21st Sep 2010, 14:33
I have a 1977 Silver Shadow 2, and I think that it is absolutely delicious. My previous car was a 1979 Shadow. If I ever manage to wear this one out, which I think is highly unlikely, then my next car will be another one!
Nick, Malaga, Spain.
23rd Sep 2010, 06:06
These seem like lovely cars compared to the garbage sold today, but I was wondering - wouldn't you get about 98% of the luxury and comfort with ten times the reliability, with, say, an '84 Oldsmobile 98 in perfect condition. I think you could still pick up a low-mileage Olds like that for say $5,000-6,000.
23rd Sep 2010, 07:16
I see used Rolls all the time under 10K, and can only imagine it's a car bought hoping to catch a Rolls, and not have issues. When they get home, the realization sinks in on obtaining parts and specialized labor. I looked at many used luxury imports, and bought older Mercedes instead at the time. I learned a lot. Don't buy just cheap, buy the best you can afford, new or used, and it's less costly in the long run. If cars sit, the low mileage claims are not a real asset, it's a detriment if not started or maintained. I saw one of these sitting outside for 4 years recently, just parked. I cannot imagine it's an inexpensive proposition to get it tagged and running well instantly without the dollars attached into it.
5th Jan 2011, 00:35
I literally just purchased an '81 Silver Shadow II right hand drive, and I am really looking forward to driving it after winter. The map light over the drivers side, and the radio light do not shut off, so I have to disconnect the battery when I park it. Anyone ever encountered this? Any advice? The map light switch on the dash only operates the passenger map light. Does anyone know how many of these cars were registered as a 1981, cuz I can't seem to find any info on that overflow from 1980 before it was discontinued. Thanks!!
4th Sep 2011, 11:58
I own some domestic classics that see under 1000 miles a year, but they are ready to drive at a moments notice. I show my cars. I take them out every month for 20 minutes. Any shorter and it's not good, as there's sludging concerns. If I ran synthetic that would not be an issue. Keeps the seals from drying out with the 20 minute drive. I don't use synthetic on older cars because of leak concerns.
I move them to prevent flat spotting the tires. I also park with poly under the tires to prevent dry rot through the concrete floors. I have hidden quick disconnect on my battery maintainer. I do not use chargers; a big difference.
I change oil and filters twice a year. I use stabil and an ethanol treatment like Startron. I use Techtrol in the spring. I do my other fluids every 3 years.
I even went with a frame garage vs masonry as it is less prone to damp conditions. I keep my doors cracked to not compress the seals. I keep pans of charcoal briquets in my cars in the winter. No mildew issues. If it's a dry day, I even wind the doors open up for a while.
I have seen low mileage cars with zero appeal, brake pedals to the floor, gunked up, and bad fuel, lines and tank too. Cars with bad paint or primered I avoid, as it's very expensive today. That's a big mistake unless you buy very cheap. I don't have a Rolls, but the above worked for me. Everyone can do or pick what they like. Anyway, good luck.
7th Mar 2013, 20:47
It's true what they say about the mileage on these cars. I own a 1979 Silver Wraith II that has 220,000 miles on it (yes, that's right, 220,000 miles!). The previous owner documented every repair ever made to the car, and it is in literally perfect condition.
The reason I bought it over other low mileage examples was the history and documentation. The car rides like a dream and runs great. It gives me an issue every now and then, but most antique cars do any way.
If you want one of these, do your homework and don't buy one that's been sitting for too long. These cars need to be driven, as mine obviously has! Happy motoring.
2nd May 2013, 17:11
Hi there, I have a small car collection. I am in the car industry, in 'auto design/engineering'. As they are mostly English cars, (Rolls Royce, Bentley, Jaguar, Daimler, and so on), I have always had a problem with repairers, (i.e. mechanics). There are few who profess to be 'experts' and clearly are not, so I have had to get my hands dirty, as they say.
I am hoping someone can help with the current problem, and that is, the car is a '79 Shadow II, and taking it out for an airing recently, I encountered some rain. Turning on the wipers went well, but when I went to turn them off, they kept wiping. In the intermediate position (all the way to the left), it works fine. It is only in the 'off' position that it is as if it is still in the 'on' position. I am not sure whether it is the dash switch or one of the relays?
Help please, Al.
P.S. I live in Perth, Western Australia.
3rd May 2013, 16:18
I don't know that many cars have relays for wipers (lights, sure), but if there is one, the best way may be to substitute a relay and see if it continues. It's likely the switch.
10th May 2013, 05:58
Hi, it's Al, (the '79 Shadow II with the wiper not going off problem).
I am reminded of a comment I have heard over the years about driving your Roller rather than leaving it parked up, which for me is a little difficult, having a few and all. Anyway, I decided to just 'hover' over the wiper motor, and take a cover or two off and have look. Because the car is ex. Hong Kong, it is low miles, approx 50K.
Not seeing anything untoward and looking good, I could only see that the grease was a little dry, so I thought the easiest and least I could do was add some lubricant. I reached for the oil can, because it was handy instead of looking for the grease gun. Once finished and covers back on, I powered the wipers up again, and much to my surprise, a few wipes later with the switch in the off position, the wipers stopped and parked. So it's true if you have a small problem with your Roller, just drive it. I have a similar story about the brakes. Another time.
Thank you, Al.
17th Jun 2015, 14:21
One basic thing to check is that the transmission oil is at the correct level. If too low, it will not engage.
19th Jun 2015, 04:47
I didn't think Shadows were made in 81. I thought they were made from 1965 till 1980.
21st Aug 2015, 02:54
Most people are terrified to buy a Rolls because of nonsense you hear like "Is it true if it breaks down, Rolls fly a mechanic in from London to fix it?" or "Is it true the motor's sealed and only Rolls has the key?". LOL, nonsense.
I've owned 2 Shadows and a Spur. Had good luck with all of them. OK, the repair costs are high and most mechanics won't touch one, but everything good in life has a price. What I do notice is that most parts are interchangeable with other cars: starters, alternators, plugs, filters etc.
The problems areas are the brake systems and the suspension, but if you change the fluids every two years on these systems, they're usually trouble free.
I change the oil every 2500 miles (Castrol GTX 10-40) and the plugs every 20k miles. I use Lexol conditioner on the leather, wax the car, treat it like a beautiful woman; then the cars are great.
31st May 2010, 09:28
I have a 1977 Silver Shadow, it has been left to ruin, very sad! I am trying to get it sorted out and get an MOT on it and get it back on the road. I am having a problem with the transmission not engaging; when I put it in to drive, it does nothing.. Any ideas?
Cheers, Kieron. London.