31st May 2010, 09:13
I have a Subaru Outback, 2004, with 180,000 km on it. My back passenger tire clunks when I accelerate and then squeaks loudly until about 40km is reached, and then it is fine. I've had my car looked at and nothing has been found. Anyone experienced this problem before??? I feel as if my tire is going to fall off!!!
1st Jul 2010, 11:58
Having had many new Mercedes and BMWs, this 2000 3 litre Outback is the best car I have ever owned.
There is now 147K miles on the clock, and zero problems. Yes there is a smell of gas - but it comes from a leaking drive train boot throwing oil on to the hot exhaust, but $50 fixes that.
The engine warning light has come on telling me the catalytic converter needs changing (ugh), but otherwise no problems at all, just a fantastic car, quiet and trouble free.
18th Jul 2010, 21:16
I own a 2000 Outback Limited. It has 120,000 miles on it and has had many of the same problems as listed.
It blew the head gasket, but fortunately I still had 3,000 miles left on the warranty so it was covered. I wasn't aware though until now that it's been a common problem. I've been told the clutch was starting to go, which is the first time in 40 years I've had a car which has had that. So far though it seems to be doing OK.
Rust has been a huge problem, especially in one area where it's eaten through the body. Brakes have also been a problem and I've had to have them redone every two years. I've also had the problems with the oxygen sensors going off. Finally, the catalytic converter just blew.
I'm beginning to wonder if the costs are beginning to be more than the payments on a new car, although I'll probably fix the catalytic converter and keep going.
If and when I do get a new car, it'll be a Subaru. I live in New Hampshire and it is totally fabulous in the snow, and that alone makes it worth it to me. I love the car, my kayaks easily fit on the roof racks, my bike fits on the back, I get around 27 MPG, I can keep all my equipment in the back and still fit the family in the car. It's solidly built so I feel safe in it were there to be an accident.
I was hoping to get 200,000 miles but I doubt that will happen. Right now I'll settle for 150,000.
30th Jul 2010, 11:38
Bought my 2000 Legacy Outback with 4 speed auto, new in May of 2000. Has 223,467 on it now, and still runs great.
I use my car for office equipment field service. 95% is in town driving, and I punch it at every light. On weekends I take long drives into the mountains.
Had the first oil change by the dealer. They stripped the oil lug nut on the first change. Denied it.
At 6000 miles had an oil changing place strip it some more. Changed my own oil (every 3k) for the next 65k by babying pan, and had pan replaced at 75k ($210).
Belts and hoses per manufacturer recommendation.
Always change my own oil, and do 30k flush of radiator and trans.
I had an oil changing place flush the radiator and trans, and afterwards I drain just enough antifreeze to put in head sealer.
Only use Michelin Hydroedge tires. Original Firestones only lasted 36k.
Front boots split around 90k & 135k. I think environment (live in desert climate) and the terrain I drive in (lots of dirt & rock roads, which I drive at 45-60mph) contributed to failure.
Timing belt at 120k.
At 156k, had overheating with the A/C on. OK if the A/C was off. Service center said portions of the radiator were clogged. Had radiator replaced.
At 160k (check engine light), had catalytic converter, oxygen sensors, pipe and muffler replaced ($1600).
At 168k, while crossing a stream, which appeared to be very low water running, but turned out to be much deeper; as water was starting to come over top of left quarter panel, punched it, heard a bang and escaped the raging water. Next morning, after backing out of driveway, heard a knock in the rear, and the rear end shimmied around corners. Took to 4wheel drive spec. (not dealer) Had broken rear end axle bracket, dry rotted bushings, worn bearing on drive shaft. All replaced including drive shaft (can't buy bearing without shaft) for $2600.
Had 3rd party super duper plugs ($12.00 ea.) short after 18k of driving and toasted plug wiring. ($600.) Subaru plugs are $4.00 ea. and always last more than 30k.
I get new brake pads every 6 months, & am on my 3rd set of rotors.
At 185k the A/C died. Local non dealer shop recharged and leak tested using wrong procedure for Subaru. Worked for 2 months, then receiver driver valve started sticking due to leak testing chemical used. Complete new A/C installed ($1200).
Also had car repainted at 200k.
Replaced rubber fuel lines at 218k due to smell. (<$100)
Will be getting timing belt, water pump & cam seal replaced (small oil leak) at 225k for $1300 by dealer.
My recommendation is to use only OEM parts, follow the book, and double check your mechanics, no matter who they are.
Still getting 25mpg with the A/C off, 23.5 with the A/C on. 28-29mpg if I use 91 octane gas.
One note: car has never seen more than 30 days total below freezing weather in 10 years. Driven on the beach 5 times a year in Mexico. Always wash afterwards... no rust.
Cost of maintaining car after it was paid for averages $200.00 per month. I'll be getting a new Outback as soon as business returns to normal.
28th Mar 2010, 22:00
I like an AWD, I live in a snowy area of Michigan, but I won't buy another Subaru, as I've had so much trouble with this unit.
I bought a 2000 Outback of a friend with 125k on the odometer, it had been damaged with hail.. so I got it for a fairly good price.
The car and I have had abuse love/hate relationship ever since. I have 145k on the odometer, but in and around that time... I've.
1. Replaced head gaskets;
2. The catalytic converter;
3. Replaced the radiator, because it leaked;
4. Replaced emergency brake parts, as all of the inner workings rusted to powder;
5. Replaced the wheel bearings;
6. The whistling noise from somewhere on the driver's side door/mirror is annoying;
7. Installed a clutch kit with a new flywheel, pressure plate, disk etc to stop some chattering.. It's better but not perfect;
8. On the highway, it kept on slipping out of 5th gear. I started messing around with the transmission, unbolted the transfer case and a part of 5th gear fell on the floor. The nut on the main shaft wasn't torqued right at the factory and it backed off, which is why the transmission was having all the problems.
To make matters worse, 2000 is the only year with this particular transmission and I broke the aluminum casting putting it all back together..
I've bought another transmission (used for around 1k), and am taking a gamble on whether or not this unit will have the same trouble, given that the 2000s are noted to have these transmission problems... still waiting to install it..
9. Replaced the rear lift-hatch opening mechanism, as it seized with rust.