26th Nov 2003, 11:47

I own a 99 Camry with 76000 miles on it. It has been nothing but trouble since day one. Tires, brakes, lights, timing belt changed at 30000, suspension is gone, one thing after another. Just had it in for blue smoke out of the tailpipe at startup. The dealer says the valve seals are leaking and it would cost over $1000 to repair! He then says he would just live with it if it were him and not fix it. He insists it has nothing to do with the gel/sludge problem, but I just don't believe them. They should have recalled this model. I hate driving around in a time bomb, but can't afford a new car right now.

3rd Mar 2004, 15:32

I own a 1999 Toyota Camry. I bought it used in 2001. I have a about 75000 on it. Three weeks ago the car emitted a horrible rattling sound and just died. I AAA'd it to my dealer and got a ride to work. Later that morning they called. I said, "How are you doing?" My heart sank when the voice on the other end of the phone said, "A lot better than you." Apparently the water pump went and wrecked the timing belt as well. 700.00 later I found myself a little stunned because I thought Toyota Camry's were supposed to be the most reliable car. Everybody I know who has owned one has never had to more than "change the oil, tires and brakes, regularly." My wife's sister has a circa 80's Camry with over 250,000 miles that she is only just now selling, and only because the exterior is rotting through from corrosion. She has never had to do anything major to the engine.

I was very interested to see the suspension comments on this site, because I have always felt that my Camry's suspension was a little shot and getting worse. But I had always chalked it up to driving on New England's pothole filled roads.

I really hope this water pump thing is not a sign of things to come. I bought my Toyota with the idea that I would have a care that is free from trouble for a long time.

9th Apr 2004, 17:38

This is to inform all who may have seen my entry of a week ago regarding the apparent failure of all the power-windows except the driver's window. Well I'm 80 now and not too sharp. It turns out there is a button near the window switches that I was unaware of. I learned that it is there for child safety reasons. All is well now. I guess I'm like s lot of others and didn't get around to reading the manual -- but I sure did learn where all the fuses were. Good luck to all you Camry owners out there.

20th May 2004, 14:39

We own a 2000 Camry CE, we purchased it brand new in Sept of 2000. I have always boasted about how much I like my Toyota, at 55,000 miles (we are very faithful at changing our oil and doing maintenance) the check engine light went on. The codes Po440, PO441, PO446 were diagnosed by the local Toyota dealer. They told us our gas cap did not hold a seal anymore and it should be replaced. After the diagnostic fee and the gas cap $109.11 the check engine light went out for 1.5 days, the codes remained the same, but now we are told the problem is with our Charcoal Canister Sensor, this needs to be replaced, After reading some of the comments I am concerned! Has anyone else encountered this problem? Toyota says we are out of warranty?

21st Jun 2004, 12:49

To the person with the $400 + O2 sensor change. I have a 1989 Pontiac Firebird (really reliable despite what you are all probably thinking) and I had to have my 02 sensor changed (just cause of high mileag, no light or problems). I suggest you go to an independent (but good) mechanic. The cost would probably be at least $200 cheaper han the dealers.

18th Aug 2004, 06:03

I have a 1999 Toyota Camry, purchased from a used car dealer with 51000 miles on it. Now it has about 90000 miles after 18 months since I drive on highways.

Past January it had a check engine light and I called the Toyota dealer. He suggested me to tighten the gas cap, which I did and the check engine light was gone. After about a month the check engine light came back, this time it was due to the bad right rear light bulb. I replace it and the light was gone. Again it came back after two months. This time the rear left light bulb was blown. I replaced it and the check engine light saw gone. Yesterday I changed the engine oil and the oil filter. This morning it has check engine light. Any suggestions please?

3rd Sep 2004, 09:33

I have a 1999 Toyota Camry LE 4cl and I can identify with a lot of the previous posts. The car had been essentially perfect till 77,000 miles. While driving down the freeway the engine shuttered to a stop and wouldn't start. After checking the engine I found antifreeze running from under the timing belt cover. The dealership replaced the timing belt and water pump under the extended warranty. they said the water pump failed and caused the timing belt to go also. They also replaced the valve seals under warranty, to address a blue smoke from the tail pipe after startup concern. The extended warranty also covered the tow truck and car rental as well. So far, so good.

Two months later after filling with fuel the check engine light came on. After a trip to Autozone and after a new gas gap the light was off. A few miles later the light is back on. I went to the dealer and say the code indicates a bad gas cap. $60 later with a OEM gas cap I am on my way. The next day the check engine light is back on. A test of the gas caps at the vehicle emissions inspection shop showed that both Autozone's as well as Toyota's new OEM gas cap are bad, so it back to the dealer. After another visit to the dealer, I get another gas cap. However 14 miles later the check engine light is back on. Autozone's diagnostic tester still shows it is the same evaporative emissions gas cap code. I am at a loss, is it the $400 charcoal canister, the vacumm switching valve or something else? I can't find the location of the charcoal cannister. Any help is appreciated.

I also don't understand why this problem is not covered under the 100,000 mile federal emissions warranty.

Previously the dealer did replace the drivers rear seat belt that wouldn't retract, under warranty.

Lastly, the driver door electric lock button will not always lock. The alarm will set with the keyfob, but you can open the door from the exterior (which sets off the alarm). The dealer says that a new lock mechanism is $350+ so I am being sure to manually lock this door before setting the alarm.