were just bad. I read that someone was told their driveability was an E-PROM issue. Maybe, mine turned out to be the gaskets after SIX years of cold idle problems. Once it, warmed up it ran fine; didn't even show issues in economy. This past spring though we changed the gaskets, and now it runs like it's supposed to.
Have any of you heard about The Oldsmobile Club of America? www.oldsclub.org. They are all about the heritage and preservation of our beautiful cars. GM isn't making any more of them, so it's up to us to keep 'em going. Oh, and shinin'.
DEW.
1st Dec 2010, 07:29
To the '96 sedan owner, if you haven't deciphered your paint code yet, go to www.automotivetouchup.com and open the "paint codes" line on the left side of the page. It should help you find your code. Then at your auto parts store, you will have to translate your code into the paint manufacturer's code. It's not the simplest, but it's the only way.
DEW.
13th Dec 2010, 20:22
Hi. Nice site and I hope it becomes more active because I will probably need help!
Just looking at cars on Craigslist, a pastime here, and found a 94 Cutlass Convert. The seller said the engine had been changed out last year with a 55K on the newer engine and the transmission about a year and a half ago. He said the top and interior was good and the pics show a nice body and white paint job with wide red racing stripes, looks cool. Wheels look stock, maybe hubcaps.
It was his daughter's car and she is off to school and won't need the car so he wanted around a grand. I took the leap on the phone and will get it tomorrow.
He said there were no oil issues and the door handle is broken and he thought one power motor for the top was slower than the other... Hmmm, after reading here, it's probably a pump or fluid problem...
Thanks for all the insight to this car. We will see about noon with money in hand, hope he got a 3.1 engine, but what ever, do ya think a grand is too much? Hope it all works out as this will be a daily driver and a 19 year old boy will probably want to drive it too! It does look nice in the pics. If I get it, I'll be back and join the OCSCC (Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible Club) if I can.
Thanks again.
Bill.
30th Dec 2010, 07:36
I have a 1994 red Cutlass Convertible (3.4 DOHC). My question is has anyone recently tried to put a new battery in this car? It doesn't look too bad, but just trying to get some helpful hints as I am nowhere near a mechanic. Thanks for any help.
Steve from MD.
11th Jan 2011, 09:12
Steve From MD.
Removing the battery from a W-body auto goes like this:
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
2. Remove the negative cable.
3. Remove the positive cable.
4. Remove the bolts from the cross brace (that's the brace that runs diagonally from the fender to the front of the car).
5. Take the brace off.
6. If the car has ABS, set the relay center aside after unbolting it.
7. Pull the electrical connector from the windshield washer pump.
8. Pull the windshield washer line from the pump.
9. Remove the washer reservoir from the car.
10. Remove the air cleaner upper attachment bolt.
11. Remove hold down bolt for the battery, air cleaner bracket and retainer.
12. The battery should now be loose.
If this sounds kind of complicated, wait until you try it.
Otherwise get your car to your favorite mechanic and let them do it, probably all for the price of a new battery.
DEW.
11th Jan 2011, 13:27
Or just trade it in for a far better designed car that you can actually swap the battery out in under 10 minutes! One more reason not to like GM. Simple little do it yourself fixes become a waste of an entire Saturday afternoon!
11th Jan 2011, 16:30
That's a lot of work to have to do to replace a battery. The Olds engineers really fell down on the job there.
12th Jan 2011, 08:33
First step of removing battery from vehicle...
Remove engine...
Second step...
Ask why did you ever buy such an overly complicated piece of... machinery in the first place! ;-D.
29th Jan 2011, 09:08
So, there are some naysayers about our Oldsmobiles. Well I must respond with:
1. If you don't like them, don't buy them. If you do own one and don't like it, sell it!
2. Name one automobile manufacturer that has an engineering department that actually works on what they design. These cars have a potential value that cannot be measured, they don't make them anymore. Try and find an inexpensive Edsel now.
DEW.
29th Jan 2011, 09:12
Steve from MD,
Did you mean you are not a mechanic, or that a mechanic is a long distance from you?
DEW.
16th Feb 2011, 10:39
Can someone tell me what gaskets need to be replaced to solve the cold idle issues?
Thanks.
jimmyjimwas@aol.com.
17th Feb 2011, 11:56
OK someone tell me what is it upper intake manifold gasket, I can't remember.
Please email me jimmyjimwas@aol.com
The problem is that when I start the car cold it sputters and stops but it's OK when it warms up.
20th Mar 2011, 21:11
I think I just made a lady mad. She listed her 94 on Craigs list. She had owned it since 95 with only 104k, red/white/white. My 94 has just turned 100k. I think after I left with the vert, she realized she sold it too cheap, because I told her about this site & that a lot of people love the Cutlass Convertible, & we're buying them up. Before I left with her car, she said don't tell me they are collectible. She didn't even speak to me when I returned with my wife to pick mine up.
Anyway, love the Cutlass, & just sold my Grand Prix; looking for a nice coupe to replace it, just missed the one on ebay.
P.S. anyone know where I can find white buckets for the rear, or I may go black & have them redone.
Thanks, have a great cruise.
25th Nov 2010, 01:27
I just today bought a 94 triple white convertible. I think the body style is awesome.
The outside door handle won't open door, and rear window moldings about gone. You are all scaring me with all the talk of the 3.4 engine! I guess I'll find out!
Mine has 140k, but it's all original with no rust. Do any of you know where to get new carpet? I appreciate any references. I thought I'd check with JC Witney, but I don't know if they do convertibles or not.
These cars really turn some heads going down the road. Take care.
John @ jkkinfl@aol.com.