Faults:

Check engine light on forever.

General Comments:

Valve change expensive. Dealers some times don't know how to fix this car.

Faults:

MAF sensor gets dirty, causes hesitation.

Fuel air sensor had to be replaced at 70k.

Driver's side door panel & seat were dented because the seat belt wedged between when I closed the door. (passenger side has place to store the belt buckle, but driver's side doesn't).

General Comments:

70k miles on it & is still strong, feels tight. No noticeable rattles or looseness, & everything works.

This car definitely likes to be revved. There's no other way to to drive it if you don't like sluggishness.

I even have to rev to get it into 1st gear, or it bogs down at takeoff. It's a little embarrassing in town because everyone thinks I want to race all the time.

It handles & brakes exceptionally well, no matter the conditions, & is great fun on tight mountain roads.

It is very smooth at speed, & always has more to give in the way of power without compromising handling.

Suspension-wise, it's a bit stiff, especially on bad road surfaces, & there is considerable road noise.

Visibility to the rear is very poor on this car, especially with the spoiler & requires extra caution, but you get used to it over time.

I find the seats to be very comfortable (for two), & driving over long distances not a problem.

Overall, I still love this car after 10 yrs of driving.

It's been very reliable (I have it serviced per dealer's specs) & I never have to worry.

Faults:

Needed a new water pump in 2006.

Needed a new A/C condenser summer of 2009.

My check engine light has been on for 3 years. No one can figure out what's wrong with it.

It has thrown codes for my O2 sensors, VVT (bank 1), idle control malfunction, and manufacturer control ignition system or misfire. It idles rough from time to time, bouncing from 0-1000 rpms then back and forth, then eventually leveling out.

At first it was once in awhile, now it's often and no one can tell me what it is. I have heard it was my computer, then my oil and the pressure valve, then my O2 sensors, etc. I would just love to know what's wrong with it so I can fix it, because I love my car!

I blew my 1st engine two years ago, and as soon as I had the rebuilt one from Carquest put in, the check engine light was back on in the first week.

Faults:

I bought my Toyota Celica GT in April of 2000 brand new with 17 miles on it. This is my 3rd Celica, previously owning a 93, 94 and the 2000.

First, I love this car, it has never left me stranded -- ever! Today it has 161000 miles and most of these were hard miles, lots of stop and go, city, etc.

The only problem I ever had from the day I bought it until it hit 140k, was an air bubble in the coolant line or something that caused the heater to run cold at stop lights, and then it would get warm again on acceleration. However, this was after I had to coolant flushed for the 60k service, and the dealer said it was their fault because they did not properly burp the system.

At about 100k, I did notice that it would idle rough on occasion, and the dealer could never figure out why it only does it once in a while.

Then the check engine light came on, so I took it in 2 times and they could not figure it out.

The third time they said I had a crack in the intake manifold. They fixed it for almost $1000 and the light went off for another month. Then it came on again and I did not go back to the dealer, and before I knew it, it went off again on its own??? Then it came back on 4 months later.

I just bought a new car, but am planning to keep it so long as it passes emissions. Does anyone know how to reset the check engine light? Also, where is the MAF sensor on the GT engine?

General Comments:

Overall, it has been an extremely reliable car.

I hear the GTS engines have some problems, maybe the GT engines are better -- they also use the GT engine in the 04-08 Corolla and they have excellent reliability ratings?!