24th Apr 2011, 11:43
Regarding Clio sunroof leaks! I have had similar experience over the last 5 years with the sunroof leaking into the passenger sun visor. It also started to leak this winter into the driver's sun visor area. After buying and fitting a new seal for the sunroof myself, I found it still leaked! This year I decided I'd had enough, and as the car was now 10 years old, I was determined to fix it myself however I could. I literally put a load of black sealer around the plastic trim of the sunroof (part that joins to the roof metal), and so far, after a lot of rain this month - no leak!
I have so many problems with this car that I am not even going to bother selling it, as I have spent thousands on various parts over the years! Most of the problems on this forum I have had with my 2002 Clio, and so far I have ended up solving the problems myself, as garages don't have a clue or rip you off, especially if you are a woman. Well this girl is doing it herself, and telling the mechanics what to fix, because basically they will charge you tons of cash when you get diagnostic readings for parts you don't even need...
If anybody has a problem with their Clio, please let me know if I can help, I've got quite a lot of answers for many Clio problems :)
Zoe.
1st May 2011, 23:43
I think I'm the only person on this site that hasn't been plagued with problems with their Clio. I have a 2002 Clio Dynamique 1.2 16V, which I've owned since January 2007. I bought the car with 44k miles and it's now done 75k miles. Yes... I've had a rattly sunroof... but Gateshead Renault did make adjustments free of charge when it became unbearable. Whether that is common practice, or out of courtesy with it being serviced every year by them, I don't know.
I have had no problems with erratic engine revs or starting. The car has been thoroughly reliable. It has had what I consider wear and tear relative to age and mileage. It has needed a battery, tyres, rear suspension, brakes. The starter motor did go at one time, and it is positioned at the front of the engine, so I guess it leaves it vulnerable to the elements, but the car was 6 years old at the time, and I did not begrudge replacing it.
The orange coil light has stopped on 3 times in five years. Although on next using the car it has subsequently gone back off, and I haven't pursued the matter. The car gets diagnostic tested at the service, and this hasn't brought anything up.
Just wanted to post, because I think when people have problems, they want to share, and sometimes we forget about the good. I'm glad I chose the Clio (especially over the planned Peugeot 206), and would recommend one to anyone.
3rd May 2011, 09:57
I have a 2002 Clio, the toxic fume warning light came on intermittently and then stayed on. The car was running roughly and sounded like it was missing on one of the cylinders. I removed the long plug caps and to my surprise found that on no.2 pot the plug cap had a burn hole right through it which was causing the spark to arc out. I put insulating tape around the burnt part of the cap and the car runs perfectly. After 10 miles or so the toxic fume warning light on the dash went out.
So all I need to do is to replace the long plug cap that is if it is separate to the HT lead, otherwise the whole lead and cap will have to be replaced, can I do this myself?
9th May 2011, 03:48
If I have got this right, in 2006 she paid 5000 for a Y reg Clio.
That is a poor price to start with. I think they may have seen you coming sir!
I have had an identical problem with the ECU, as my airbag and service light are on after I spun the car a few times and dinged it. Renault gave me the 700 quid bill as well.
From my experience, I am leaving it as the airbags didn't even deploy when I did have an accident!!
I have an 04 Clio Extreme 3 - It hasn't missed a beat, despite having heavy use!
16th May 2011, 07:27
Hi, I have the exact same problem. My dad is a very good mechanic and thinks that the wiring loom to the electronic sender is the problem as the sender itself doesn't come out. I'm yet to try and fix mine as I've been too busy, but this is definitely worth looking into mate.
Please let me know if this helps.
Ashley.
18th Aug 2011, 23:29
I bought a 2003 1.4 Clio with about 50,000 km back in 2007, and I had to replace the lower arms and tie rod ends; I thought that the original owner had been clumsy with her driving, so I paid no real attention to it (it was not a new car, anyway).
Then I had to replace the manual transmission rear oil seal due to a leak, and recently I replaced the front brake discs (rotors) at about 75,000 km. I have seen many Japanese cars with more mileage that don't have these problems, but, well, I fixed them.
However, since a while ago I am having all kinds of electric problems:
1. I had to replace the back door lock because it was failing to close.
2. The "check oil" light was turning on because of a false contact, and the shop had to repair the cable harness.
3. The engine began to lose power and stall after 2,000 rpm; again because of a false contact. Cable harness repair again.
4. The auto up or down operates at its own will.
5. The A/C is not working because it lost refrigerant.
6. The worst thing is that, recently, ALL the warning lights began to turn on, the electric steering began to provide strong feedback with minimum inputs, and the engine lost power and stalled.
The shop indicated that I had to replace the alternator, but in my country the original part costs about USD 1,400.00, and they did not have it. I repaired the alternator, replacing the voltage regulator and rewiring the stator.
Really, I am selling this thing as soon as I can, and I will never buy a Renault again. The Clio is fun to drive, well equipped and comfortable, but it is not reliable, it is not really fuel efficient (I never got more than 11 km/liter in city driving), and parts are very expensive.
I hope you all have better luck with your vehicles.
23rd Apr 2011, 09:05
After reading through this forum, I have myself experienced similar problems with my 1.2 16v Clio 2002, but although I had changed map sensors, the problem still occurred. I searched through various forums, and was advised to get a mechanic to clean the throttle body. This has solved the problem for me. No more coil light, no more revving the engine to get rid of it, and so far after 6 months, no problems. I had everything looked at - wiring loom, sensors etc, but nobody could fix it until the throttle body was cleaned. I would suggest to try this first before spending out unnecessary money, as I personally feel that lots of mechanics ignore this easy fix so they can get lots of our cash on labour for nothing!