3rd Aug 2007, 05:25

I have posted before with my problem.. but I seem to have stomped on it, and thought I'd share.

Basically, when in traffic, or often when slowing down, coming up to a stop, my engine management light would come on. At this point, if I was letting the car idle, the revs would jump up and down as though the car were about to stall and it was revving to prevent this. If I left my foot off the accelerator, it would stall. If I revved for a a few seconds, the light would switch off and the car would return to normal.

Also, twice, I managed to run the battery down to a point where the car would not start (usually by leaving the radio on or some such)

Last week, I managed this again. I called out the RAC and could not get my car started using jumper leads. When they dropped me at home though, I made them put my car at the top of the hill so I could try roll start it. It worked. The next morning, I thought about it.. and the fact that revving the motor seems to clear the light suggested that perhaps revving was charging the battery or something and getting rid of the light? So I did the following.

I drove the car to KwikFit who will do free battery tests. They tested the battery and verified that my current one was die for replacement. I then replaced the battery and have not had the problem since. (I used to get it every day.. it has now been 8 days since I last had the problem)

It is a bit if a long shot, but a battery test can be done free. If the battery is due, you may as well have it swapped anyway?

It could be possible that it worked simply because the battery had been disconnected, so the on board computer reset the idling when I eventually started the car again? If your battery is OK.. perhaps try this? Both options are low cost and low risk (If you are going to disconnect your battery, just make sure you know the code for your radio though.. It will be on you service manual and the invoice from when you got the car if you bought it new)

If this helps - please post here for others.

3rd Aug 2007, 06:30

I am having the same problems with my 98 R Clio Grande - engine cuts out whilst driving/idling at a junction or traffic lights. Very dangerous, especially as the hazard lights won't work when this happens! It will normally start again if jump started, but once engine is switched off it won't re-start. Have taken it to the garage on numerous occasions and they can't find a definitive problem - suggestions have been faulty earthing, negative connection... Very annoying.

15th Aug 2007, 08:08

This is the first time I've bought a second-hand car from a private buyer with no warranty, and the first time I've bought a Renault, and NEVER again. The car is a 03 Dynamique and has only 18,000 miles. In February, it started losing power when cold so I took it to the garage who charged me £140 for diagnostics, and for changing the spark plugs. It has worked fine till this week when it's (losing power) all started again. Have been back to Renault who want £100 for tests, but I have no confidence in their finding the problem. I've not worked on a car before, but with the help of my Dad I'm going to do the spark plugs, check the wiring and clean the manifold (not sure what that is yet, but am about to find out!)

My real comment: has Renault admitted any fault with these cars? Seems like (there is) a common fault. I certainly would not buy a Renault again, and have found the attitude at the dealership very unhelpful, assuming this cannot be the first time they've had this problem.

Will let you know how I get on with the mechanics, and if I solve the problem.

Jan.

21st Aug 2007, 11:26

I have a 55 reg Clio Extreme 1.2 16v, and I too have been having problems with starting the car, and with the revs dying out when I'm accelerating, but then at other times it flies away.

Also, I've had a fault in the doors which did not lock, so was leaving my car parked, thinking it was locked when it wasn't.

Have had the AA out to look at it as I could not get it started at all; he could not find fault, and then it randomly started up again.

It's been fine for a few months, but in past 3 weeks it has started not starting again. Taking it back to the garage on Friday for a look.

29th Aug 2007, 11:02

Renault Clios,

Don't buy one! Bought mine as my first car just after passing my driving test in 2005. Worked fine for about 5-6 months then the cutting out started!

- Would approach a junction and dip the clutch to come to a stop; coil light would come on and revs would fluctuate for no reason, then after about 3-5 fluctuations the car would cut out.

Took car to my local Renault dealer when my parents were on holiday, and received very poor service. They replaced an upper wiring loom, which I think cost in the region of £350.

The car worked fine for about another 7 months, and then it started cutting out again. Also by this time the passenger airbag warning light came on, I was told this was just an electric fault and Renault removed the fault code. However to this day they still say they don't know what the problem is.

Want to get rid of this car ASAP.

Anyone who knows the solutions to these problems, or information on part exchanging these cars (eg how much a dealer will give you) please contact me on:

mattyev2002@hotmail.com

Cheers.

6th Sep 2007, 12:03

My Car was brand new from 2003, a dynamique billabong 1.2 16v. It was picked up with a faulty thermometer which the garage replaced under warranty. About a year later, the leads and spark plugs went and my car lost power. Fortunately, the warranty covered the repairs.

Then it had the service and airbag light coming on which I found out through a friend is faulty connections and have dealt with - I am no mechanic or electrician, but having a Dad who is an engineer helps a lot!

Now my indicators are screwed up - Renault charged me £44 for the pleasure of telling me that the main fuse control board, known as the UCH, requires replacement and this can only be done using a new part, which to configure (as only official Renault dealers have the software to do this) and install would cost a staggering £350!!! I am going to order the part from them and get them to configure it for me, I think I am competent enough to fit it.

I have been fortunate enough to not have any other major problems, but I suggest where possible - AVOID THE DEALERS!! For most servicing issues, if you are competent at doing basic maintenance a Haynes manual costs less than £20 in Halfords and will tell you how to change the parts and basic parts (brake pads, spark leads, coils etc) are considerably cheaper.