21st Sep 2008, 08:51

Can't believe there's an advertisement for new and used Clios!

Same as a lot of people. Wasn't starting. It was sorted as a sensor problem. Now while driving, when it's cold, the auto light comes on and it goes into limp gear. It's going in tomorrow for a shave and haircut. I've only owned it 3 weeks!

23rd Sep 2008, 04:15

I have decided to compile a list of the suggested fixes in order to assist those (like myself) who had to wade through 330 odd posts to get some practical information. I wish to thank all those who offered constructive comments and advice, and not a re-hashed rundown of a problem outlined 100 times previously.

Firstly I will list the specific problems I encounter. I'm assuming that these problems are common throughout the whole Clio model range, but my model specifically is:

2003 Renault Clio SPORT.

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MY PROBLEMS

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1) At idle, engine would rev erratically. Anywhere from 1000rpm to 3000rpm is common. This problem seemed to sort itself out at any given time, unfortunately this problem is IMMEDIATELY followed by the problem listed below.

2) Electrical Fault warning light on the dash (Little box with 'squiggly' lines).

When this light is activated I cannot rev the engine past 3000rpm. Stopping the engine and re-starting would randomly solve the problem for hours/days/weeks but the problem would always return.

3) Same as problem 2 listed above EXCEPT there is no throttle response from the accelerator pedal. Engine is still running but cannot rev the engine at all. Re-starting the engine would usually sort this problem out temporarily.

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POSSIBLE FAULTY COMPONENTS:

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Lambda sensor

Idle Control Valve (ICV)

Coils

TDC sensor

Chaffed wiring

Bad earth

Relay corrosion

Wiring “resistances”

Faulty ECU

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SUBMITTED SOLUTIONS (thanks to all again)

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The culprit will probably be the Idle Control Valve (ICV) which is located on the top of the inlet manifold. The ICV acts as a gate allowing varying amounts of air into the engine. However they are known to stick. Then they either let too much air into the engine, possibly causing high revs, or not enough starving it of air and causing the engine to almost or actually cut out.

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I just want too add that I have a Clio Y Reg 1.2 16V Sport, which DID HAVE the all so common electrical fault, which resulted in loss of power and caused the engine to cut out etc. It is all down to the little Tamper Proof Box, which you can see at the back of the engine when you look under the bonnet. The box rattles and wears away at the all important ECU wires it is supposed to protect, which causes the "orange coil light to appear on the dashboard" and the engine to start cutting out and loosing power. All I did with my Clio was place a piece of plastic between the wires and secured the box with zip ties to stop the rattling, I did this in Jan 08 and I have not had a problem with it cutting out etc since! Hope this helps everyone and ends the frustration I went through with my Clio.

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Read on for how I fixed the dreaded orange light curse!!!

I have Clio y reg 2001. I have had all these problems as well the orange light then cutting out at lights, roundabouts etc. I also had problems starting hot or cold anytime of the day. I can now say completely FIXED. My hubby is a top mechanic; he has replaced the engine earth. New earth lead bolted through the starter motor directly to the battery. Topped up level in battery, and fitted new lambda sensor underneath (15 pound local scrap yard!!!)

The lambda sensor on my car has been dodgy all along, so not too sure if this actually made a difference, but I have no problem at all with my car. It has been over a fortnight and no light. Started every time everyday. Before you spend any more money replacing expensive things please try this. Good luck.

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I have fixed three 1, 2 Clios, by working systematically through the harness with a high accuracy resistance meter, this is a painstaking process, but as I have learned, just because you find "a fault" that does not mean you stop there.

It seems that each car is slightly different,　but there will be a number of high resistances, giving rise to failed signals to the ECU.

I'm hoping to build up a databases of resistances to speed up the process．At present it takes between 4 and 8 hours to complete.

The diagnostic machines rely on the wiring being good, hence all the false failed component codes from dealers.

Similarly disturbing the harness when fitting a component or undertaking work can give a temporary reprieve, seeming like the replacement part/work was the fix.

I do not doubt that the mechanical fixes are needed as well, however the underlying problem of high resistance has made this circuit drop close to its lower thresholds in the first place, so making that element less fault tolerant.

I can guarantee to date this approach works. If you are interested in contacting me to discuss further, please mail me on dgsutton2000@yahoo.co.uk

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I have a 52 plate Renault Clio Dynamique (54,000 miles) 16v (bought 4 weeks ago), and pretty much as soon as I'd purchased it, the fumes light was on, which if I over revved the car (3000 RPM+) would cause the engine management light to come on, and the car to go into 'limp... get me home... mode'.

For the first 2 weeks, I had no idea what the hell was causing this, but I took it up to my friend's house, he opened the air intake valve and we gave it a quick spray. Lo and behold, the fumes light went off and it was okay for a couple of days. It did come back, which really pee'd me off, but again, I took it to my friends and gave it a more aggressive spray (actually managing to choke the engine into stalling), and it was fine for 2 weeks.

It's since done it again, and I've been to Halfords and bought my own spray, and I've gotten into the habit of giving it a spray every weekend... so far all seems fine.

I know nothing about cars, so don't treat this as gospel, but this solution might not help you guys; rather than shelling out loads of cash, it's worth a try to check this first. Basically, you have to unscrew the two nuts on your air intake valve, crack it open (with the engine on) and spray the air intake (while revving seems to do it better).

My friend said the problem probably lies with the 'lambda??' sensor inside the air intake, which is giving the engine false readings because it's clogged up, so it could probably do with replacing, but I'm gonna keep this up for a few weeks and see where I am then.

Like I say, give it a try, it may work...

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Hope this may be of some help to those of you at your wits end! Open your bonnet and on the right hand side next to the battery is a plastic fuse box cover. Remove this and just behind the headlight you should find three little black relays in a line. Remove one at a time and look for any white/green corrosion, if found change all three (£14.75 each!). This completely cured a 1.2 16v Clio Dynamic, which has the same faults as described on here, cutting out, non start, and rough running. Simple to check and may save you hundreds of pounds, as this will not show up on a diagnostics check. Hope this helps some of you out. Good luck

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I have had most of the problems stated on this site (engine management light/ coil light / airbag light etc..). The main one was my Clio losing power and stuttering in limp mode while driving, along with a strong smell of fuel during this. After changing the coil pack and having my manifold cleaned, it was still doing it, so I took it back to the friendly diagnostics man who checked it again for free and finally found out that the lambda sensor (a spark plug looking thing with a thick wire which inserts into your exhaust) was totally done for, so after changing that my car has never run better!! If this sensor is broke it will tell the engine that there is not enough fuel going into the engine, therefore flooding it and causing it to lose power, also damaging the catalytic converter (expensive) hope this helps.

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Since finding this 'cure' I have now fixed (for now!) 16 Clio's all with relay corrosion, check yours as it is the cheapest option other than a litre of petrol and a box of matches!

If it cures yours, please post so others can at least check theirs.

"Possible cure for your Renault.

Hope this may be of some help to those of you at your wits end! Open your bonnet and on the right hand side next to the battery is a plastic fuse box cover, remove this and just behind the headlight you should find three little black relays in a line, remove one at a time and look for any white/green corrosion, if found change all three (£14.75 each!) this completely cured a 1.2 16v Clio Dynamic which has the same faults as described on here, cutting out, non start, and rough running, simple to check and may save you hundreds of pounds as this will not show up on a diagnostics check. hope this helps some of you out. good luck"

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FINALLY

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Hoping for a simple easily-fixed solution, I checked the three black relays in the engine fuse box as suggested. Sadly all relays are in perfect order, my problem appears to lie elsewhere.

I am having my car looked at tomorrow and will hopefully have my issue sorted.

I will ensure to return here and let you all know how I go.